]. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 249-251 (May/June 2008) Abstracts International Journal of Cosmetic Science Vol. 30, No. 1, 2008* Original Article Change in optical properties of stratum comeum induced by protein carbonylation in vitro I. Iwai*, K. Ikuta*, K. Murayama_and T. Hirao* *Shiseido Life Science Research Center, 2-2-1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki-ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan and _Department of Physiology and Biophysics, Graduate School of Medicine, Gifu University, Yanagido, Gifu 501-1194, Japan lchiro Iwai, Shiseido Life Science Research Center, 2-2-1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki-ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan. Tel.:+81 45 590 6387 fax:+81 45 590 6078 e-mail: ichiro.iwai@to.shiseido.co.jp The skin is the frontier against the external environment and continuously exposed to the environmental oxidative stress such as ultraviolet (UV) irradiation. Protein carbonyls are the major oxidative products of protein and may be introduced by reaction with aldehydes derived from lipid peroxide. Acrolein is one of the most reactive aldehydes generated during degradation of lipid peroxides and protein-acrolein adducts have been found in the oxidatively damaged lesion including UV-damaged skin. Recent studies revealed that protein carbonyls are also detected in thin outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC). However, the effect of protein carbonylation on the function of SC was still unclear. In this study, we treated the SC sheets of reconstructed human epidermis and porcine epidermis with acrolein in the experimental conditions to explore the influence of protein carbonylation on the SC. Human and porcine SC sheets treated with acrolein showed less transmission at visible light than untreated SC sheets. Attenuated total reflection-infrared spectroscopy with curve fitting analysis of amide I region showed that acrolein induced alterations in protein secondary structure of the porcine SC sheets, which were accompanied by diminished fibrous keratin structure observed by transmission electron microscopy. These results show the possibility that carbonylation of the SC caused by environmental factors is one of factors altering the fibrous structure of keratin and decreasing the light transmission of SC, which changes the quality of the skin appearance. Review Article In vivo reflectance-mode confocal microscopy in clinical dermatology and cosmetology S. Gonzalez*,t and Y. Gilaberte-Calzadat *Dermatology Service, Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center, New York, NY, USA, tGrupo Dermatologico, Madrid and tDermatology Service, Hospital San Jorge, Av. Mart1'nez de Velasco 34, 22005 Huesca, Spain Salvador Gonzalez, Dermatology Service, Memorial Sloan­ Kettering Cancer Center, 160 East 53rd Street, 2nd Floor, New York, NY 10022, USA. Tel.: +I 212 6100185 fax: +l 212 308 0530 e-mail: gonzals6@rmkcc.org In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) is a non­ invasive imaging tool that allows real-time visualization of cells and structures in living skin with near histological resolution. RCM has been used for the assessment of benign and malignant lesions, showing great potential for applications in basic skin research and clinical dermatology. RCM also reveals dynamic changes in the skin over time an d in response to specific stimuli, like ultraviolet exposure, which makes it a promising tool in cosmetology, as it allows repetitive sampling without biopsy collection, causing no further damage to the areas under investigation. This review summarizes the latest advances in RCM, and its applications in the characterization of both normal and pathological skin. * These abstracts appear as they were originally published. They have not been edited by the journal of Cosmetic Science. 249

250 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE Review Article Novel cosmetic delivery systems: an application update V. B. Patravale and S. D. Mandawgade Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Technology, University Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai 400019, India Vandana B. Patravale, Reader in Pharmaceutics, Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Technology, University Institute of Chemical Technology (UICT), N. P. Marg, Matunga, Mumbai 400 019, India. Tel.: +91 022 24145616 Extn. 425 fax: +91 022 24145614 e-mail: vbpatravale@udct.org World consumers are nowadays more focused on their health and appearance. This trend is creating heightened demand for products formulated with natural and nutraceutical ingredients. Functional ingredients and innovative delivery systems are driving the new product development in the field of cosmetics. A significant number of innovative formulations are now being used in personal care with real