JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 118 Table II Sustainability of PPDO-4 Stearate on Life Cycle (Compared to PEG-8 Stearate) Sustainability life cycle Materials acquisition Bio-based PDO and sustainable palm derived stearic acid Petroleum based EO monomer and stearic acid Transportation Shipping nonhazardous PDO Shipping hazardous (fl ammable, explosive, and toxic) EO over rails and by truck through cities Manufacturing Safe PDO chemistry and process, reactions at ambient pressures Hazardous EO stored under pressure, sensors required for toxic, fl ammable EO releases, volatile EO reacted at 50 psi pressure. Cosmetic product No residual EO or 1,4-dioxane Residual EO and 1,4-dioxane Design for degradation Readily biodegradable (OECD-301 test) Low biodegradability RIPT tests = did not demonstrate potential for eliciting dermal irritation or sensitization Skin irritation = nonirritant Skin corrosion = noncorrosive Ocular irritancy = nonirritant

RENEWABLE PDO AND PETROLEUM-DERIVED ALKYLENE OXIDES 119 Formulation 1. Personal Care Emulsion Formulation (oils) Ingredients % DI water 81.45 Disodium EDTA 0.05 Glycerin 3.00 Xanthan Gum 0.25 Oil (specifi ed in Table 3) 8.00 Lipocol SC (cetearyl alcohol) 1.50 Emulsifi er 1 3.50 Emulsifi er 2 1.50 Preservative 0.75 100.00 acid ester emulsifi ers were synthesized by reacting PPDO-4 oligomers with plant- derived triglycerol (base catalyzed) to give the more hydrophilic PPDO-4/GLY-3 copo- lymer (12). Reaction of this hydrophilic chain with stearic acid gave the higher ~10 HLB bio-based PPDO-4/polyglycerin-3 copolymer sesquistearate (Figure 3). The latter emulsifi er was analyzed by mass spectrometry (MALDI), and the mass/charge data cen- tered ~800 m/z. SUSTAINABILITY Bio-based PDO cosmetic ingredients led to improvements in the sustainability life cycle when compared to the petroleum-based PEG cosmetic ingredients. Table II illustrates how the initial choice of the bio-based PDO–sustainable raw material infl uences many steps in the sustainable life cycle. RENEWABLE/SUSTAINABLE PDO–BASED EMULSIFIER USED IN COSMETIC PRODUCTS Personal care oil in water emulsions using renewable PDO-based emulsifi ers versus petroleum-based PEG-based emulsifi ers were investigated based on their structure/properties. The petroleum-derived PEG-based emulsifi er combinations were chosen based on the following. PEG-8 stearate/PEG-8 distearate were made from low-molecular-weight oligo- mers as were the PDO-based stearates. The steareth-20/steareth-2 combination covered a higher HLB range between the two emulsifi ers than the PDO-based stearates. The POE100 monostearate/GMS combination is composed of the highest level (100 moles) of EO and is a widely used commercial emulsifi er blend. Basic personal care formulations, using 5 wt% PDO or PEG-based emulsifi ers and three different oils (natural avocado, ester, and silicone), were evaluated. Emulsions with bio- based PDO emulsifi ers produced higher viscosity creams compared to emulsions made with the petroleum-based PEG emulsifi ers (12) (Formulation 1, Table III). Emulsions made with the bio-based PDO emulsifi ers also had better stability compared to the emulsions made with petroleum-based PEG-8 stearate/PEG-8 distearate (avocado and ester oils) and POE100 MS/GMS emulsifi ers (silicone oil). Emulsions made with the