MOISTURIZING EFFECTS OF AA, CAAS, AND TOCOPHEROL 473 tocopherol modulates the antioxidant network and diminishes ultraviolet-induced oxidative damage in murine skin, Br. J. Derrnatol., 138, 207-215 (1998). (21) U. Gi:ini.ilh.i., G. Yener, M. Uner and T. incegi.il, Moisturizing potentials of ascorbyl palmitate and calcium ascorbate in various topical formulations, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci, 26, 31-36 (2004). (22) CK, Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Information and operating instructions for the Corneom eter SM 810® and the software. (23) T. Barlow and J. W. Wiechers, Measuring skin hydration, Costnet. Toiletr., 114, 47-53 (1999). (24) J. W. Wiechers, Comparing instrumental and sensory measurements of skin moisturization, Costnet. Toiletr., 114, 29-34 (1999). (25) S. A. Wissing, A. Lippacher, and R. H. Muller, Investigations on the occlusive properties of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN),j. Cosrnet. Sci., 52, 313-324 (2001).
]. Cosrnet. Sci., 57, 475-485 (November/December 2006) A study correlating between instrumental and consumers' subjective luster values in oriental hair tresses JUN MAN LIM, MIN YOUL CHANG, MUN EOK PARK, TAEK JONG KW AK, JIN JUN KIM, and CHEON KOO LEE, Cosmetic R&D Center, LG Household & Healthcare, Research Park #84, Jang-dong, Yusong-gu, Taejon 305-343 Korea. Accepted for publication August 25, 2006. Synopsis Hair luster has long been a key objective for consumers in the hair care market and many researchers have sought to quantitate the luster of hair fibers or tresses. Recently, a fast polarimetric video camera called SAMBA with a high polarization contrast was introduced that can effectively separate specular and diffuse light. Instrumental measurement of shine using SAMBA was conducted to quantitate the luster on phenyl trimethicone-treated hair tresses. We confirmed with atomic force microscopy that phenyl trimethicone's luster-enhancing effect was related to its reduction of hair surface. Panel tests by 15 untrained panelists were carried out to determine whether their assessment corresponded with instrumental results. The instrumental data showed an excellent correlation with subjective assessments from the 15 panelists. This study shows that SAMBA has utility as an instrumental technique for hair luster evaluation and is in good agreement with consumers' subjective evaluation of luster. INTRODUCTION For many consumers, clean and healthy-looking hair is a high priority when purchasing hair care products. Consumers say that hair is clean and healthy when it looks shiny and elastic. From the perspective of good appearance, hair shine is more important than elasticity because of the attractive visual effect. Therefore, hair shine is a key objective for consumers in the hair care market. Hair luster is associated with the appearance of strongly contrasting, adjacent areas of light and dark caused by various reflective angles of incident light. When incident light strikes a surface, a portion of light is reflected specularly when the angle of reflectance equals the incident angle, or reflected diffusely at angles other than the incident angle. This specular reflectance can be observed as a white reflection when one looks at an object from the specular angle. Consumers describe it as gloss, shine, or luster. Address all correspondence to Jun Man Lim. 475
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