JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE 320 (13) Y. Z. Hessefort, B. T. Holland, and R. W. Cloud, The porosity measurement of hair: a new way to study hair damage mechanisms, J. Cosmet. Sci., 59, 303–315 (2008). (14) T. Gao, Y. He, P. Landa, and J. M. Tien, Study of hair surface energy and conditioning, J. Cosmet. Sci., 62, 127–137 (2011). (15) J. A. Swift, “Morphology and histochemistry of human hair,” in Formation and Structure of Human Hair, P. Jolles, H. Zahn, and H. Hocker, Eds. (Birkhauser Verlag, Boston, MA, 1997), pp. 165–170. (16) J. W. Rowen and R. L. Blaine, Sorption of nitrogen and water vapor on textile fi bers, J. Res. Natl. Bur. Stand., 39, 479 (1947). (17) M. Spei and H. Zahn, X-ray Small-Angle Examination of Swollen Fibre Keratins, Melliand Textilber., 60, 523 (1979). (18) Y . Kamath, N. S. Murthy, and R. Ramaprasad, Preiminary analysis of the distribution of water in human hair by small angle neutron scattering, J. Cosmet. Sci., 65, 37–48 (2014).
J. Cosmet. Sci., 71, 321–350 (September/October 2020) 321 Current Topical Strategies for Skin-Aging and Infl ammaging Treatment: Science versus Fiction HEBA A. EASSA, MOHAMED A. ELTOKHY, HEBA A. FAYYAZ, MAHA K. A. KHALIFA, SEHAM SHAWKY, NADA A. HELAL, HADEER A. EASSA, SHAMS F. YOUSSEF, ISABEL K. LATZ, and MOHAMED ISMAIL NOUNOU , Department of Pharmaceutics and Industrial Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmacy, AL-Azhar University, Cairo, 11651 Egypt (H.A.E., M.K.A.K., S.S.), Department of Microbiology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Misr International University, Cairo, 12598 Egypt (M.A.E.), Department of Pharmaceutics, Faculty of Pharmacy, Alexandria University, Alexandria, 21521, Egypt (H.A.F., S.F.Y.), Biomedical Engineering Department, College of Engineering, The University of Texas at El Paso, TX 79968 (N.A.H.), Genetic Engineering and Biotechnology Research Institute- University of Sadat City, 32958, Egypt (H.A.E.), Department of Public Health Sciences, College of Health Sciences, The University of Texas at El Paso, TX 79968 (I.K.L.), Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, School of Pharmacy and Physician Assistant Studies, University of Saint Joseph, Hartford, CT 06103 (M.I.N.) Accepted for publication May 12, 2020 Synopsis Aging is a natural phenomenon that affects the whole body, including the skin. As we age, endogenous and exogenous factors cause our skin to become thinner, paler, and wrinkled. Although the underlying mechanisms of the pathogenesis of skin aging are not entirely known, multiple pathways have been proposed. Infl ammaging has recently emerged as a pathway that correlates aging and age-related diseases with infl ammation. This review discusses the role and pathways of infl ammaging that lead to skin aging. Moreover, strategies and current topical approaches for skin-aging treatment are discussed. Studies over the past 10 years suggested that DNA damage and oxidative stress are the most critical mechanisms in skin aging, and both are interlinked with infl ammaging. Several treatments for skin aging have been considered such as antioxidants, hormone replacement therapy, and vitamins. To deliver anti-aging agents topically, researchers adopted numerous approaches to enhance skin penetration including physical, chemical, or biomaterial enhancers and carrier- based formulations. In recent years, consumers’ demands for anti-aging products have considerably risen, leading to robust growth in the anti-aging market. Therefore, further in-depth studies are necessary to understand skin-aging mechanisms and evaluate the effi cacy of anti-aging products to protect consumers worldwide by providing them safe and effective over-the-counter skin-aging formulations. Address all correspondence to Mohamed Ismail Nounou at nounou@uh.edu.
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