364 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS They were placed-in jars of uniform size and stored in a 50øC. oven for observation. Even the best of the popular cold creams separated oil or water within a week. Many of the creams containing beeswax deriva- tives were more stable than the com- mercial creams. Cold cream is one of the most easily modified creams. By adding materials such as hydrogenated vegetable oils and lanolin, emol- lient creams can be prepared. ß Formula All-Purpose Cream Per Cent A Steari½ Acid .................. 10 Lanolin ...................... 4 Beeswax ................... 2 Mineral Oil .................. 20 Tween 40' ................... 8 G-1706 ...................... 2 B Sorbo* ....................... 12 H=O ......................... 42 Preservative C Perfume PRsPXR.vr•oN': Heat A to 70øC., B to 72øC. Add B to A with agitation. Per- fumeat 50øC. Pour. Formula 4 Emollient Cream Per Cent A Beeswax ..................... 5 Lanolin ...................... 3 Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil... 25 Mineral Oil .................. '20 G-1702 ...................... 5 G-1725 ............... ' ....... 5 Antioxidant ................... B H20 ......................... 37 Preservative C Perfume PREPARATION': Heat A to 70øC., B to 72øC. Add B to A with constant agitation. Perfume at 45-50øC. Pour. This is a smooth textured, off- white cream. It has good high temperature stability. Because of its high oil content it has excellent emollient properties. All-purpose cream, which may serve as a cleanser, emollient cream, and foundation cream, is often based on cold cream. Materials which body the cream and others which add emollience are used in Formula 5 to produce the properties of an all- purpose cream. This is a glossy, off-white cream in which stearic acid is used for body- ing the cream and lanolin and Sorbo are added to give emollient prop- erties. Because of its high mineral oil content, and because it liquefies so readily, it is an excellent cleanser. When removed, it leaves a slight oil film whi6h serves as a foundation for make-up. The beeswax derivatives also find application in hand lotion: formulas. Hand lotions have high'i water content this necessitates the' inclusion of a hydrophilic material :: which will permit smooth applica-' tion.rather than a so-called "watery.. feel." The following formula is a fairly heavy white lotion which has excellent spreading properties. Formula 6 Hand Lotion i Cent A Stearic Acid ................ 2.0::i: Lanolin .................... 0.5 Span 60' .................. 2.5 i?!! G-1734 .................... 2.5 'B H•O. Preservative C Perfume PRSPX•T•ON: Heat A to 90øC., B 95øC. Add B to A with thorough agitatiom•½!il Perfume at 50øC. Continue stirring cool. Pour. ' ::'
HYDROPHILIC BEESWAX DERIVATIVES 365 This lotion applies smoothly with a minimum of water roll off. The hydrophilic beeswax &riva- :: tires retain some of the slight tacki- heSS of beeswax and because of this they are useful in formulating hair dressings such as Formula 7. '•:' Formula 7 Hair Dressing : Per Cent ß • A Mineral Oil ................ 20.0 Beeswax ................... 5.0 ::: G-1706 .................... 2.5 G-1725 .................... 2.5 B H,•O ....................... 70.0 Preservative C Perfume PV.•}'AV. Aq:•ON: Heat A and B to 70øC. ß Add B to A, agitating thoroughly. Perfume at $0øC. Stir until the preparation reaches room temperature. l•our. This ennulsion is moderately heavy but it pours readily from a standard bottle. It has excellent high temperature stability. A hair dressing which has prop- erties similar to hair dressing con- taining beeswax may be formulated by replacing beeswax with the hydrophilic beeswax derivatives. Formula 8 Hair Dressing Per Cent A Mineral oil ................... 20 Tween 40* ................... 3 G-1727 ...................... 12 B H20 ......................... 33 Quince seed mucilage (21/,%).. 32 C Perfume P•Eva•ar•o•r: Heat A and B to 70øC. Add B to A with constant agitation. Per- fume at 50øC. Continue stirring to room temperature. Pour. The viscosity of this hair dressing can be v.aried by changing the quince seed content. This lotion, at 0.8% quince seed, is fairly heavy in consistency. The quince seed not only controls viscosity, but also provides some additional dressing for the hair. The beeswax derivatives used in these formulas are light tan in color and have a consistency and odor like beeswax. Their titers are slightly lower than that of beeswax. The more lipophilic products are generally insoluble in water, like beeswax, while the more completely modified products are water dis- persible. Oil solubility decreases with increasing water dispersibility. There are several guides to formu- lating with these derivatives. If they are to be used alone as the emulsifiers, it is best to combine the more lipophilic emulsifiers, e.g., G-1702, G-1704, and G-1706, with the more hydrophilic emulsifiers such as G-1725, G-1726, G-1727, and G-1734. Our tests have indicated that best results are obtained when the beeswax products are used in com- bination with a Span or Tween. Best emulsification is obtained when the lipophilic products are used with Tweens and when the hydrophilic products are used with Spans. Consistency is an important con- sideration in formulation. When a heavy cream is desired, the more lipophilic products, that is those more nearly resembling beeswax, are the best to choose. If a thinner consistency is wanted, it is best to include one of the Tweens when formulating. Although these rules generally
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