
J. Cosmet. Sci., 71, 399–410 (November/December 2020) 399 Objective Methods for Quantifying Color Retention and Bleeding Potential of a Lipstick Through Large-Scale Panel Perception and Controlled Usability Studies DI QU, ALYSSA JOHNCOCK, and JIANWEI LIU , Amway Innovation and Science, Ada, MI (D.Q.), (A.J.), Amway Innovation and Science – East Hub, Shanghai, 201203 China (J.L.) Accepted for publication June 17, 2020 . Synopsis Color retention and bleeding are two properties of lipstick performance which impact consumer acceptability and preference. Before now, the claims of long-wear and non-bleeding had yet to be meaningfully substantiated quantitatively. Lack of objectively defi ned parameters and measurement methods inhibits one’s ability of obtaining adequate claims support. In this study, we designed a 30-member, controlled-usability study to develop methods that quantify color retention and bleeding potential. Image analysis methods were used to measure lip color properties at the time points of baseline, immediate after application, and 8 hours of wear. Large-scale panel perception studies were conducted to obtain consumer acceptability criteria and establish consumer relevance of the objectively measured parameters. Our results show that the methods developed can quantitatively describe the color properties. Eight hours after application, the mean levels of color retention and bleeding potential for this specifi c lip color were 82.67% and 2.43, respectively. The results of panel perception studies helped establish threshold values for lip color performance acceptability, that is, if a color retention level was lower than 82.7%, or a bleeding potential level was higher than 2.37, the performance would not be deemed acceptable. The methods and results reported here serve as a useful tool for the evaluation of lip color performance in future development of quality lip color formulations. INTRODUCTION The global lipstick market was worth $12 billion in 2018 and was expected to reach $17 billion by 2024 according to a 2019 report (1). Lipstick has been used for nearly fi ve thousand years as a way to enhance the texture of the lips, provide protection from the environment, and create an overall radiant facial appearance (2). The cultural, psycho- logical, and sociological implications of lipstick use have been well documented (3–7). Phenomena of consumer lipstick purchasing behavior have also been studied. In a recent report, Zhi-xuani et al. (8) researched factors infl uencing lipstick purchases among Chinese female college students. It was concluded that the types of beauty products purchased were signifi cantly affected by multiple psychological factors including their beauty- and Address all correspondence to Di Qu at di.qu@amway.com.
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