ABSTRACTS 233 The chemistry of hair coloring processes John F. Corbett, Ph.D., Clairol Inc., 2 Blachley Road, Stamford CT 06902 The chemical reactions involved in oxidative hair coloring will be discussed, with particular reference to the differences in kinetics between the coupling reactions of p-henylenediamine and its N- substi- tuted derivatives. The sequential and competitive aspects of the color forming reactions will be stressed in considering the critical effect of time and pH on the production of the final color. The reac- tions involved in color fading will also be consid- ered. The discussion of semi-permanent (non-oxi- dative) hair coloring will involve color/structure re- lationships and the effect of molecular structure on color stability. SCIENTIFIC SESSION III Soap and skin cleansers: methods for claims- substantiation Mitchell S. Wortzman, Ph.D., Neutrogena Corp., 5755 West 96th Street, P.O. Box 45036, Los An- geles, CA 90045 The assessment of soap effects on the skin can be divided into several broad areas: safety, cleansing ability and special benefits. Safety or mildness can be assessed by several standard toxicological tech- niques. Recently, more sophisticated studies have focused on detection of preclinical damage to stratum corneum as the basis of soap or detergent product mildness. The value of exaggerated use of clinical studies to demonstrate mildness has been well established, and results correlate well to other forms of testing. The basic function of cleansing varies greatly between different products, de- pending on area of the body and type of surface dirt to be removed. Techniques have been designed to demonstrate active detergency on such things as sebum, cosmetics and auto-grease. In addition, the ability of a soap or detergent to rinse from the skin can also be determined. The removal of deposition of soap scum on the skin surface can effect the cleans- ing efficacy. Many cleansing products promise spe- cial benefits upon washing beyond removal of sur- face dirt. These promises include deodorant protec- tion, skin smoothness and moisturization. Spe- cialized techniques to demonstrate these benefits in- clude profilimetry, image analysis and TEWL. Techniques for evaluating the effects of hair products Clarence Robbins, Ph.D. and C. Reich, Colgate- Palmolive, 909 River Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854 Five years ago a hypothesis was introduced from our laboratories describing how changes in the behavior of hair assemblies (tresses or heads of hair) depend on changes in single fiber properties. This hypoth- esis describes how changes in combing ease, flyaway, body, manageability, and style retention of hair assemblies relate to changes in fiber friction, stiffness, static charge, curvature, weight, and di- ameter. In attempting to test this hypothesis em- pirically, we have encountered several onerous com- plexities. Complications with single fiber parame- ters are sometimes encountered, such as with fiber friction where no adequate methods have been de- scribed for "dry" static friction of single hair fibers. Furthermore, friction of hair fibers varies with load. Thus for each assembly property an appropriate load condition must be selected for determining fric- tional "constants". In addition, the directional fric- tion effect of hair requires a choice among the fol- lowing: with scale friction, against scale friction or some appropriate combination, which must be made on the basis of experimental data. Transfor- mation of data is sometimes required to obtain the most appropriate representation or for statistical analysis. Combing ease provides such an example and, in these situations, critical decisions are re- quired to determine which transformations are most appropriate. We believe this approach is valid, and that the effort to test this hypothesis will provide new insights into our understanding of the behavior or hair assemblies. Antiperspirant claim substantiation Walter Barton Elvers, D.D.S., Bristol-Myers Prod- ucts, 345 Park Ave., New York, NY 10154 Deodorant/antiperspirant products are among the most promoted of the cosmetic/drug categories with the greatest consumer interest focused on antiper- spirant effectiveness, followed by deodorancy, freedom from irritation, low staining, and cosmetic elegance. General testing procedures for anti-per- spirancy have been outlined by the OTC Antiper- spirant Panel. However the investigator must ap- preciate the many factors which can influence the results, only one of which is the performance ca- pability of the product or products under test. For example, failure to take into consideration varia- 'tions in temperature, humidity, interval between application and sweat collections, uniformity of product application, and a host of other factors, can lead to erroneous conclusions. Apart from the many scientific considerations, any study scheduled to be used for claim support must also be designed with an eye to the type of evidence which has been found acceptable by media and regulatory reviewers. The FTC, the Better Business Bureau's NAD, and the networks, among others, have all presented their views on this issue.

