354 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS metlcs and Dermatitis," Paul B. Hoeber, New York (1946). (21) Smyth, H. F., Jr., Seaton, J., and Fischer, L., "Some Pharmacological Properties of the 'Tergitol' Pene- rrants," y. Ind. Hyg., 23, 478 (1941). (22) Smyth, H. F., Jr., Seaton, .L, and Fischer, L., "The Single Dose Toxicity of Some Glycols and Derivatives," ?. Ind. Hyg. & Toxicol., 23, 259 (1941). (23) Speel, H. C., "Surface-Active Agents, Chemical Types and Applications," ?. Invest. Derrn., 6, 293 (1945). (24) Stassel, E., "Fatty Alcohols," Soap & San Chem., 38 (Aug., 1945). ' (25) "Textile Chemical Specialty Guide," Textile Book Publishers, New York. Issued annually. (26) "The Chemistry of Fatty Acids," Armour & Co., Chem. Div., Chicago (1947). (27) Tomlinson, K., "The Design of Surface Active Molecules," Mfg. Chem. & M'fg. Perf., 15, 249 (1944). (28) Van Antwerpen, F. J., "Surface Active Agents Manufactured in America and Commercially Available," In. En. Chem., 35, 126 (1943). (29) ,,W•akeman, R. L., and Well, B. H., 'ABC of Chemical Derivatives from Petroleum," Natl. Petroleum News, R-161 (April 7, 1943). (30) Young, C. B. F., and Koons, K. N., "Surface Active Agents," Chemical Publishing Co., Brooklyn (1945).

CONSIDERING THE wide riety of surface-active agents com- merically available, it is interesting to note that the cosmetic industry utilizes so relatively few of these ma- terials in shampoo formulation. These favored products are almost, without exception, fatty acid soaps or fatty derivatives of the anionic type they enjoy a sort of historical priority and this accounts, at least in part• for their preferred position. However, there does not seem to be any reason why many of the neg- lected materials may not find some useful place in shampoo manufac- ture if properly formulated or purl fled. One barrier to the more ef- ficient utilization of available ma- terials has been the development of some rather interesting misconcep- tions regarding surface-active agents and the effects which they produce. A blanket objection often raised against synthetics is that they are excessively drying or defatting. The literature, however, is sadly lacking m evidence that the synthetics dif- fer significantly from soap as to ef- ficiency in removing fatty materials •--•Presented at the May 20, 1949, Meeting, New York City. SHAMPOO FORMULATION* By H. W. ZussMAr /1/rose Chemical Company, Providence, R. ]. from protein fibers. Evidence of actual extraction from the skin of lipoids by aqueous solutions of de- tergents is also unavailable. There appears to be a division of opinion among dermatologists on such mat- ters as permeability,.•of the skin to water or its ability 'to absorb fat dispersed in surface-active solu- tions. While there is no reason to doubt that surface-active agents do remove surface oils from the hair and skin, it is well to bear in mind that these surface oils are excretions and, secondly, that the sebaceous glands are continuously replacing these surface oils. It might also be pointed out that at least some lipoid material on epithelial surfaces is in a "bound" state and is not readily re- moved under any but the most stringent conditions. Stoves (1) reported that the medulla of kolin- sky fur fiber contained a lipold-pro- tein which will not yield its fatty component (sterol) on extraction with chloroform or with synthetic detergent but is hydrolyzed only by boiling with 7.5 per cent alcoholic sodium hydroxide for two hours. In view of the absence of conclu- sive data on the removal of subsur- 355