JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 136 CONCLUSION The headspace GC instrumentation coupled with the appropriate solid phase microex- traction fi ber or twister bar is very capable of monitoring time-dependent release/retention profi les of fragrance ingredients from the substrate. The results from this study show that a method exists that will be used to further demonstrate the benefi ts of other polymeric ingredients incorporated as foam boosting or deposition aids in surfactant-rich cleansing compositions that can enhance fragrance bloom, release, and retention on skin during the cleansing process. Finally, the presentation will demonstrate that polymeric technology, when combined with microencapsulation routes, will provide the best approach to sig- nifi cantly improve fragrance delivery from rinse-off cosmetics. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The authors would like to thank Robertet team for design of fragrances used in this study. REFERENCES (1) A. Sansukcharearnpon, S. Wanichwecharungruang, N. Leepipatpaiboon, T. Kerdcharoen, and S. Arayachukeat, High loading fragrance encapsulation based on a polymer-blend: Preparation and release behavior, Int. J. Pharm., 391, 267–273 (2010). (2) I. Hofmeister, K. Landfester, and A. Taden, pH-Sensitive Nanocapsules with Barrier Properties: Fragrance Encapsulation and Controlled Release Macromolecules 47(16), 5768–5773 (2014). (3) T. Lukowicz, R. C. Maldonado, V. Molinier, J-M. Aubry, and V. Nardello-Rataj, Fragrance solubiliza- tion in temperature insensitive aqueous microemulsions based on synergistic mixtures of nonionic and anionic surfactants, Colloids Surf A Physicochem Eng Asp 458, 85–95 (2014). (4) B. Jean-Pierre, J. Richard, and C. Thies, Method for preparing microcapsules of active substances coated with a polymer and novel microcapsules in particular resulting from the method. WO 98/13138 A1. (5) A. Bachtsi and C. Kiparissides, Synthesis and release studies of oil-containing poly(vinyl alcohol) micro- capsules created by coacervation, J. Control Release 38, 49–58 (1996). (6) Wang, C. et al. Fragrance release property of β-cyclodextrin inclusion compounds and their application in aromatherapy, J. Ind. Text, 34, 157–166 (2005). (7) F. Lai, S. A. Wissing, R. H. Müller, and A.M. Fadda, Artemisia arborescens L essential oil-loaded solid lipid nanoparticles for potential agricultural applications, AAPS PharmSciTech, 7(1), E2 (2006). Figure 2. GC Area count of linalyl acetate after sample application (A) Initial and (B) after 1h.

J. Cosmet. Sci., 68, 137–140 ( January/February 2017) 137 A unifying theory for visualizing the causes of hair breakage and subsequent strategies for mitigation TREFOR EVANS, TRI-Princeton, Princeton, NJ. INTRODUCTION The performing of constant rate extension experiments to generate stress–strain curves represents one of the most fundamental tests within the hair care industry, and is most commonly used in assessing structural damage imparted by various hair insults. Yet this must be considered a characterization technique, as this one-time catastrophic deformation of samples is not especially representative of real-life habits and practices. The repetitive nature of grooming practices begs an analogy to materials failing under fatiguing condi- tions and this presentation compares and contrasts hair breakage results from these two types of mechanical test. It becomes apparent that extensively different conclusions can arise from performing these two testing approaches on common sets of samples. This forces us to rethink the reasons and causes for hair breakage, and, in doing so, a new approach for conceptualizing this occurrence is proposed. METHODS Both single-fi ber stress–strain and fatiguing experiments on hair were performed using commercially available automated mechanical testing equipment (Dia-Stron Ltd, Andover, UK). These methodologies have been described previously (1–4). All testing was per- formed with equipment housed in benchtop environmental chambers to ensure con- trolled climatic conditions. In certain instances, single-fi ber fatigue experiments were supplemented by automated repeated grooming experiments that were performed on a custom-built device (2,5). RESULTS Figures 1 and 2 show results obtained from testing virgin Caucasian hair under differing climatic conditions. Figure 1 shows the break strength of hair decreasing signifi cantly with increasing relative humidity yet, the S-N curves in Figure 2 show a dramatically larger effect. Address all correspondence to Trefor Evans at trefor.evans@taevans.net.