234 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Approaches to skin moisturizer claim support: an evaluation David L. Miller, Ph.D., Mary Kay Cosmetics Inc., 1330 Regal Row, Dallas, TX 75240 Webster's New World Dictionary describes a moistur- izer as a substance adding or restoring moisture (water, slight wetness or dampness) to (the skin). Functionally, moisturizers are often regarded as substances which "actively" keep the skin soft, supple and elastic. Claims such as "smooths," "re- stores," and "improves" are common. The target tissue for a moisturizer is the stratum corneum. Recent results suggest only the outer few layers of the stratum corneum are subject to damaging en- vironmental stresses that require the corrective ac- tion of moisturizers. There are two general ap- proaches to understanding the function of moistur- izers: (1) addition of substances to increase moisture sorption by the stratum corneum and, (2) partial occlusion of the skin surface as a means of reducing the evaporative loss of water diffusing from the un- derlying viable tissues. Clinical evaluation of mois- turizers by trained observers remains a benchmark method in spite of its many drawbacks. Instru- mental methods, which either directly or indirectly measure moisturization effects, require very careful interpretation to avoid measuring inappropriate properties of the skin. Skin rectifiers Thomas H. Cook, Ph.D., David K. Robbins, Trelia J. Craft, Elizabeth Arden Research Center, 307 East McCarty Street, Indianapolis, Indiana 46285 A number of new products have been formulated and marketed with claimed modes of action other than those which are somehow associated with the water content of the stratum corneum. These new products are called rectifiers because they claim to correct the appearance of the skin by ways other than the addition of moisture to the stratum cor- neum. Claims such as: improves the cell renewal rate promotes increased cell oxygen intake effec- tively controls oil, increases the amount of protec- tive lipids and helps accelerate the natural repair of cells damaged by ultraviolet light are substan- tiated by physiological and biochemical measure- ments. The dansyl chloride method has been widely used to investigate the rates of stratum corneum renewal. Chloroform/methanol extracts of stratum corneum scrapings or bentonire clays used to collect surface lipids, followed by chromatography, have been used to demonstrate changes in epidermal and sebaceous lipids following cosmetic treatment. Au- toradiographic data as well as ingredient related data have been used as a basis for some rectifier claims. SCIENTIFIC SESSION IV Chemical properties of natural products as a means of quality control Richard J. Schlesinger, Ph.D., Bio-Technics Lab- oratories, Inc., 1133 Crenshaw Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90019 Methods of quality control for natural materials used in cosmetics with an emphasis on tests that can be performed with a limited amount of equip- ment will be discussed as will methods of analysis for determination of active ingredients in biological extracts. Preliminary inquiry into a collagen activator found in the avocado John Hembrow-Beach, Avochem, Inc., 3277 Syn- amore, Fillmore, CA 93015 The avocado (Persea Americana) has recently come under increasing scrutiny because of the varied bi- ological activities associated with many of its newly discovered components. A unique antibacterial property, growth regulators, and a hemagluttinat- ing factor are but some of these. Certain lipidic sub- stances appear to have a market effect in stimulating collagen metabolism in both topical and ingestable forms. A mammalian feeding study was undertaken to examine the effects on the collagen in skin and tendons in various groups fed fractions from avo- cado, soy, corn, and other foodstuffs. Avocado frac- tions alone showed significant increases in soluble versus insoluble collagen, indicating pathology, and none was found. Studies are continuing to further characterize these collagen effects and the agents responsible. Aloe vera components possessing cosmetic and medical applications. Ivan E. Danhof, Ph. D., M.D., Institute for Natural Sources, 909 Dalworth, Suite 200, Grand Prairie, TX 75050 The aim of these investigations was to isolate frac- tions of Aloe vera gel which possessed (1) penerrant and (2) cell growth-stimulating properties. Pene- rrant activity was estimated evaluating in rabbits the transdermal transfer of hydrocortisone to blood plasma using radiolabeled constituents. Ratios of absorption (per hour) of the radiolabeled marker in cream base, cream base + hydrocortisone, and cream base + hydrocortisone + aloe-derived pen- errant were 1.00, 1.12, and 3.04, respectively penetration of similar degree was corroborated using radiolabeled hydrocortisone with and without pen- errant. Cell growth-stimulating activity was eval- uated in cultured human fibroblasts of dermal or- igin. Exposure of fibroblasts to all concentrations of