SURFACE-ACTIVE AGENTS powder seldom utilize surface-active agents. The important exceptions include powdered detergents and bubble bath items. Yet surface- active agents occasionally have some properties, such as solubilizing ac- tion on dyes and dispersing action for pigments, or antifoam action, that indicate potential value in the production stages. It is generally a case of balancing desirable against unwanted properties. No one product can have all the properties desired by all chemists, even for a specified end usage. That is, incidentally, one reason why there is the trend toward syn- ergistic combinations. It is evident that the cosmetic chemist must not only work with surface-active agents but also must choose those most likely to work for him.' Dermato- logic aspects, as evidenced by patch tests on raw material as well as finished product, are one of his most important guides. Classifications of surface-active agents by chemical structure and by major fields of usage (e.g., emulsifier, detergent, etc.) further serve as a means of selecting logical agents with which to work. And last, but not least, articles in the scientific literature as well as the suggestions on formulation fur- nished by suppliers of cosmetic raw materials can often be of real help on specific problems. BIB LIOGKAPHY (1) .Adam, N. K., "The Physics and Chem- istry of Surfaces," Clarendon Press, Oxford, 3rd Edition (1941). (2) Beeler, E. C., "Hydrophilic Ointments IN COSMETICS 353 and Bases," Bull. Natl. Formulary Comm., 10, Nos. 8 and 9 (1943). (3) Benaglia, A. E., Robinson, E. J., Utley, E., and Cleverdon, M. A., "The Chronic Toxicity of Aerosol OT," •e. Ind. hryg. Tox., 25, 175 (1941). (4) Cuppies, H. L., "List of Commercially Available Wetting, Dispersing and Emulsifying Agents," U. S. Dept. Age., Bur. Ent. & Plant Quarantine, Bull. E-504 (June, 1940). (5) deNavarre, M. G., "The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics," D. Van Nostrand Co., New York (1941). (6) Dodd, M. C., Hartmann, F. W., and Ward, W. C., "Surface Active Agents as Ointment Bases," y. /Im. Ph. /I., Sci. Ed., 35, 33 (1946). (7) Dueruling, W. W., "Wetting Agents. New Synthetic Chemicals of Use in Finer and More Efficient Dermatologi- cal Therapy," zlrch. Dermatol. Syphilol., 43, 264: (1941). (8) Duefee, G. R., "Skin Irritation Studies on Selected Subjects," ]roe. Sei. Sec. Toilet Goods ./tssn., No. 7 (May 16, 1947). (9) Goldsmith, H. A., "Polyhydric Alcohol Esters of Fatty Acids. Their Prepara- tion, Properties and Uses," Chem. Rev., 33, 257 (1943). (10) Harris, J. C., "Shampoo Formulation," /Ira. ]erfumer & Essent. Oil Rev., 48, 54 (Nov.) 71 (Dec.) (1946). (11) Hermann, F., Sulzberger, M. B., and Baer, R. L., "New Penetrating Ve- hicles and Solvents," Science, 96, 451 (1942). (12) Hilfer, H., "Soapless Detergents," Drug & Cosmetic Ind., 58, 646 (1946). (13) Hollenberg, I. R., "Emulsion Tech- nology," Ibid., 59, 340 (Sept.) 644 (Nov.) (1946). (14) Lane, C. G., and Blank, I. H., y..//m Med./Issoc., 118, 804 (194:2). (15) Macias-Sarria, J., "Sodium Lauryl Sul- fate as an Emulsifier,"/Im. ]etfumer & Essent. OilRev., 48, 61 (1946). (16) McCutcheon, J. W., "Detergents. Syn- thetic rs. Soap," Soap & San. Chem., 37, 3742 (Sept., 1946). (17) McCutcheon, J. W., "Synthetic Deter- gents. Main Types, Uses, Properties and Prospects," Chem. Indus., 61, 811-24, (Nov., 1947). (18) "Medicinal Uses of Soap," edited by Dr. Morris Fishbein, J.P. Lippincott Co., Philadelphia (19'[6). (19) Schwartz, L., "Protective Ointments and Industrial Cleansers," Medical Clinics of North America, 1195 (July 1942). (20) Schwartz, L., and Peck, S. M., "Cos-

354 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS metlcs and Dermatitis," Paul B. Hoeber, New York (1946). (21) Smyth, H. F., Jr., Seaton, J., and Fischer, L., "Some Pharmacological Properties of the 'Tergitol' Pene- rrants," y. Ind. Hyg., 23, 478 (1941). (22) Smyth, H. F., Jr., Seaton, .L, and Fischer, L., "The Single Dose Toxicity of Some Glycols and Derivatives," ?. Ind. Hyg. & Toxicol., 23, 259 (1941). (23) Speel, H. C., "Surface-Active Agents, Chemical Types and Applications," ?. Invest. Derrn., 6, 293 (1945). (24) Stassel, E., "Fatty Alcohols," Soap & San Chem., 38 (Aug., 1945). ' (25) "Textile Chemical Specialty Guide," Textile Book Publishers, New York. Issued annually. (26) "The Chemistry of Fatty Acids," Armour & Co., Chem. Div., Chicago (1947). (27) Tomlinson, K., "The Design of Surface Active Molecules," Mfg. Chem. & M'fg. Perf., 15, 249 (1944). (28) Van Antwerpen, F. J., "Surface Active Agents Manufactured in America and Commercially Available," In. En. Chem., 35, 126 (1943). (29) ,,W•akeman, R. L., and Well, B. H., 'ABC of Chemical Derivatives from Petroleum," Natl. Petroleum News, R-161 (April 7, 1943). (30) Young, C. B. F., and Koons, K. N., "Surface Active Agents," Chemical Publishing Co., Brooklyn (1945).