consumer-perceivable benefits and optimized sensory attributes, resulting in an economic uplift of cosmetic industry. In fact, the U.S. market alone for novel cosmetic delivery systems has been projected to be more than $41 billion for the year 2007. Novel cosmetic delivery systems reviewed here possess enormous potential as next-generation smarter carrier systems. Original Article Increased carbonyl protein levels in the stratum comeum of the face during winter Y. Kobayashi, I. Iwai, N. Akutsu and T. Hirao Shiseido Life Science Research Center, 2-2-1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki-ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan Tetsuji Hirao, Shiseido Life Science Research Center, 2-2- 1 Hayabuchi, Tsuzuki-ku, Yokohama 224-8558, Japan. Tel.: +81 45 590 6000 fax: +81 45 590 6078 e-mail: tetsuji.hirao@to.shiseido.co.jp The stratum comeum (SC) is the interface be tween the body and the environment, and is continuously exposed to oxidative stress that results in carbonyl modification of proteins. We previously developed a simple and non­ invasive method to assess the stratum comeum carbonyl protein (SCCP) levels. In this study, we used this method to examine the seasonal changes in the SCCP levels and the relationship between the SCCP level and the physiological condition of the SC. SC was collected from the face of healthy Japanese volunteers by adhesive tape stripping and its carbonyl groups were determined by reaction with tluorescein-5-thiosemicarbazide. The average fluorescence intensity of the SC was calculated as the SCCP level. The SCCP level in the cheek was higher in winter than summer. The SCCP level was negatively correlated with the water content in the SC measured by the conductance and capacitance, and also negatively correlated with the extensibility of the skin measured by a Cutometer, suggesting that the mechanical properties of the skin can be affected by oxidative modification of the SC. These data suggest the involvement of oxidative modification of SC proteins in the generation of rough skin during winter. Original Article Confocal Raman microspectroscopy of stratum comeum: a pre-clinical validation study J. Wu and T. G. Polefka Colgate Palmolive Company, 909 River Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854, USA Joanna (Qiang) Wu, Colgate Palmolive Company, 909 River Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854, USA. Tel.: 732-878- 7264 fax: 732-878-7867 e-mail: joanna_wu@colpal.com Skin moisturization is not only important for maintaining skin functional properties but also has great impact on the skin's aesthetic properties. The top layer of the skin, the stratum comeum (SC), plays a key role in protecting and preventing against external aggressions as well as in regulating water flux in and out. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is the first commercially available technique that provides a noninvasive, in vivo method to determine depth profiles of water concentration in the skin, however, in this case it was applied in an in vitro setting. As the first phase of validating the usefulness of confocal Raman microspectroscopy, we used porcine skin as a surrogate for human skin. Water concentration profiles were obtained u sing confocal Raman microspectroscopy from isolated pigskin SC and compared with that using the Karl Fischer titration method. The two methods correlated very well with a regression coefficient of 1.07 as well as a correlation coefficient, R2 = 0.989, which demonstrated the consistency and accuracy of confocal Raman microspectroscopy for water concentration determination. To evaluate the instrument's response to different skin care/cleansing products, a wide range of products were tested to compare their skin moisturization ability. Among those tested were a lotion, commercial soap bar, syndet bar, traditional non-emollient shower gel (water, Sodium Laureth Ether Sulfate (SLES), cocamidopropyl betaine system) and emollient containing shower gel (water, sunflower oil, SLES, cocamidopropyl betaine, glycerin, petrolatum). The results were consistent with what was expected. The water content on skin treated with (A) lotion was significantly higher than the non-treated control (B) syndet bar-treated skin had a significantly higher water content than soap-based bar-treated sites (C) non-emollient shower gel washed sites were more moisturized than soap­ based bar-treated samples and (D) emollient shower gel­ treated skin was significantly more hydrated than nonemollient shower gel washed skin. The unique and direct quantitative water content information provided by confocal Raman microspectroscopy offers a whole new perspective for fundamental skin moisturization studies and will play an important role in evaluating moisturizing profiles and the hydration potential of products designed for personal care in the cosmetic industry.