SKIN-AGING AND INFLAMMAGING TREATMENT 331 nonelastic niosomal gel formulation of gallic acid to enhance both its stability and skin penetration. An in vivo study was conducted to assess skin irritation effects via closed patch tests and evaluate antiaging effects based on skin elasticity, hydration, erythema, and pigmentation. The results indicated that niosomal formulation enhanced the stabil- ity and antiaging effi cacy of gallic acid (Supplementary Table 1). In another study, Gupta et al. (96) developed liposomes, niosomes, and curcumin–phosphatidyl choline (phy- tovesicles) vesicles to enhance curcumin topical bioavailability. They found that vesicular systems improved antiaging effects and phytovesicles were the most effective (Supple- mentary Table 1). Pro niosome, Ethosome, and Transfersome. Pro niosomes are fl owable, dry formulations composed of surfactant-coated carriers, which form multilamellar niosomes on hydration (97). Proniosomes have been developed to overcome niosomes’ drawbacks, such as aggre- gation and leaking (97). Pro tection of coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) against photoaging is related to its antioxidant ef- fi cacy. Yet, its lipophilicity and high molecular weight hinder its topical applications (98). Yadav et al. (99) developed proniosomal formulation of CoQ10 to solve these prob- lems as listed in Supplementary Table 1. An in vivo study exposed the skin to UV radia- tion followed by a 4-week formulation application, assessing skin sagging via a pinch test visually for wrinkles, striation, and infl ammation. The study showed that pronisomes could be an effi cient way to deliver CoQ10 (99). Eth anol is an effi cient permeation enhancer. When added in 20–50% to phospholipid, it yields an elastic nanovesicular system known as ethosome (100). The improved penetra- tion of ethosome over liposome is because of ethosomes’ interaction with skin lipids. It has been hypothesized that ethanol reduces transition temperature, fl uidity, and density of skin lipids, causing deeper penetration of cosmeceutical agents into skin layers (100). Tra nsfersomes are bilayered, deformable vesicles formed by phospholipids, ethanol, and surfactants. Transfersomes penetrate SC because of their fl exibility and ability to squeeze between intracellular lipids. Moreover, the skin hydration gradient permits further vesi- cle penetration into deeper hydrated layers (101). Kau r et al. (102) encapsulated curcuminoids extract in liposomes, ethosomes, and trans- fersomes to evaluate their photoprotection and skin hydration effects. The study showed improvement in skin characteristics, indicating enhanced penetration and photoprotec- tion effects (Supplementary Table 1). Sar af et al. (103) developed curcuminoid-loaded transfersomes formulation for antiwrin- kle treatment, which was incorporated into cream and evaluated for their irritation. Fur- thermore, antiwrinkle effects were assessed by measuring skin elasticity of six female volunteers. Results revealed increased skin deposition with enhanced skin elasticity and fi rmness (Supplementary Table 1). Sol id Lipid Nanoparticles (SLNs) and Nanostructured Lipid Carriers (NLCs). In 1991, SLNs were introduced as a substitute for other colloidal carriers. They are a carrier system consisting of a solid core (lipid with a high melting point) and an aqueous surfactant coat (104). Solid lipids constitute about 0.1–30% w/w, whereas surfactant constitutes 0.5–5% to enhance stability. Particle size, drug encapsulation, stability, and release are infl uenced by the types of lipids and surfactants (105). For better stability and loading capacity, NLCs were produced, which are modifi ed SLNs consisting of solid and liquid fats (105).

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 332 Far boud et al. (106) formulated SLNs as an effi cient carrier of CoQ10 to enhance its stabil- ity. It was then incorporated into oil/water cream to improve skin hydration. A double- blind clinical study was conducted among 25 females to assess antiaging effects of developed formulations. Skin hydration and elasticity assessment confi rmed enhanced penetration, and antiwrinkle and antiaging effects (Supplementary Table 1) (106). In another study, Yue et al. (107) developed CoQ10-loaded NLCs to enhance their anti- oxidant effect on photoaged skin (107). The protective effect of CoQ10-loaded NLCs was enhanced compared with emulsion formulation, indicated by UV-irradiated fi broblast viability and inhibition of lipid peroxidation. The in vivo study showed better SC penetra- tion and dermal accumulation with the NLC formulation compared with emulsion (Sup- plementary Table 1) (107). Ret inaldehyde, a precursor of retinoic acid, is a useful photoaging treatment. Moreover, retinaldehyde is less irritating to the skin on topical application (108). Nayak et al. (109) coloaded retinaldehyde and CoQ10 in NLCs to improve their photoaging treatment. An ex vivo study showed a negligible permeation but greater accumulation in skin layers (109). A wrinkle model induced by UV was developed in mice and demonstrated effec- tiveness of coloaded NLCs as antiwrinkle treatment (109). COS METIC ACTIVES AND ANTIAGING PROPERTIES Vit amin C, vitamin E, polyphenols, green tea, silymarin, and others are known for their antioxidant potentials (110). The skin antiaging effect of green tea compounds (catechin and (-) epigallocatechin gallate) were investigated on human dermal fi broblasts. Results demonstrated that (-) epigallocatechin gallate enhanced the cell viability and has dose- dependent antioxidant activity. Furthermore, (-)-epigallocatechin gallate decreased MMP expression and other infl ammatory signaling pathways (111). Mammon e et al. (112) investigated different plant extracts and discovered that Dianella ensifolia extract has antioxidant potential and decreases skin hyperpigmentation. This extract contained (1-(2,4-dihydrophenyl)-3-(2,4-dimethoxy-3-methylphenyl) propane) which inhibits free radical and lipid oxidation induced by UV. Moreover, the reduction in skin discoloration was clinically assessed in human volunteers. Results showed that topical formulation contained extracted compound the increased the rate of tan fading compared with hydroquinone formulations (112). Differ ent traditional dosage formulas involved different antiaging mechanisms, includ- ing anti-infl ammatory antioxidant properties, increase in skin barrier strength, rejuvena- tion, and others (113). Sundaram et al. (114) designed an antiaging cream that consisted of the extract of Aegle marmelos fruit pulps, Nyctanthes arbor-tristis leaves, and the terminal meristem of Musa paradisiaca fl owers. The formula was evaluated for its antioxidant and anti-elastase activity, and results proved the herbal cream was a strong candidate for an- tiaging (114). Vitami n E protects against UV-induced hyperpigmentation, whereas vitamin C reduces the production of melanin (115,116). Raspberry reduces loss of transepidermal water and enhances gene expression that allows for hydration and moisturization of the skin via hyaluronic acid synthesis. A randomized controlled study by Rattanawiwatpong et al. (117) among 50 Thai females with Fitzpatrick skin type III or IV evaluated the synergistic,