HYDROPHILIC BEESWAX DERIVATIVES By P. J. CARTER and W. C. GRiFFiN zttlas Powder Company, [4/ilmington, Del. HYDKOPHILIC BEESWAX DEKIVA- TIVES NON-IONm eMU•.S•IE•S in cosmetics have many advantages(l). However, their use has been limited to stearic acid type formulas and W/O emulsions because they did not produce good cold creams. We have developed a series of hydrophilic beeswax derivatives that overcome this deficiency. Chemically, they are a combination of polyoxyeth- ylene sorbitol and beeswax. Physi- cally, they resemble beeswax in color, feel, and odor. Because they are surface active, they may be used as the emulsifier or as a co- emulsifier in preparing soap-free or borax-type cold cream and similar products. Our study of these hydrophilic beeswax derivatives has included their formulation in cold creams and other cosmetic preparations. The emulsifier in all known cold creams, which are based on beeswax and borax, i• the sodium soap of the fatty acids contained in beeswax. By using these new beeswax deriva- tives several soap-free cold creams have been developed. • Presented at the December 8, 1949, Meet- ing, New York City. The first of these, Formula 1, is a cold cream formula (2) emulsified by one of the beeswax derivatives used in combination with poly- oxyethylene sorbitan .mønøpaImi- tate. Formula 1 Cold Cream (Soap-Free) Per Cent A Mineral Oil .................. 50 Beeswax .................... 7 Tween 40' .................. 2 G-1726 ..................... 8 B H20 ........................ 33 Preserva tire C Perfume The preparation of this type cream differs 'only slightly from that of a beeswax-borax cream in which the water phase is added to the oil phase. Best results are obtained with this type preparation when the oil phase, including the emulsifier and beeswax derivative, is melted and mixed and then added to the hot water. The creams should be hot-poured. This formula produces a soft, high gloss cream which is very smooth textured. It "peaks" well and liquefies very readily when ap- plied. It has better elevated tem- perature stability than several com- merciai creams. 362

::!?,i.i':.iAlthough beeswax has been re- •j?.Piaced entirely by the beeswax de- 5•i:!i!i(:.i'rivatives in Formula 2, it has prop- 15'•51: . erties similar to a typical cold Formula 2 % -: Cold Cream HYDROPHILIC BEESWAX DERIVATIVES Per ii:' Cent A Mineral Oil .................. 50 G-1704 ...................... 12 G-i726 ...................... 3 'i ,:•:!• :.i:: B Water ....................... 35 ' Preservative Perfume Preparation: Heat A and B to 70øC. Add B to A slowly with thorough agitation. i•-}'?:'Continue stirring while cooling. Perfume o C at 50 ß Pour. This is a fairly soft, glossy cream :=ii:i':Which "peaks" well. It liquefies very readily and has good stability at elevated temperature.. These two formulas are examples of creams in which non-ionic emul- sifiers are used in order to avoid the disadvantages of soap. However, these hydrophilic beeswax deriva- tives, like other non-ionic emulsi- tiers, are not limited to soap-free ß preparations. The third cold cream formula illustrates the use of the modified beeswax products in com- bination with soap. Formula 3 Cold Cream (Soap Type) Per Cent A Mineral Oil ................ 30.0 Beeswax ................... 12.0 G-170{ .................... 3.5 G-1725 .................... 1.5 B Water ..................... 52.0 Borax ..................... 1.0 Preservative C Perfume P•tpx•xw•os: Heat A and B to 70øC. Add B to A slowly with 'thorough agitation. Perfume at 50øC, Pour. 363 This is a soft, very smooth white cream which has excellent stability at high temperatures. It liquefies readily when applied to the skin. It "peaks" well. These cold creams were evaluated by comparison with samples of popular cold cream (see table). The creams emulsified by the non-ionic derivatives are glossy and smooth textured like most of the purchased creams. They are soft in consis- tency and "peak" very well. Only a few of the creams used for comparison had good "peak." The creams con- taining the non-ionics liquefy well about half of the test creams were non-liquefying. Water content of the test creams as determined by the Fischer titration method ranged from 10 to 35 per cent. Water con- tent of the creams containing the beeswax derivatives ranged from 30 to 50 per cent. pH was determined on the pur- chased samples. First, a 50 per cent solution of alcohol was adjusted to a pH of 7.0. Then the sample cream, at 10 per cent concentration, was dissolved in the alcohol, and the pH determined. The pH of most of the purchased creams ranged between eight and ten with about half over nine. The non-ionic creams are neutral. As purchased, only about half of the cold creams were stable. In testing samples for stability at 50øC., the creams were removed from the jars in which they were purchased and mixed well. Since they were quite soft, this was not considered improper treatment.