751 INFLUENCE OF ETHNICITY AND DAMAGE LEVELS CONCLUSIONS All the evaluated factors showed some degree of influence on the FRMs substantivity on hair. The polarity of FRMs can affect their distribution in surfactant systems, which are generally used in cosmetics for hair care, such as shampoo formulations, influencing their availability and interaction with the hair fibers. The level of hair damage was also an important factor influencing FRMs substantivity on hair, with high damage levels resulting in smaller sulfurol substantivities on hair fibers, and intermediate levels of damage resulting in the highest substantivities observed for all FRMs apart from ethnicity. The influence of hair ethnicity on FRM substantivity was more relevant for dry hair than wet hair, with Caucasian or Asian hair presenting the highest substantivities in this condition depending on the damage group. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The authors would like to thank Symrise’s support for this project. AJM is thankful for the support provided by grants from the Brazilian Agency São Paulo Research Foundation (FAPESP, Brazil, process 2018/07978-0). REFERENCES (1) A. McDougall, The future of haircare, styling & colour: 2020. Global annual review: what’s now and what’s next for the haircare market. Mintel (2020), accessed July 13, 2021, https://clients.mintel.com/ report/the-future-of-haircare-styling-colour-2020. (2) Mintel, Hábitos do consumidor de produtos de Beleza – Brasil – Fevereiro 2021. Atributos mais importantes em produtos de beleza e cuidados pessoais. Mintel (2021), accessed September 15, 2021, https://reports.mintel.com/display/1041707/?fromSearch=%3Ffreetext%3Dhabitos%2520do%2520consu midor%2520brasil&resultPosition=6. (3) R. Di Gesu, A year of innovation in haircare, 2020 (2020), accessed July 23, 2021, https://clients.mintel. com/report/a-year-of-innovation-in-haircare-2020. (4) K. Takada, A. Nakamura, N. Matsuo, A. Inoue, K. Someya, and H. Shimogaki, Influence of oxidative and/or reductive treatment on human hair (I): Analysis of hair-damage after oxidative and/or reductive treatment. J. Oleo. Sci., 52(10), 541–548 (2003). (5) A. C. Nogueira, A. K. Nakano, and I. Joekes, Impairment of hair mechanical properties by sun exposure and bleaching treatments. J. Cosmet. Sci., 55(6), 533–537 (2004). (6) R. D. Sinclair. Healthy hair: What is it? J. Invest Dermatol, 12(2), 2–5 (2007). (7) C. R. Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair. 5th Ed. Springer, New York, 2012. (8) A. Medice, C. Lourenço, R. Gasparin, A. Nakano, and A. J. Marsaioli. Fragrance retention in virgin and bleached caucasian hair. J. Cosmet. Sci., 69(5), 363–370 (2018). (9) J. Strassburger and M. M. Breuer, Quantitative Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy of oxidized hair. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 36(1), 61–74 (1985). (10) M. Joy and D. M. Lewis, The use of Fourier transform infra-red spectroscopy in the study of the surface chemistry of hair fibres. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 13(5), 249–261 (1991). (11) K. S. Kim and H. K. Park, Analysis of aging effects on chemical property of human hair by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. Skin Res. Technol., 19(1), e325–331. (2013). (12) A. J. Grosvenor, S. Deb-Choudhury, P. G. Middlewood, A. Thomas, E. Lee, J. A. Vernon, J. L. Woods, C. Taylor, F. I. Bell, and S. Clerens, The physical and chemical disruption of human hair after
752 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE bleaching – studies by transmission electron microscopy and redox proteomics. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 40(6), 536–548 (2018). (13) K. Kizawa, T. Inoue, M. Yamaguchi, P. Kleinert, H. Troxler, C. W. Heizmann, and Y. Iwamoto, Dissimilar effect of perming and bleaching treatments on cuticles: Advanced hair damage model based on elution and oxidation of S100A3 protein. J. Cosmet. Sci., 56(4), 219–226 (2005). (14) S. B. Ruetsch and Y. K. Kamath, Effects of thermal treatments with a curling iron on hair fiber. J. Cosmet. Sci., 55(1), 13–27 (2004). (15) S. Herman, Fragrance in emulsion and surfactant systems. Cosmetics & Toiletries, 121(4), 59–67 (2006). (16) J. M. Blakeway, P. Bourdon, and M. Seu, Studies of perfume solubilisation. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 1(1), 1–15 (1979).
Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown) From: SCC Media Library & Resource Center (library.scconline.org)