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J. Cosmet. Sci., 68, 107–113 ( January/February 2017) 107 New targets in the battle against dandruff ESTELLE LOING, ELISABETH LAMARQUE, and MAGALI BOREL, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, IFF, Tour de la Cité, Québec, Canada (E.L.), Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, IFF, 31036 Toulouse Cedex 1 (E.L.), and Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, IFF, 91160 Champlan (M.B.), France. Summary Dandruff is a scalp disorder characterized by fl aking skin and itch of an excessive oily scalp skin. It affects 55% of the global youth and adult population. Seborrheic dermatitis is a similar scalp skin disorder with aggravated itchy rashes and fl aking. Different factors are identifi ed in the dandruff development: increased sebum production, uncontrolled fungal growth of Malassezia strains and individual reaction to pro-infl ammatory environment, and the susceptibility to trigger an immunological response. Using in vitro and ex vivo models, we show that an Epilobium angustifolium extract dose dependently reduces lipid synthesis in sebocytes to a maximum of -43% (1% extract), and protects the epidermis from Malassezia-induced morphological changes. Epilobium angustifolium extract also acts through innovative mechanisms involving regulations of defensins (human beta-defensins [hBD2] and hBD3) and toll-like receptor 2 involved in the immunological response of the skin. The anti-dandruff and sebum-regulating effi cacy of E. angustifolium extract (1.5%) was confi rmed in a clinical study that mobilized 24 volunteers with dandruff and greasy scalp for 30 days. At the end of the study, nonadherent and adherent dandruffs were signifi cantly (p 0.0001) reduced in average by -54% and -48%, respectively. Using Sebumeter® measurements, scalp sebum production was inhibited by -67% (p 0.0001) in average over baseline. In conclusion, E. angustifolium extract offers a new innovative approach to dandruff reduction through immunomodulation of the skin response to Malassezia invasion. INTRODUCTION Dandruff is a common chronic scalp disorder, affecting mostly postpubertal aged persons, but not clearly related to gender or ethnicity. It is characterized by an excessive produc- tion of scalp skin cells, accumulating into oily patches or fl akes, as corneocytes retain their cohesion (1). Alterations concern the whole scalp as changes of the barrier function and infl ammation can be detected deeper beneath the upper layers of the scalp (2). Flakes appear as greasier and infl ammation surfaces in the form of erythema (3), which can spread to body parts with a high density of oil-producing glands. Seborrheic dermatitis (SD) is found in 3–5% of individuals, whereas dandruff concerns more than half of the population (3,4). Recent research focuses on three main factors for the origin of dandruff, namely, increased sebaceous gland activity, oil-feeding fungus Malassezia strains releasing free fatty acids, and individuals’ predisposition to react with an immunological response to pro-infl ammatory free fatty acids released by the fungal colonization (5). Address all correspondence to Estelle Loing at estelle.loing@lucasmeyercosmetics.com.