SUBJECT INDEX 449 uptake, 31 fracture behavior Negroid, Caucasian, 39 keratin hydrolysates disulfide exchange reaction, 363 mechanical behavior ellipticity, extension, stress, 39 oxidation degradation, 61 torsional behavior, 87 treatments cream relaxer, thioglycolic acid, humectants, 39 triboelectric charging surface modifications, 189 ultrastructural organization, keratin, non- keratin, 53 changes, weathering, shampooing, 53 Hammet correlations triboelectric charging, 189 HCL hair torsional behavior, 87 HC Red 3 dye diffusion, 1 Heat see temperature Helical coil configuration hair setting, waving, 87 Heliotropine in vitro assay phototoxicity, 425 Heptane solubility parameter, 319 Hexacyanoferrate oxidant dyes, 31 Hexadecyl surfactant, 189 Hexamethyldisiloxane solubility parameter, 319 Hexane solubility parameter, 319 solvent shampoo detergency, 271 Hexyl alcohol solubility parameter, 319 Hexylene glycol solubility parameter, 319 Hill top chamber dermal delivery patch testing, 159 H-iodoacetic acid hair SH groups, 39 H202 concentration dye uptake, 31 HPLC-TEA system quantitative analysis of NDELA, 213 cosmetics NDELA formation, 223 Humectants emulsions occlusivity, 255 hair treatment, monoethanolamine, thioglycolate fracture behavior, 39 propylene glycol hydration, 303 skin mechanical properties, 335 Hydrocarbon liquids suspension, 393 sebum composition, 271 Hydrochloric acid disulfide exchange reaction, 363 Hydrocortisone steroid chromatographic conditions, 303 Hydrocortisone 17-butyrate steroid chromatographic conditions, 303 Hydrogen bonds keratin, protein, 17 plasticization, 177 solubility parameter, 319 Hydrogen peroxide dye uptake, 31 hair oxidation, 6l, 363 Hydrogen sulfide oral malodor component, 297 Hydroxy acid stratum corneum rheological properties, 177 Hydroxybutyric acid plasticity, 177 2-hydroxycaprylic acid stratum corneum plasticity, 177 Hydroxyethyl cellulose sedimentation viscosity, 393 Hydroxypropionic acid plasticity, 177 Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose thickening agents cosmetics, 393 Hygroscopicity stratum comeurn theology, 177 Image analysis electron microscopy ultrastructural changes of hair, 53 Imidazolidinyl urea antimicrobial activity, 313 cosmetics resistance, 413 Indentometry dermis aging, 335 In vitro assay phototoxic potential, 425 measurement of anionic surfactants, 251 percutaneous absorption, 237 sunscreen substantivity, 355 In vivo agar patch method skin, 231 skin mechanical properties, 169 sunscreen substantivity, 355 tensile measurements, 335 vasoconstriction topical vehicles, 303 Irritancy steroids, 303 Isobutyl stearate solubility parameter, 319 Isocamphane theory of Arnoore shape, odor 381 Isocetyl alcohol solubility parameter, 319 Isopentane solubility parameter, 319 Isopropanol NDELA determination, 223 sunscreen substantivity, 355 Isopropyl cream, 143 solubility parameter alcohol, lactate, myristate, palmitate, 319 Isostearic acid solubility parameter, 319 Isostearyl alcohol solubility parameter, 319 Isotropic oily phase emulsions formation capacity, 255 Keratin components 53 amino acid analysis, 17 fiber surface modification, 189 hydrogen bonds plasticity, 177 oxidative dyeing, 31 structure crosslinks, swelling, 17 sunscreen substantivity, 355 KH2PO4 buffer solution aqueous dyeing, 1 Kinetics

450 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS hair disulfide bond reduction, 75 skin epidermal cells, 153 Lactic acid solubility parameter, 319 stratum corneum rheological properties, 177 Lanolin emulsions, 255 Lanthionine hair, 39 Lauric acid solubility parameter, 319 Lauryl alcohol solubility parameter, 319 Lead citrate hair preparation for scanning transmission, 53 Leucic acid stratum corneum hygroscopicity, 177 Levarometry dermis aging, 335 Linolenic acid solubility parameter, 319 Linseed oil solubility parameter, 319 Lipids skin surface, 153 intercellular membranes, 53 ESCA, 287 Lipoic acid hair bond reduction, 75 Lipophile phase emulsions, 255 London dispersion forces solubility non-polar attractions, 319 Lotion rheology suspensions, 393 Low torque torsional method stratum corneum mechanical properties, 335 Lubricants solubility parameter cosmetic formulation, 319 Lyral in vitro assay phototoxicity, 425 Lysinoalanine hair, 39 Magnesium aluminum silicate suspensions dispersion, 393 Magnesium carbonate suspensions flocculation, 53 Magnesium stearate surface tension values, 393 Mandelic acid hair ultrastructural, 87 stratum corneum hygroscopicity, 177 Mannitol salt agar soap antibacterial activity 231 Matrix cosmetic ingredients, 223 intramacrofibrillar keratin components, 53 keratin swelling, 17 Measurements emulsions occlusivity, formation capacity, viscosity, conductivity, 255 ESCA: lipid removal, 287 fluorescence intensity, 125 hair dye uptake, 31 ultrastructural changes, 53 oxidative hair damage, 61 torsional behavior, 87 triboelectric charging, 189 penetration aspirin, 393 skin roughness, anisotropy, skewness, curtosis, 105 surface roughness, 153 propagation velocity, attenuation of shear waves, 169 displacement, 335 stratum corneum mechanical properties, cyclic stress response, sorption isotherm, hygroscopicity, 177 MEK solubility parameter, 319 Melissyl alcohol solubility parameter, 319 Membrane keratin amino acid analysis, 17 Metal work function electron movement, 189 Methane solubility parameter, 319 Methanol/methylene chloride solvent polarity NDELA determination, 223 Methodology absorption-extraction rate of dyeing, 1 agar patch antibacterial activity, 231 buehler sensitivity of HTC versus webril patch, 159 desorption rate of dyeing, 1 tape stripping antiperspirant activity, 435 colormetric method of sulfhydryl analysis oral malodor, 297 digital signal processing reconstruction of skin, 105 dye extraction diffusion, 1 electron microscopy hair structure, composition, 53 fluorometers spectrodensitometer, luminescence spectrometer, 125 fourier transform infrared spectroscopy oxidative hair damage, 61 gas bearing electrodynamometer mechanical properties, 335 heat trypsinization stratum corneum, 177 high pressure liquid chromatography NDELA, 213,223 solubility parameter, 319 low torque torsional mechanical properties, 335 microspectrophotometric rate of dyeing, 1 reflectance dye uptake, 31 regression amino acid analysis, 17 shadow making isocamphane, 381 shampoo detergency finger, sponge, bulk process, 271 single fiber tensile kinetics reduction, 75 skin profilometry topography, 143 spectrometer sunscreen evaluation, 125 spectrophotometric assay imidazolidinyl urea, 413 spectrum analyzer phase difference, relative amplitude, 169 starch iodine antiperspirant activity, 435 torsion-pendulum hair, 87 ultraviolet emission in vitro assay, 425 Methoxy ethanol solubility parameter, 319 Methoxypropanol solubility parameter, 319 Methoxypropanol acetate solubility parameter, 319 8-methoxy psoralen in vitro assay phototoxicity, 425