jo Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 35, 231-235 (July 1984) Abstracts The Annual Scientific Meetings and Seminars of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists are important venues for informing the participants about the state of the art and recent technical advances in the field of Cosmetic Science. To provide broader dissemination of that information, the Publication Committee has decided to publish abstracts of the technical presentations made at these Meetings and Seminars in the Journal.--The Editor. Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Scientific Seminar Anaheim, CA, May 9-10, 1984 Monroe Lanzet (Max Factor & Co.), Program Chairman SCIENTIFIC SESSION I Sunscreen predictive assays Nicholas J. Lowe, M.D., James Breeding, UCLA School of Medicine, Los Angeles, CA 90024 The ideal sunscreen should protect against all bio- logical effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) in ad- dition to simply inhibiting UVR induced skin er- ythema. UVB induced DNA damage is thought to be an important component for UVB skin carcin- ogeneses. We have, therefore, used an assay mea- suring UVB effects on epidermal DNA synthesis to assess sunscreens. Induction of the polyamine bio- synthesis enzyme, epidermal ornithine decarboxylase (ODC), is thought to be an important biochemical event for tumor promotion. This enzyme is also induced by UVB radiation. We have, therefore, used inhibition of UVB-induced epidermal ODC as an assay for sunscreen protectiveness. Following UVB radiation, hairless mice develop skin edema, possibly caused by release of vasoactive substances. This results in increased skin thickness which can be measured. We have utilized measurements of dorsal skin edema also to assess the protectiveness of different sunscreening chemicals as an in vitro predictor of UVR absorption, and, if known human sun protection factor sunscreens are compared with new sun protectants in the spectrophotometric ab- sorption assay, a predictive protectant index can be established. Sunscreen substantivity using animal assays Larry A. Wheeler, Ph.D. and Donald S. Clark, Ph.D., Allergan/Herbert Labs., 2525 DuPont Drive, Irvine, CA 92713 The in vitro modulation of DNA synthesis and in- duction ofornithine decarboxylase (ODC) in hairless mice following UV radiation have been used as sen- sitive indicators to assess sunscreen efficacy. Good correlations have been found between the hairless mouse biochemical assays and the human sunscreen protection factor (SPF). The objective of the current work was to determine the value of the hairless mouse model in determining the substantivity of formulations before extensive field testing in human subjects. The reduction of ODC and the suppression of DNA synthesis and edema after a 20 min. swim test in mice, with and without sunscreen after UV light, were used as measures of sunscreen substan- tivity. The values obtained in the mouse assay were compared to a human skin wash off procedure and to a human SPF for a octyl dimethyl para-amino- benzoic acid (octyl-paba) sunscreen. The octyl-paba formulation tested was 90% substantive in the mouse assay, and no changes were seen in the SPF using standard wash off procedures. Use of 8-meth- oxypsoralen plus UVA light-induced ODC was also used to examine substantivity of UVA-containing sunscreen formulations. The results in the mouse suggest useful data on substantivity can be gained about formulations before extensive field testing. 231

232 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Psoralen containing sunscreens: protective or toxic Joseph F. Waiter, M.D., La Jolla, CA Sunscreens containing 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP) have been marketed to promote tanning by in- ducing psoralen-mediated ultraviolet (UV) A (320- 400 nm) melanogenis. The rationale is that this may prevent UVB (290-320 nm) radiation-induced skin damage. However, mouse studies have shown that 5-MOP has the same cutaneous photocarcinogenic potential as 8-methoxypsoralen. In addition, the 5- MOP-containing sunscreen Sun System III (SS III), when combined with UVA, induces epidermal or- nithine decarboxylase activity, an enzyme associated with tumor promotion. Therefore, we investigated whether SS III had sufficient psoralen concentration to be tumorigenic in hairless mice exposed to chronic, intermittent UVA radiation. SS III was applied to hairless mice 5 days per week for 20 weeks. After each application, the mice were ex- posed to 2.5 to 10 joules/cm 2 UVA radiation. All test groups developed atypical squamous papillomas in direct proportion to the dosage of UVA radiation received. A shorter latency period for tumor devel- opment was seen with larger UVA doses. Test an- imals followed up to 1 year developed invasive squa- mous cell tumors. Control groups (SS III without UVA and UVA without SS III) remained free of tumors. Animals receiving SS III plus UVA devel- oped persistent skin thickening and increased dermal cyst formation similar to that reported with chronic exposure to UVB, a known carcinogenic wavelength. Over-the-counter sunscreens con- taining 5-MOP do contain sufficient psoralen con- centrations to cause cutaneous phototoxicity and photocarcinogenicity in mice, and their use in hu- mans should be discouraged in the interest of pre- venting further UV-induced skin damage and skin cancer. SCIENTIFIC SESSION II A biochemical and microchemical analysis of permanent waving human hair Roger Mathews, Ph.D., Edward R. Moore, David W. Cannell, Ph.D., Ronald T. Harris, Ph.D., Redken Laboratories, Inc., 6625 VaNel Avenue, Canoga Park, CA 91303 Data on the kinetics of cystine disulfide reduction and its relationship to wave pattern maturation will be presented. Amino acid analyses of cystine, cys- teine and the mixed disulfide (carboxymethylthio- cysteine-CMTC) in human hair exposed to various waving lotions support a new interpretation of the molecular events operative during permanent waving. Set impartation and set retention of human hair Penelope Diaz, LeszekJ. Wolfram, Ph.D., Michael Wong, Ph.D., Clairol Inc., 2 Blachley Road, Stam- ford, CT 06922 Change in fiber configuration is an essential element in styling of hair and the manipulative success of the latter relies primarily on the ability of hair to acquire a hydro (water) or hydrothermal (water plus heat) set. Hair setting is a complex process in- volving changes in moisture content which are ac- companied by modification of the viscoelastic prop- erties of fibers. This investigation focuses on the role of the water both in the impartation and relax- ation of set. Our results indicate that the degree of imparted set is tied to changes in strongly bound (localized) water present in the hair. The data also suggest that the set relaxation of hair is greatly influenced by changes in moisture content experi- enced by set hair in the course of relaxation. The larger the change, the faster the relaxation. Of par- ticular interest is the fact that this occurs not only in cases where the relaxed hair absorbs moisture, but also when the hair releases it (i.e., the hair dries during the relaxation step). Reactions to glyceryl monothioglycolates Marvin Rapaport, M.D., UCLA Medical Center, Los Angeles, CA 90024 An overview of the differing thioglycolates will be presented. Their properties, differences, skin reac- tions and problems will be looked at. Are they al- lergens or not? Are there great differences between ammonium thioglycolate and the newer "acid" per- manents? Effects of collagen hydrolysates and chemically modified derivatives in hair care products Vernon Johnsen and Elaine S. Stern, lnolex Chem- ical Co., 4221 S. Western Blvd., Chicago, IL 6O6O9 The protective effect to hair of protein hydrolysates in thioglycolate waving systems and the non-inhib- itory effect of protein on the waving process will be discussed. Protective effect is measured by using the Instron Tensile Tester and non-inhibitory waving effect measured by analyzing for reduction of cystine content of hair. Other topics discussed are types of protein-fatty acid condensates currently available, their properties and applications in hair care prod- ucts including thioglycolate waving lotions, as well as properties and applications of newly developed protein derivatives with enhanced cationic ampho- teric and anionic functionality.