FIFTEENTH MEDAL AWARD 71 dogs. A detailed discussion of the methodology cannot be gone into here, but suffice it to say research should be undertaken in an effort to develop new methods that are shorter, more meaningful, and less costly. Methods that will permit us to forecast with much greater accuracy the effect that may be expected in man, not excepting carcino- genesis. We need better methods for determining the effects of ma- terials topically applied to the human skin. We need more cutaneous toxicity conferences like that held last October in Washington, D. C., and more research that makes such conferences possible. Before leaving a discussion of safety evaluation, I would like to point out a factor which is sometimes overlooked in assessing the "in use hazard." I refer to exposure. Exposure data are very significant for, if exposure to the substance under consideration is minimal, then the effect is minimal. In order to determine the exposure of the consumer to trace materials in cosmetics, it is necessary to determine the per diem use of several types of cosmetics. The experimental method may be summarized as follows: Weighed packages of the cosmetic are given to the testers with instructions to use it in their customary manner for one week. The loss in weight is determined and is regarded as having been applied to the person of the user during the test period. This is actually loss from the container and disregards spillage, etc. .Per diem use so determined may be regarded as maximum. In these studies the individuals chosen were normal users of the cosmetics to be tested, and they were supplied with the shades they were currently using. We were interested only in maximum exposure therefore, we took the maximum per diem use and not average use. For example: of the 222 women who participated in the lipstick study, we considered as the maximum per diem use the one person who used 73 rag. of lipstick per diem. We assumed that the lipstick contained 12.97% pure dye (about 1.5 times the average). We also assumed that she ate all she applied to her lips. It may be calculated that about 6 parts per million of her daily diet would be color. We have found exposure data extremely useful in evaluating the hazard that may arise from the use of cosmetics. I will not go into the details here, but perhaps a few examples are in order. Let us suppose there is under consideration a limit of one part per million of mercury in color additives. We are able to show that in the ease of a lipstick containing 43% color additives about 0.015 rag. of mercury would be in- gested per year, and that in the case of a dusting powder which we will

72 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS consider to be 100% color additive about 1.5 mg. would be externally applied in a year. Even without considering all the "built-in" safety factors already mentioned, it would seem that any hazard is certainly minimal. Previously, I have pointed out that research should be initiated to develop new methods for the safety evaluation of cosmetics. May I also make a plea for other industry research ? It is to be hoped that in the near future some current or new organization will initiate a cosmetic research foundation that will be concerned with problems of industry- wide interest. In this brief dissertation I have not detailed the role of science in the cosmetic industry. I have chosen to present some matters which are of particular concern to the cosmetic chemist. To My Colleagues in the Society: My sincere appreciation of this honor conferred upon me. To them, may I say that the opportunity for the cosmetic chemist is still unlimited so much is yet to be done. Thank you.