JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 120 Table III Oils in cosmetic formulations Oil Emulsifi er 1 Emulsifi er 2 Viscosity after 1 week (cP) Stability, 1 month at 50° C Avocado PPDO-4 stearate Polypropanediol-4/polyglycerin-3 copolymer sesquistearate 182,000 Passed Avocado PEG-8 distearate PEG-8 stearate 9,400 Failed (after 1 week) Avocado Steareth-2 Steareth-20 81,000 Passed Avocado GMS POE 100 MS 83,000 Passed Caprylic/capric triglyceride PPDO-4 stearate Polypropanediol-4/polyglycerin-3 copolymer sesquistearate 138,000 Passed Caprylic/capric triglyceride PEG-8 distearate PEG-8 stearate 18,000 Failed (after 1 week) Caprylic/capric triglyceride Steareth-2 Steareth-20 83,000 Passed Caprylic/capric triglyceride GMS POE 100 MS 61,000 Passed D5/ dimethicone PPDO-4 stearate Polypropanediol-4/polyglycerin-3 copolymer sesquistearate 224,000 Passed D5/ dimethicone GMS POE 100 MS 16,000 Failed

RENEWABLE PDO AND PETROLEUM-DERIVED ALKYLENE OXIDES 121 Figure 4. Liquid crystals—emulsion made with PPDO-4/ PGly-3 copolymer sesquistearate and PPDO-4 stearate emulsifi ers. Under optical microscope with polarized light at 400× magnifi cation. Formulation 2. Sensory Ingredients % DI water 84.90 Disodium EDTA 0.05 Xanthan Gum 0.25 Lipovol MOS-70 8.00 Lipocol SC (cetearyl alcohol) 1.50 Emulsifi ers A,B,C, or D below 5.00 Preservative 0.30 100.00 bio-based PDO and petroleum-based steareth-20/steareth-2 emulsifi ers passed 1-month stabilities at 50°C for all the oils tested. The bio-based PDO emulsifi ers are versatile and emulsify different types of oils including natural plant-derived oils, esters, and silicones. The emulsifying properties of the renew- able PDO-based emulsifi ers are enhanced by the presence of liquid crystals (Figure 4). The liquid crystals are seen as Maltese crosses (anisotropic) under the polarized light of the optical microscope. The liquid crystals typically form around the oil droplets to help further stabilize the emulsions by forming a barrier against coalescence (13). Sensory evaluations were performed on 10 panelists using the cosmetic emulsions formu- lated with the renewable PDO-based and petroleum PEG–based emulsifi ers (Formula- tion 2, Figure 5). Emulsifi ers have a signifi cant sensory infl uence on initial feel and spreading attributes of the product. The panelists evaluated each of the four lotions, from the initial feel on their skin (fi rmness and cohesiveness) to feel as the lotion was spread around on the skin (smooth, lubricious, aqueous, absorbency, tacky) and then the fi nal feel (waxy, silky, luxurious). The sensory profi le shows that the panelists gave higher rat- ings to the lotion formulated with renewable PDO-based emulsifi ers than lotions with the petroleum PEG–based emulsifi ers. MOISTURIZATION Skin moisturization evaluations were performed on 10 panelists (mixed male and female) using the cosmetic emulsions formulated with the renewable PDO-based and petroleum