j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 37, 43-48 (January/February 1986) Abstracts The Annual Scientific Meetings and Seminars of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists are important venues for informing the participants about the state of the art and recent technical advances in the field of Cosmetic Science. To provide broader dissemination of that information, the Publi- cations Committee has decided to publish abstracts of the technical presentations made at these Meetings and Seminars in the Journal.--The Editor. Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Scientific Seminar Boston, MA, May 8-9, 1986 SCIENTIFIC SESSION I STICK TECHNOLOGY Technology of sodium stearate sticks Graham Barker, Witco Corp., 100 Bauer Dr., Oakland, NJ 07436 The unique gelling properties of sodium soaps will be discussed, especially in the preparation of de- odorant and emollient sticks. Most studies on soap systems involve phase studies of soap at high per- centages, their mesomorphic forms, and transition temperatures. Very little work has been published on systems containing low levels of soap (6-10%) and various solvents at much higher levels. A pro- posed structure for systems of this type will be given. Cosolublizers for lipstick Christopher D. Vaughan, Cosmair Inc., 285 Ter- minal Ave., Clark, NJ 07066 The function of cosolublizers in wax oil systems was examined with respect to regular solution theory, solubility parameters, and empirically derived ter- nary diagrams. Turbidity titrations and computer computations were related to assess the effectiveness of various cosolublizers on the normally insoluble castor oil/mineral oil model. From this data it was possible to conclude that the solubility parameter is the most significant factor determining the solubi- lizing effectiveness and comparability of additives to wax/oil "lipstick type" systems. New concepts for cosmetic sticks based on sili- cones Stefan Rentsch, Dow Corning Corp., Midland, MI 48686 Silicones currently play an important role in the formulation of cosmetic stick products. The func- tion of volatile silicones in stick antiperspirants is well established. This paper will present the results of a study aimed at identifying the utility of various silicones in a broad range of stick products. The use of volatile silicones in deodorant sticks including translucent and transparent sticks will be shown, and the value of Dimethicone Copolyol emulsifier in reduced-cost deodorant and antiperspirant sticks will be demonstrated. Silicone wax and/or Dimeth- icone Copolyol have been formulated into fragrance sticks, lip sticks and balms, sunscreen sticks, and make-up sticks, and examples will be shown. Fi- nally, compatibility of silicones with various gelling agents will be presented. It is hoped that the cosmetic chemist will gain a new understanding of the value and versatility of silicones in cosmetic stick products. Solid antiperspirant formulations Thomas Schamper, Ph.D., American Cyanamid Co., 697 Route 46, Clifton, NJ 07015 A brief history of the development of antiper- spirants will be given. The various types of solid antiperspirants (wax, clear, two-phase, emulsion) will be discussed in terms of materials of composi- tion, processing, and aesthetics. 43

44 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS SCIENTIFIC SESSION II GERIATRIC TOPICALS Care of the hair and nails Howard P. Baden, M.D., Harvard Medical School, Department of Dermatology, Warren 566, Boston, MA 02114 Care of the nails is important to avoid unnecessary trauma which may lead to a variety of complica- tions. The various techniques available will be dis- cussed. The major hair problems faced by the el- derly and classification and management of these will be presented. Cosmetic therapy for the elderly Jean Ann Graham, Ph.D., University of Pennsyl- vania. Mailing address: By Ways, Llanasa Rd., Gronant, Prestatyn, Clwyd, N. Wales, LL19 9SP, U.K. Research is described that shows psychological/ther- apeutic effects of cosmetic treatments administered to the elderly. The new concept of cosmetic therapy has emerged from such research. The methodology involves a skilled cosmetician conducting a com- plete facial make-over before and after psychological assessment of the individual. With the fairly dra- matic change in appearance comes striking changes in mood state and other self perceived character- istics. Those who had aged badly in terms of cuta- neous changes benefitted significantly more than those who had aged well. Training in cosmetic techniques can be used to benefit the elderly popu- lation and alleviate some of the social suffering caused by negative reactions to deteriorated appear- ance. The treatments Albert M. Kligman, M.D., Ph.D., University of Pennsylvania, Department of Dermatology, 244 Medical Education Bldg., 36th & Hamilton Walk/ GM, Philadelphia, PA 19104 Most people over 65 have multiple dermatologic le- sions these are rarely dangerous but seriously downgrade the quality of life. Loss of youthful ap- pearance adversely affects health, self-esteem, and social satisfactions. Dry skin is universal among the elderly and often very distressing. This paper will describe the use of retinoic acid for retarding and ameliorating photoaging of the face and practical strategies for ameliorating senile xerosis. Prevention and repair of actinic damage to skin Lorraine H. Kligman, Ph.D., University of Penn- sylvania, Department of Dermatology, 234 Medical Education Bldg., 36th & Hamilton Walk/GM, Philadelphia, PA 19104 The connective tissue of chronically ultraviolet irra- diated animal and human skin is characterized by excessive accumulations of elastic fibers, loss of ma- ture collagen, and greatly increased levels of gly- cosaminoglycans. These changes are preventable by broad spectrum sunscreens applied concurrently with each exposure. Once damaged, however, the dermis was considered unrepairable. We recently showed, in albino hairless mice, that repair was possible. In the post-irradiation period, normal connective tissue was laid down subepidermally. We were interested in two aspects of this repair: (1) would repair occur if animals were protected by sunscreens after dermal damage was induced and ir- radiation continued? (2) could retinoids enhance the repair process? To examine the first, mice were irra- diated with FS 20 sunlamps thrice weekly for 30 weeks. Sunscreens of high sun protection factors were applied after 10 and 20 weeks. Not only was further damage prevented, but the damage incurred before sunscreen application was repaired. This ap- peared as subepidermal reconstruction zones con- taining normal, mature collagen. The second was examined by applying 0.05% retinoic acid, topi- cally, to animals pre-irradiated for 10 weeks. In contrast to controls, the reconstruction gone was significantly wider in retinoic acid-treated mice. The enhanced repair was dose-related. Functional changes in old skin Barbara A. Gilchrest, M.D., USDA Human Nutri- tion Center, Tufts University, 711 Washington St., Boston, MA 02111 The rapidly increasing number of old Americans has appropriately focused interest on their specific health care needs, including appropriate skin care products and topical medications. Although age-as- sociated cutaneous changes are most dramatic in ha- bitually sun-exposed areas, producing morphologic and functional changes termed dermatoheliosis, substantial changes also occur in sun-protected skin with age. Histologic changes include flattening of the dermal epidermal junction with effacement of the fete pegs, loss of epidermal melanocytes and Langerhans' cells, a marked reduction in the area of the superificial vascular plexus, loss of perivenular mast cells and thickness of the venular wall, altered collagen and elastin fibers, thinning of the dermis, and loss of subcutaneous fat. Functionally, well documented age-associated changes include reduc- tions in epidermal turnover rate, injury response, sensory perception, immune responsiveness, vas- cular responsiveness, thermal regulation, sweat pro- duction, sebum production, and vitamin D produc- tion. Areas of great importance to formulation and use of topical medications, barrier function and chemical clearance, are presently being reevaluated.