J. Cosmet. Sci., 68, 233–244 (May/June 2017) 233 Color profi les and stability of acylated and nonacylated anthocyanins as novel pigment sources in a lipstick model: A viable alternative to synthetic colorants ALEXANDRA WESTFALL and M. MÓNICA GIUSTI, Department of Food Science and Technology, The Ohio State University, Columbus, OH. Accepted for publication May 6, 2017. Synopsis Cosmetics, such as lipstick, can affect an individual’s perception of attractiveness and morale. Consumer concern with the safety of synthetic colorants has made the need for alternative natural color sources increasingly urgent. Our goal was to evaluate the feasibility of anthocyanin (ACN) extracts as colorants in lipstick formulations. Lipstick formulations were colored with ACN-rich materials. Accelerated environmental testing typical of the cosmetic industry were used: incubation at 20°, 37°, and 45°C for 12 weeks and temperature abuse cycles between 20°/37°C or -20°/20°C. Color (CIELab) and total monomeric ACN (pH- differential) changes were monitored to determine shelf stability of the product. All formulations exhibited acceptable color for lipsticks. Shelf stability was determined to exceed 2 year based on the accelerated testing conditions. Formulations containing cyanidin as their main ACN were the most stable (elderberry, purple corn, and purple sweet potato). ACNs could be used as suitable alternatives to synthetic colorants in lipid- based topical formulations. INTRODUCTION Color is a crucial element for the cosmetic industry because it has a direct and immediate effect on consumer self-perception of attractiveness (1). The strongest evidence for the psychological infl uence of colored cosmetics, such as lipstick, is the phenomenon of in- creased spending by women on attractiveness-enhancing products during times of economic downturn, nicknamed the “lipstick effect” (2). Lipstick has been associated with boosts in morale, as well as increased attractiveness to potential mates, since the Great Depression when lipstick sales skyrocketed unexpectedly (2). Lipsticks are typically colored with synthetic pigments such as D&C Reds #6 (CI 15850), #7 (CI 15850), #28 (CI 45410) FD&C Yellow #5 (CI 19140), and FD&C Blue #1 (CI 42090) however, consumer concerns with the safety of synthetic colorants have been growing in recent years. Eosin- and fl uorescein-based colorants used in cosmetics [D&C Red #21 (CI 45380), D&C Red #22 (CI 45380), and D&C Red #27 (CI 45410)] are often Address all correspondence to M. Mónica Giusti at giusti.6@osu.edu.
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