JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 78 organic chemistries. The silicone elastomer blends provide the ability to formulate a va- riety of drugs in physically stable formulations using different cross-link chemistries, and a range of swelling carrier solvents provide compatibility with a range of other excipients and drugs classes including NSAIDs, potent corticosteroids, and topical anesthetics. The above-referenced test results have demonstrated an ability of silicone elastomer blends to help deliver drugs effi ciently in vitro and modulate delivery profi le using differ- ent solvents or penetration enhancers. Preliminary in vivo results of ibuprofen formula- tions also support in vitro results. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS We acknowledge the use of human cadaver skin provided by the National Disease Research Interchange (NDRI) with support from NIH grant 5 U42 RR006042. REFERENCES (1) H. Aliyar, R. Huber, G. Loubert, and G. Schalau II, Effi cient ibuprofen delivery from anhydrous semi- solid formulation based on a novel crosslinked silicone polymer network: An in vitro and in vivo study, J. Pharm. Sci., 103, 2005–2011 (2014). (2) B. D. Maxon and M. S. Starch, Water-in-oil emulsion for personal care applications, e.g., antiperspi- rants, perfumes and make-ups, comprises linear silicone polyether, alpha, omega-diene crosslinked sili- cone elastomer, and nonionic organic emulsifi er. US patent 20030119779. (3) I. Van Reeth, R. Bao, Y. Kaneta, C. Delvallé, and B. Sillard-Durand, Silicone emulsifi ers and formula- tion techniques for stable, aesthetic products, Cosm & Toil., 126(10), 720 (2011). (4) http://www.mayoclinic.org/drugs-supplements/clobetasol-topical-applicationroute/description/drg- 20073860. (5) http://www.drugs.com/cdi/. (6) http://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/Diclofenac_sodium. (7) http://www.mayoclinic.org/drugs-supplements/lidocaine-topical-application-route/description/ drg-20072776.
J. Cosmet. Sci., 68, 79–84 ( January/February 2017) 79 Typology and atlases of human fi ngernails across ages and ethnicities KELSEY NORWOOD, THERESA CHEN, PhD, and FREDERIC FLAMENT, PhD, L’Oréal USA Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ (K.N., T.C.) and L’Oréal Research & Innovation, Chevilly-Larue, France (F.F.) INTRODUCTION The intense expansion worldwide in the nail categories (care, maintenance, gel nail systems, and traditional nail polish) implies a need for cosmetic research to better understand the range of variations in the appearance of healthy, natural fi ngernails and to ascertain how age and ethnicity could drive nail dimensions. From a consumer perspective, addressing physiological and morphological changes of fi ngernails through the building of a data base is paramount and might, ultimately, affect consumers’ habits or preferences. The work presented here aims to describe how ethnicity and/or age may affect some geometri- cal, structural, or physical properties of the fi ngernails. SUBJECTS The study comprised 280 women, aged 18–70 years, with a self-declared ethnicity of African–American, Asian/Southeast Asian, Caucasian, and Hispanic. The inclusion process required an equal number of subjects based on four ethnic groups and three age-classes range (18–30, 31–50, and 51–70 years). Hence, groups of 12–30 subjects per ethnicity and age class were formed. The fi ngernails of all subjects were carefully examined during the inclusion phase to make sure that they presented at least eight fi ngernails with a free edge of acceptable length. Brittle, peeling, and fl aking nails were acceptable for the study. Any subjects who had known nail diseases were excluded from the study. MATERIALS AND METHODS The collection of typology data included four types of assessments: A) Imaging. Imaging of the nail was done with two types of processes. Address all correspondence to Kelsey Norwood at KNorwood@rd.us.loreal.com.
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