84 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS of 10-20%. It allowed for a quantitative investigation of both model and commercial systems in terms of stiffness, tackiness, and resitance to high humidity. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The authors acknowledge useful discussions with J. Kosiek and K. Krummel. REFERENCES (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (lO) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) S. H. Ganslaw and F. T. Koehler, Evaluation of hair fixatives--A new technique utilizing torsional measurements, J. $oc. Cosmet. Chem., 29, 65 (1978). F. Frosch and F. Vogel, Parfums, Cosmetiques, Aromes, 89, 71 (1989). W. Hinz, Air spray for hairspray, Manufact. Chem., 64 (7), 30 (1993). J. Guth, J. Russo, T. Kay, N. King, and R. Beaven, Addressing the low VOC hair spray issue, Cosmet. Toileter., 108 (11), 97 (1993). J. Guth, Getting to 55% and beyond, in Spray Technology & Marketing, 26 (September 1994). H. Zahn and G. Blankenburg, Action of alcohol/water mixtures on wool, Text. Res. J., 34, 176 (1964). M. Feughelman, The physical properties ofalpha-keratin fibers,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 33, 385 (1982). A. L. Micchelli and F. T. Koehler, Polymer properties influencing curl retention at high humidity, J. $oc. Cosmet. Chem., 19, 863 (1968). P. Diaz and M. Y. M. Wong, Set relaxation of human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 34, 205 (1983). R. Randall Wickett, J. A. Sramek, and C. M. Trobaugh, Measurement of the adhesive strength of hair-hairspray junctions, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 43, 169 (1992). R. W. Rance, Studies of the factors controlling the action of of hair sprays. I. The spreading of hair spray resin solutions on hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 24, 501 (1973). R. W. Rance, Studies of factors contr611ing the action of hairsprays. lI. The adhesion of hairspray resins to hair fibers, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 25, 297 (1974). R. W. Rance, Particle size distribution measurement of hair sprays using an image-splitting particle size analyzer, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 23, 197 (1972). R. W. Rance, Studies of the factors controlling the action of hair sprays. III. The influence of particle velocity and diameter on the capture of particle by arrays of hair fibers, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 25, 545 (1974). E. Walls and E. Hardy performed a preliminary study of adhesive properties of hairspray solution spread on flat, metal substrates, as a function of drying time (ISP internal reports).
J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 47, 85-95 (March/April 1996) Metabolism of vitamin E during skin permeation AE-RI CHO LEE and KAKUJI TOJO, Controlled Drug Delivery Research Center, College of Pharmacy, Rutgers University, Piscataway, NJ 08855-0789. Received November 1995. Synopsis Metabolism of vitamin E (o•-tocopherol) in hairless mouse skin was investigated. An in vitro skin permeation study was performed with [ •H] 2-1,3-o•-tocopherol. Hairless mouse skin was mounted between the half cells of the Valia-Chien diffusion cell, and the total radioactivity in the receptor solution as a function of time was identified with HPLC in line with a UV spectrometer and a liquid scintillation counter. Significant amounts of radioactivity were recovered as o•-tocopherol quinone and more hydrophilic metabolites. To confirm the metabolism of vitamin E in the skin, a stability study of vitamin E in the receptor solution without skin was performed, and most of the radioactivity was recovered as o•-tocopherol, suggesting that major metabolism takes place in the skin, not in the receptor solution. The present study suggests that vitamin E undergoes very extensive metabolism during the skin permeation process and that the skin possesses the enzymes responsible for vitamin E metabolism like other tissues. INTRODUCTION Since its isolation from wheat germ oil in 1920 (1), vitamin E has been the subject of extensive research and considered an important lipid-soluble, membrane-bound antiox- idant. It is known to stabilize cellular membranes by preventing lipid peroxidation (2,3). Vitamin E has also been used in many skin care products claiming anti-aging and moisturizing effects (4). Most skin penetration studies have been conducted to demon- strate clinical effects after dermal application of vitamin E, but no quantitative study of skin penetration of vitamin E has been reported. In 1968, Kamimura et al. investigated the histological distribution of [•4C]-ot-tocopheryl acetate and reported that ot-tocoph- eryl acetate was well absorbed into the stratum corneum and into all the layers of the epidermis and dermis with high affinity around blood vessels (5). Kleck also reported that the percutaneous absorption of 5 % vitamin E in ethanol solution showed that 0.2 % of an applied dose was detected in chamber liquid after 16 hours (4). Klein Ae-Ri Cho Lee's present address is College of Pharmacy, Duksung Women's University, Ssangmun-dong, Dobong-ku, Seoul 132-714, Korea. Kakuji Tojo's present address is Kyushu Institute of Technology, College of Computer Science and Systems Engineering, Iizuka, Fukuoka 820, Japan. 85
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