ABSTRACTS 343 Electron microscopy--image analysis: quantifi- cation of ultrastructural changes in hair as a result of cosmetic treatments Raymond L. Sneath, Ph.D. and Jacalyn G. Gould, The Gillette Co., Gillette Park, Boston, MA 02106 In a recent publication, Zahn et al. described the dissolution of ultrastructural components in hair fi- bers as a direct result of various cosmetic treat- ments. These observations were based on a subjec- tive assessment of holes or voids observed in electron micrographs of hair fiber cross-sections. We have further investigated these effects using electron mi- croscopy in conjunction with image analysis. Cross- sections of proximal and distal ends of intact hair fibers were examined before and after repeated shampooings. The total number of holes, total pro- jected areas, mean areas, and size distributions were determined in the cuticle and cortex regions of hair fibers using a Quantimet 900 Image Analyzer. All measured parameters indicated that ultrastructural disruption increased from the proximal to the distal end of hair fibers. The impact of shampooing on the fiber ultrastructure appeared to be small. The utility and applicability of the technique for hair damage evaluation will be discussed. Aminofunctional silicones: a new class of poly- mers for hair care Gretchen S. Kohl, Michael S. Starch, and Grish Chandra, Ph.D., Dow Corning, 2200 W. Salzburg, Midland, MI 48640 Dimethicones (dimethyl silicone polymers) have long been a useful component of cosmetic and hair care formulations. The use of these polymers in hair care, however, has been somewhat limited due to the difficulty in providing controlled deposition onto the hair. Trimethylsilylamodimethicone, a new class of silicone polymers containing amino- functional groups, has been shown to be far superior to other silicones in providing conditioning benefits on hair due to their affinity for the hair surface. The deposition properties and the effects of the deposited film have been studied using a variety of instru- mental techniques. These include Instron Combing and Atomic Absorption analysis of treated hair sam- ples. Data will be presented to illustrate the be- havior of aminofunctional silicones relative to other materials with respect to deposition from dilute aqueous systems, combing force reduction, and du- rability of the deposited material.
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