JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 96 less pronounced for castor and sunfl ower oils, while it is more pronounced for coconut and jojoba oils. In the case of castor oil at concentrations ranging from 40-80 w/w%, the softening point values between 62.5 ± 0.5°C and 57.3 ± 0.3°C can be measured in the same concentration range, the softening point values for jojoba oil are between 61.3 ± 0.3°C and 42.5 ± 0.5°C (Figure 1). Similarly for the drop point, the presence of oil at higher concentrations leads to lower drop point values. The effect of caster oil concentration on the drop points’ changes appears to be the smallest among the oils examined in the pres- ent study (Figure 2). In evaluating the hardness of compositions, it can be concluded that between 40 and 60 w/w% oil content, stick bases formulated with castor oil are the hardest, Figure 2. Drop points determined for oily samples composed of 5 w/w% glycerol, 5 w/w% lanolin, and 40–80 w/w% appropriate oil (sunfl ower, castor, jojoba, or coconut) the rest was yellow beeswax. n=3. Figure 1. Softening points determined for oily samples composed of 5 w/w% glycerol, 5 w/w% lanolin, and 40–80 w/w% appropriate oil (sunfl ower, castor, jojoba, or coconut) the rest was yellow beeswax. n=3.
NATURAL OILS AND WAXES IN STICK BASES 97 while sticks prepared with coconut oil are less so (Figure 3). Interestingly, the oils with different origins do not result in different compression strength values in the case of 70 w/w% oil content (Figure 3). It worth noting that for compositions with 80 w/w% oil and above, compression strength cannot be determined due to the soft consistency of the compositions. On the basis of our organoleptic examination, the taste of castor oil is unpleasant, while better experiences were obtained with jojoba oil. In the case of jojoba oil, the composi- tions containing relatively high amounts of oil (70–80 w/w%) were too soft and resulted in physically uncomfortable stick application. The use of waxes in stick compositions most commonly results in improved parameters from the aspect of application. In the present study two waxes were evaluated (Table I, Figures 4–6). Figure 3. Compression strengths determined for oily samples composed of 5 w/w% glycerol, 5 w/w% lano- lin, and 40–80 w/w% appropriate oil (sunfl ower, castor, jojoba, or coconut) the rest was yellow beeswax. n=3. Figure 4. Softening points determined for wax samples composed of 5 w/w% glycerol, 5 w/w% lanolin, 60 w/w% sunfl ower oil, and 0–5 w/w% appropriate wax (carnauba or candelilla) the rest was yellow beeswax. n=3.
Previous Page Next Page