68 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Table I Plant-Based Sources Used in Cosmetics Sources Bioactive ingredients Therapeutic value/s Reference Turmeric Curcuminoids Moisturizing Antioxidant (83) Aloe vera Phenolic Vitamins Sugars Anthraquinones Moisturizing Anti-inflammatory (88) (87) Papaya peel Vitamin A Moisturizing Smoothness Lightening, restore, rebuild damage skin (105) Palm oil Tocopherol Tocotrienol Vitamin E Antioxidant Emollient Moisturizing (32) (31) (86) Shea butter Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin F Moisturizing Emollient Anti-inflammatory Restore skin (24) (11). Mango butter Tocopherol Triterpenes Phytosterol Vitamin E Moisturizing Anti-inflammatory Skin rejuvenating (85) Cocoa butter Vitamin E Vitamin F Palmitic acid Linoleic acid Antioxidant Anti-inflammatory moisturizing Smoothness (32,66) (89,109) (108) Avocado oil Pumpkin seeds Phytosterols Fatty acids Moisturizing Antioxidant Anti-inflammatory (90) (66) (89) Comfrey root Allantoin Moisturizing Keratolytic (91) Sweet potato Hyaluronic acid Moisturizing Skin rejuvenating (17) (16) Cucumber Vitamin C Cucurbitacin Moisturizing Skin rejuvenating (92) (93) (94) (95) Sweet almond oil α-tocopherol Vitamin A Vitamin E Unsaturated fatty acids Moisturizing Smoothness (38) (39) (37) (97) (96) C asiatica Centelloid Flavonoid Phytosterols Moisturizing Anti-inflammatory Skin regeneration (98) Calendula flowers Essential oil Fatty acids Tocopherol Moisturizing Skin regeneration (99) (100) Jojoba oil Sunflower seed oil Argan oil Fatty acids Linoleic acid Moisturizing Antioxidant (101) (90)

69 NATURAL ACTIVE INGREDIENTS AND SKIN HYDRATION HYALURONIC ACID IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS AND SKIN HYDRATION Hyaluronic acid (HA) is an anionic, nonsulfated glycosaminoglycan scattered widely throughout epithelial, connective, and neutral tissues (14). HA can be found in plants and animals (15). HA is also a main component of the skin, where it is involved in tissue repair. HA is abundant in the extracellular matrices of skin. Cosmetic formulations containing HA have been found to moisturize the skin (15). HA is the active ingredient for many moisturizing, protecting, and anti-aging products (16). It was reported that Estée Lauder™ (The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., New York) was the first to apply animal HA in cosmetics. The effectiveness of using HA in cosmetics is further supported in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, which indicates that formulations containing 0.1% HA resulted in significant improvement of skin hydration and elasticity (17). A study by Olejnik et al. (16) stated that HA acts by forming a film on the surface of the epidermis (the SC), and it prevents TEWL. In cosmetic formulations, HA also works as a potent humectant, or a moisturizing agent. This is a category of skin-care ingredients that attracts water to the skin, increases the water content of the SC, and keeps the cosmetic formulation from becoming dry (11). C asiatica extract also was found to inhibit the enzymatic action of hyaluronidase it demonstrated potent inhibitory effects for elastase and hyaluronidase (12). A study by Milani and Sparavigna (12) showed that the inhibition activity for Table II Animal- and Marine-Based Sources Used in Cosmetics Sources Bioactive ingredients Therapeutic value/s Reference Snail secretion Hyaluronic acid Moisturizing Skin rejuvenating (17) (16) Algae Marine polysaccharides Vitamins Alginates Unsaturated fatty acids Moisturizing Antioxidant Restore damaged skin (3) (63) (49) Microalgae Hyaluronic acid Exopolysachharides Biopolymers (65) (19) (64) (67) Shark fish (oil and cartilage) Fatty acids Squalene Squalene Collagen Peptides Moisturizing Anti-inflammatory Antioxidant (74) (68) (69) (73) (63) Hydras Vitamin C Vitamin E Antioxidant Emollient (63) Fish (scales/bone/ cartilage/muscle) Collagen Peptides Antioxidant Chondroitin Sulphate Skin regeneration Improve skin barriers Antioxidant (75) (102) (106) (76) (77) Sea cucumber Jellyfish Cuttlefish Sea urchin Collagen Moisturizing Rebuild damaged skin Improve skin barriers (107) (58) (103) (104) Starfish Collagen Moisturizing Antioxidant Anti-aging (57)