SUBJECT INDEX 447 Cream hair relaxer, 39 skin treatment w/o, 105, 125 o/w, 125 topography, 143 Cuticle hair components, endocuticle, 53 diameter, 87 triboelectric charging, 189 image analysis weathering, shampooing, 53 keratin amino acid analysis, 17 Cyclomethicone solubility parameter, 319 Cysteic acid hair sulfonate linkages, 61 keratin crosslink cleavage, 17 Cystine hair disulfide bond fission, 61 disulfide bond reduction, 75 disulfide exchange, 363 keratin swelling, 17 Damping length skin amplitude, 169 Dansyl chloride skin evaluation of flourescence, 125 D&C red no. 22 solubility parameter, 319 DDT hair bond reduction, 75 Decane solubility parameter, 319 Decyl alcohol solubility parameter, 319 surfactant, 189 Density hair triboelectric charging, 189 sedimentation suspension, 393 Dermatitis atopic, effects on skin, 153 Dermis mechanical response frequency, 335 Desonide steroid chromatographic conditions, 303 Detergeney shampoo evaluation, 271 stratum corneum lipid removal, 287 Diaeetone alcohol solubility parameter, 319 Diaeetoxy DTT hair disulfide bond reduction 75 Diaeetyldihydroluitidine imidazolidinyl urea colorimetric assay, 413 Diameter hair torsional behavior, 87 Diazolidinyl urea resistance cosmetics, 413 Dihutyl phthalate solubility parameter, 319 Diethanolamine matrix NDELA determination, 223 Diethylene glycol solubility parameter, 319 Diethyl ether solubility parameter, 319 Diffraction stratum corneum x-ray, 349 Diffusion dyes hair, 1 hair disulfide bond reduction, 75 Ditlorasone diaeetate steroid chromatographic conditions, 303 Dihydrolipoic acid hair bond reduction, 75 Diisopropyl adipate solubility parameter, 319 Diisopropyl amine solubility parameter, 319 Dimethicone solubility parameter, 319 Dimethoxy DDT hair disulfide bond reduction, 75 Dimethyl sulfoxide humectant sorption, 39 solubility parameter, 319 Dioctyl maleate solubility parameter, 319 Dioctyl phthalate solubility parameter, 319 Diphenyl nitrosamine chromatographic characteristics HPLC-TEA analysis, 213 Disodium citrate surfactants, 297 Dispersion non-polar attractions solubility parameter, solvents, 319 suspension stability, colloidal, 393 Displacement skin measurement, 335 Disulfide bonds cystine, 363 crosslinks keratin, protein, 17 hair torsional behavior, 87 1,4 dithio 2-butanol hair disulfide bond reduction, 75 Dithiol hair bond reduction, 75 Dithiopropanol hair bond reduction, 75 Dithiothreitol see DDT Dodecyl surfactant, 189 Domiphen bromide oral rinse, 297 Donor percutaneous absorption computer model, 237 polymer molecular ions, 189 Dyes hair oxidation degradation, 61 torsional behavior, 87 triboelectric charging, 189 semipermanent diffusion, pH, temperature, concentration, solvent composition, HC Red 3,1 uptake hair, wool, 31 Eccrine sweat gland antiperspirants aluminum salts, 435 Edema guinea pigs in vitro assay, 425 Eicosanoic acid surfactant, 189 Elaidyl alcohol solubility parameter, 319 Electrodynamometer stratum corneum mechanical properties, 335 Electron hair triboelectric charging, 189 spectroscopy chemical analysis (see ESCA), 287 Ellipticity hair, 39 Emollients stratum corneum, 177 Emulsions aqueous occlusivity, w/o, o/w, 255 cosmetics peanut oil, resistance, imidazolidinyl urea, 413 solubility stabilization, 319 Epidermis barrier property, 287

448 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS mechanical response frequency, 335 swelling, 251 curling, 251 Equations antimicrobial activity, 313 binding energy of electrons skin, surface composition, 287 cystine interchange, 363 dye diffusion solution of, coefficient, effect on temperature, fractional dye uptake, partition coefficient, affinity of, 1 fluorescence Beer Lambert law, 125 Kubelka-Munk reflectance of dyed fiber, dye concentration, 31 moving boundary model dithiol reducing agents, 75 n-nitrosamines relative weight response, quantitative analysis, 213 occlusivity in emulsions, 255 percutaneous absorption rate of change of permeant using computer model, 237 rigidity hair fiber, torsion modulus, 87 skin topography peak factor criterion, 143 displacement, 335 solubility parameter cosmetic formulations, 319 stratum corneum shear waves, 169 sunscreen substantivity, 355 suspensions physical stability, 393 triboelectric charging electron transfer process, charge build-up, equilibrium charge density, keratin work function, charge decay, 189 Erucic acid solubility parameter, 319 Erythema guinea pigs in vitro assay, 425 irritancy assay topical vehicles, 303 response delayed contact hypersensitivity reaction 159 ESCA skin lipid removal, 287 Ester p-methoxy cinnamic acid, 125 sebum composition, 271 surfactant emulsions, 255 Ethanol absolute weathering effects on hair, 61 solubility parameter, 319 solvent extraction of structural lipid, 298 sunscreen substantivity, 355 Ethanolamine NDELA determination in cosmetics, 223 solubility parameter, 319 Ether anhydrous weathering effects on hair, 61 solvent extraction of structural lipid, 287 stratum corneum extraction, 349 surfactant emulsions, 255 Ethoxyethanol acetate solubility parameter, 319 Ethyl acetate solubility parameter, 319 Ethyl dihydroxypropyl sunscreen substantivity, 355 Ethylene glycol solubility parameter, 319 Ethylene/vinyl acetate copolymer solubility parameter, 319 Ethyl ether solubility parameter, 319 Ethyl lactate solubility parameter, 319 Extension hair, 39 Fatty acids sebum composition, 271 Filaments hair, ultrastructural, 87 Flocculation dispersion suspensions, 393 Fluorescence skin sunscreen evaluation, 125 Foam surfactant solubility parameter, 319 Force coil skin mechanical properties, 335 Formaldehyde imidazolidinyl urea titration, chemical analysis, 313 colorimetric assay, 413 Formalin resistance cosmetics, 413 Formic acid hair swelling, 39 effect on keratin fibers, 53 Fourier analysis skin spectral, 105 hair oxidation, transform infrared spectroscopy, 61 Fracture hair smooth, step, angle, fibrillated, split ends, 39 Fragrance in cream, 143 G2 stratum corneum treatments with, 349 Gaussian distribution polymer energy states, 189 Geraniol solubility parameter, 319 Glutamic acid keratin amino acid analysis, 17 Glycerin humectant sorption, 39 in cream, 143 rheology suspension, 393 solubility parameter, 319 Glycerine hair bleaching, 61 oxidation, 363 Glycerol skin mechanical properties, 335 Glyceryl laurate solubility parameter, 319 Glyceryl stearate solubility parameter, 319 Glycine keratin amino acid analysis, 17 Gly-tyr high keratin component, 17 Grisiofulvin salts flocculation, 393 Guinea pigs dermal delivery system delayed contact hypersensitivity, 159 in vitro assay phototoxicity, 425 Hair amino acid analysis human, TTD, x-linked, la meltar icthyosis, 17 bands oxidation, peptide, amide, 61 binding, 373 disulfide bond reduction, 75 dye diffusion, pH, temperature, concentration, solvent composition, 1