ABSTRACTS 47 ethoxy sulfate-nonionic systems. The data presented include Draize rabbit eye irritation scores. Ways to achieve desired physical use properties with mild characteristics are suggested to the hair shampoo formulator. Valuable polymer characteristics in shampoos and other aqueous surfactant systems R. Y. Lockhead and D. S. Warfield, B. F. Good- rich Chemical Company, P.O. Box 122, Avon Lake, OH 44012 Polymers are often used in shampoo systems so that formulated products have the characteristics desired by the end user. Carbopol © resins which consist mainly of polyacrylic acid are polymers that can contribute to the optimization of the characteristics of such a system. Carbopol © resins are useful as thickeners and suspending agents due to their Bingham Body type rheology with measurable yield value and pronounced shear thinning at shear stresses above the yield value. However, interaction with other components of the formulation can alter Carbopol©'s properties. The interaction of Car- bopol © with various components of shampoos on critical properties have been studied. Properties in- cluded in the study were viscosity, resistance to set- tling, clarity, heat and freeze-thaw stability, foaming, and deposition. Different surfactants, foam boosters, active agents, and salts have been examined. Information gathered from these studies has been presented in a phase diagram format so that a for- mulator can be guided directly into the composition region which will best satisfy his requirements. Phase diagrams also predict where different proper- ties cannot be simultaneously achieved and what compromise is needed for the optimal, final formu- lation. Enhanced substantivity proteins Kevin Gallagher and Roger Jones, Croda Inc., 183 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10016 Proteins are amphoteric materials possessing both an anionic (negative charge) and cationic (positive charge) nature. Recent advances have made it pos- sible to enhance the cationic character of proteins by the grafting of fatty quaternary groups onto the protein chain. Data will be presented which demon- strates the increased substantivity of these "cationic proteins" to human hair. The hydrophilic nature of the protein portion of the molecule allows these ma- terials to be water-soluble and compatible with an- ionic surfactants (unlike conventional fatty quater- naries). This allows the formulation of unique products. Information on substantivity, from aqueous solutions as well as from common surfac- tant solutions, obtained by radioactive labelling, will be presented. Additional data will include per- formance comparison with fatty quats and unmodi- fled proteins, surface active capability, mechanism of absorption, and applications to hair and skin care, which includes their use in high pH perma- nent wave systems, normally not capable of cationic conditioning. Protecting skin-care actives on skin Stephen C. Johnson, Ph.D., GAF Corp., 140 West 51st St., New York, NY 10020 Water resistance is a key objective of many of today's skin-care formulations. Pigments in skin- care products such as makeup, mascara, and lipstick require protection from moisture and sweat. Active agents in sunscreen products also need protection from water. GAF produces a line of alkylated PVP resins under the tradename Ganex ©. The resins are water insoluble, possess the ability to effectively disperse active ingredients, and are safe for use on the body and around the eye. The alkylated PVP resins also possess formulation flexibility they can be incorporated into alcoholic or hydroalcoholic systems as well as into an oil phase of an emulsion to provide a tack-free, water resistant protective film on dry down. Ateloglycane: A new cosmetic "active" Isabelle Beyssac, Gattefosse Corporation, 3 West- chester Plaza, Elmsford, NY 10523 Ateloglycane is a unique new cosmetic raw material from Gattefosse Corporation. It represents an ex- citing breakthrough in product performance, tech- nology, and product marketing. For the first time, formulators have an extremely effective moistur- izing agent which combines the known effectiveness of soluble collagen and glycosaminoglycans (e.g., hyaluronic acid) in a single product. Prior attempts to produce similar products required an acidic pH to maintain collagen integrity. These were unsuc- cessful due to the inherent instability of soluble col- lagen at a physiological pH (necessary for acceptable skin toleration) or with high quantities of muco- polysaccharides. Now, however, the full benefits of these moisturizers are available in an effective, stable, and truly unique product. New polymers for cosmetic products Ronald I. Davis, ICI Americas Inc., Wilmington, DE 19899 A new class of Polyquaterniums has been developed for use in skin and hair care products. These poly- mers have been designed to be highly effective

48 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS moisture barriers with good film-forming proper- ties. All contain cationic substituents and are sub- stantive to skin and hair. This type of polymer is physiologically inert and exhibits elegant skin feel. All of these properties are valuable when formu- lating moisturizing creams or lotions. The substan- tivity and film-forming properties are especially useful in hair care products. CTFA names assigned to two members of this family are Polyquaternium- 19 and Polyquaternium-20. The chemistry and physical properties of these polymers will be dis- cussed. Methods of evaluation will be reviewed. A wide range of possible applications will be de- scribed. Jordaquat Dimer 18, a new conditioning mate- rial David A. Krochock, Jordan Chemical Company, 1830 Columbia Ave., Folcroft, PA 19032 In order to bridge the gap between mono-functional fatty quaternary ammonium compounds and the polymeric cationics, the Jordaquat Dimers were de- veloped. These bis-quaternary ammonium com- pounds should be considered in hair and skin care treatment applications. They have been found to be highly substantive to hair and skin, and show none of the excessive build-up characteristics of poly- meric cationics. They are extremely effective in re- ducing surface friction and static of hair, and thus, they vastly improve combing characteristics. Dimer 18 is a 50% active paste with a consistency similar to stearalkonium chloride. Animal testing has shown it to be mild to the eyes and skin. Applica- tions in the cosmetic industry which are most promising to date are hair conditioners, shampoos, permanent waves, hydrogen peroxide neutralizers for perms, and skin care lotions. Phase behavior of silicone copolymers A. L. Kuo, Union Carbide Corporation, Old Saw Mill River Rd., Tarrytown, NY 1059! The thermodynamically stable silicone microemul- sions containing water, silicone surface active agent, and volatile silicon are described. The ter- nary phase diagram is determined. These microe- mulsions are characterized by photon correlation spectroscopy the effects of surfactant concentration, of internal phase volume, and of temperature on particle size are determined. The microphase struc- ture is studied by NMR. The applicati6n of the sili- cone microemulsions in the preparation of high in- ternal phase macroemulsions and a variety of cos- metic products such as hair conditioners, skin creams, and lotions is illustrated.