Table IV Summary of FRM Substantivities Ethnicity Damage group Average Substantivity (%) Sulfurol Geranyl acetate Isoeugenol Gamma undecalactone Tonalide T0 T24 T0 T24 T0 T24 T0 T24 T0 T24 African Virgin 12.728 ± 1.711 3.371 ± 0.396 2.907 ± 0.390 0.904 ± 0.137 3.486 ± 0.948 0.756 ± 0.044 2.968 ± 0.168 2.240 ± 0.127 4.101 ± 0.767 2.179 ± 0.220 Straightened 23.081 ± 2.285 4.407 ± 0.616 4.452 ± 0.407 1.289 ± 0.101 5.088 ± 1.876 1.655 ± 0.516 6.414 ± 1.803 3.205 ± 0.132 4.663 ± 0.597 2.339 ± 0.189 Straightened + thermally damaged 12.374 ± 2.210 4.145 ± 1.419 2.482 ± 0.284 1.135 ± 0.130 1.763 ± 1.731 2.162 ± 0.280 4.370 ± 0.619 2.816 ± 0.936 3.622 ± 0.452 1.991 ± 0.352 Straightened + bleached 10.609 ± 1.276 0.987 ± 0.451 2.599 ± 0.452 1.457 ± 0.168 4.604 ± 0.750 0.379 ± 0.202 4.872 ± 0.560 3.548 ± 0.431 2.356 ± 0.518 1.461 ± 0.136 Asian Virgin 17.010 ± 0.981 5.444 ± 0.248 5.224 ± 0.710 1.401 ± 0.191 3.385 ± 1.548 1.145 ± 0.037 4.613 ± 1.248 2.800 ± 0.249 5.321 ± 0.605 2.068 ± 0.231 Straightened 22.494 ± 5.361 9.333 ± 0.376 5.575 ± 1.422 1.721 ± 0.195 5.633 ± 1.823 3.264 ± 0.693 5.891 ± 0.787 4.532 ± 0.424 5.560 ± 1.535 2.906 ± 0.277 Straightened + thermally damaged 13.864 ± 2.296 6.682 ± 1.137 3.686 ± 0.863 1.383 ± 0.133 3.459 ± 0.890 2.465 ± 0.507 4.076 ± 1.211 3.561 ± 0.674 3.280 ± 1.200 2.008 ± 0.338 Straightened + bleached 13.580 ± 0.390 2.989 ± 0.892 4.476 ± 0.631 2.114 ± 0.271 1.934 ± 0.753 3.014 ± 0.856 5.954 ± 1.460 4.163 ± 0.258 2.904 ± 0.534 2.159 ± 0.078 Caucasian Virgin 16.562 ± 0.979 8.055 ± 1.097 3.434 ± 0.428 1.972 ± 0.200 2.419 ± 0.746 2.280 ± 0.321 3.485 ± 1.038 3.266 ± 0.992 5.745 ± 0.169 4.232 ± 0.256 Straightened 19.818 ± 3.718 9.038 ± 1.825 4.388 ± 1.770 3.216 ± 1.844 6.369 ± 0.916 5.223 ± 1.806 6.333 ± 0.474 3.138 ± 1.580 5.684 ± 0.251 4.143 ± 1.258 Straightened + thermally damaged 13.284 ± 4.307 6.907 ± 1.108 2.680 ± 0.247 2.094 ± 0.340 3.446 ± 0.753 3.303 ± 0.417 4.508 ± 0.745 4.176 ± 0.647 5.546 ± 0.446 3.136 ± 0.423 Straightened + bleached 12.801 ± 0.991 1.185 ± 0.303 2.989 ± 0.374 1.382 ± 0.172 5.310 ± 0.498 1.464 ± 0.176 4.604 ± 1.007 3.615 ± 0.607 3.085 ± 0.071 1.820 ± 0.030 749 INFLUENCE OF ETHNICITY AND DAMAGE LEVELS
750 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE and bleached or to the group with hair that was straightened and thermally damaged. This implies that a certain level of damage contributed to a higher retention of fragrance on hair fibers. Considering the influence of ethnicity on the fragrance substantivity on hair, it was cumbersome to infer a global tendency as compared to the other factors. However, among the three ethnicities, on dry conditions, Caucasian hair presented the highest substantivities for virgin, straightened, and straightened and thermally damaged groups, while Asian hair showed similar behavior for straightened and bleached hair for all the tested FRMs. Table VI Substantivity of Sulfurol Versus Hair Swelling Ethinic group Group of damage Substantivity of sulfurol at T0 (%) Diameter variation (%) African Virgin 12.728 ± 1.711 9.07 ± 1.30 Straightened 23.081 ± 2.285 12.55 ± 2.20 Straightened + Thermal Damaged 12.374 ± 2.210 7.33 ± 1.76 Straightened + Bleached 10.609 ± 1.276 19.98 ± 3.62 Asian Virgin 17.010 ± 0.981 8.85 ± 1.01 Straightened 22.494 ± 5.361 12.32 ± 2.53 Straightened + Thermal Damaged 13.864 ± 2.296 5.02 ± 1.98 Straightened + Bleached 13.580 ± 0.390 23.09 ± 6.30 Caucasian Virgin 16.562 ± 0.979 9.18 ± 1.26 Straightened 19.818 ± 3.718 12.35 ± 1.97 Straightened + Thermal Damaged 13.284 ± 4.307 6.01 ± 1.38 Straightened + Bleached 12.801 ± 0.991 18.30 ± 2.42 Table V Substantivity Differences Between T0 and T24 h Ethinic group Group of damage Sulfurol Gamma undecalactone Absolute difference Relative difference (%) Absolute difference Relative difference (%) African Virgin 9.358 73.516 0.727 24.500 Straightened 18.674 80.905 3.209 50.024 Straightened + Thermal Damaged 8.228 66.498 1.554 35.569 Straightened + Bleached 9.622 90.694 1.323 27.163 Asian Virgin 11.565 67.992 1.813 39.298 Straightened 13.160 58.507 1.359 23.075 Straightened + Thermal Damaged 7.182 51.802 0.515 12.642 Straightened + Bleached 10.591 77.991 1.790 30.071 Caucasian Virgin 8.508 51.368 0.219 6.281 Straightened 10.781 54.396 3.196 50.455 Straightened + Thermal Damaged 6.377 48.004 0.331 7.348 Straightened + Bleached 11.616 90.742 0.988 21.468 Bold numbers represent significant differences between substantivities in T0 and T24 (p 0.05).
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