170 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS composition was applied to the skin to the changes of stratum corneum lipid structure brought forward by its influence on the stratum corneum lipids. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This research was supported financially by Colgate-Palmolive Central Research Labora- tories within the CAMP program at Clarkson University. REFERENCES (1) Cosmeticology, J. B. Wilkinson and R. J. More, Eds. (Chemical Publishing, New York, 1981). (2) Cosmetic Science, M. M. Breuer, Ed. (Academic Press, London, 1980). (3) M. M. Breuer, "Cosmetic Emulsions" in Encyclopedia of Emulsion Technology, P. Becher, Ed. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1985), Vol. 2, pp. 385-424. (4) J. N. Israelachvili, D. J. Mitchell, and B. W. Ninham, Theory of self-assembly of hydrocarbon, J. Chem. Soc. Faraday Trans. II, 72, 1525-1567 (1976). (5) P. Becher, Emulsions: Theory and Practice, 2nd ed. (Reinhold, New York, 1968). (6) Emulsion Science, P. Sherman, Ed. (Academic Press, London, 1968). (7) K. Shinoda, The correlation between the dissolution state of ionic surfactant and the type of disper- sion stabilized with the surfactant,J. Colloid Interface Sci. 24, 4-9 (1967). (8) T. J. Lin, Low energy emulsification. 1. Principles and applications, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 29, 117-125 (1987). (9) S. E. Friberg, L. Mandell, and M. Larrson, Mesomorphous phases, a factor of importance for the properties of emulsions, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 29, 155-156 (1969). (10) Food Emulsions, S. E. Friberg, Ed. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1976). (11) H. Sagitani, Making homogenous and fine droplet o/w emulsions using nonionic surfactants, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 58, 738-743 (1981). (12) T. Suzuki, H. Tsutsumi, and A. Ishido, Secondary droplet emulsion: Mechanism and effects of liquid crystal formation in o/w emulsion, J. Disp. Sci. Techn., 5, 119-141 (1984). (13) Microemulsions.' Structure and Dynamics, S. E. Friberg and P. Bathorel, Eds. (CRC Press, 1987). (14) K. Shinoda and B. Lindman, Organized surfactant systems: Microemulsions, Langmuir, 3, 135-149 (1987). (15) S. E. Friberg, "Stabilization of Inverse Micelles by Nonionic Surfactants," in Interfacial Phenomena in Apolar Media, H.-F. Eicke and G. D. Parfitt, Eds. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1987). (16) H.oF. Eicke and H. Christen, Nucleation process of micelle formation in apolar solvents, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 48, 281-287 (1974). (17) B. H. Robinson, C. Toprakcioglu, and J. C. Dore, Small angle neutron scattering studies of micro- emulsions stabilized by aerosol-OT, J. Chem. Soc. Faraday Trans., 80, 13-27 (1984). (18) S. E. Friberg and I. Buraczewska, Microemulsions in the water-potassium oleate-benzene system, Progr. Colloid Polym. Sci., 63, 1-9 (1978). (19) E. Sj6blom and S. E. Friberg, Light-scattering and electron microscopy determinations of association structures in w/o microemulsions, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 67, 16 (1978). (20) D. G. Rance and S. E. Friberg, Micellar solutions versus microemulsions, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 60, 207-209 (1977). (21) S. Wahlgren, A.-L. Lindstr6m, and S. E. Friberg, Liquid crystals as a potential ointment vehicle, J. Pharm. Sci., 73, 1484-1486 (1984). (22) A.M. Kligman in Biology of the Stratum Corneum in Epidermis, W. Montagna, Ed. (Academic Press, New York, 1964), pp. 421-446. (23) P.M. Elias, B. E. Brown, P. T. Fritsch, R. J. Gorke, G. M. Goay, and R. J. White, Localization and composition of lipids in neonatal mouse stratum granulosum and stratum corneum, J. Invest. Dermatol., 73, 339-348 (1979). (24) S. E. Friberg and D. W. Osborne, Small angle x-ray diffraction patterns of stratum corneum and a model structure for its lipids, J. Disp. Sci. Techn., 6, 485-495 (1985).

AMPHIPHILIC ASSOCIATION STRUCTURES 171 (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) (30) C. L. Froebe, F. A. Simion, H. Ohlineyer, L. D. Rhein, J. Mattai, R. H. Cagan, and S. E. Friberg, Prevention of stratum corneum lipid phase transitions in vitro by glycerol--An alternative mechanism for skin moisturization. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. (in press). G. Grubauer, K. R. Feingold, R. M. Harris, and P. M. Elias, Lipid content and lipid type as determinants of the epidermal permeability barrier, J. Lipid Res., 30, 89-96 (1989). S. E. Friberg, I. Kayall, W. Beckerman, L. Rhein, and F. A. Simion, Water permeation of reaggre- gated stratum corneum with model lipids, J. Invest. Dermatol. (in press). S. E. Friberg and I. Kayall, Water evaporation rates from a model of the stratum. J. Pharm. Sci., 78, 639-643 (1989). G. O. Burr and M. M. Burr, A new deficiency disease produced by the rigid exclusion of fat from the diet,J. Biol. Chem., 82, 335-336 (1929). P.M. Elias and B. E. Brown, The mammalian cutaneous permeability barrier: Defective barrier in essential fatty acid deficiency correlates with abnormal intercellular lipid deposition, Lab. Invest., 39, 574-583 (1978).