339 Photoprotective Effects of Carotenoid
of the measurements were done in triplicates. The cream was kept in a dry place at room
temperature (27 ± 2°C). After 1 month, the evaluation was repeated to check its stability.
EVALUATION OF FORMULATED SUNSCREEN CREAM
The formulated sunscreen cream was analyzed for organoleptic properties such as color, odor,
texture, consistency, and so forth, along with rheological properties such as spreadability,
viscosity, and extrudability. This was according to the guidelines of the Bureau of Indian
Standards, WHO, and the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food
Products,27,28 and it was done on day 0 and the 30th day of the study period.
Spreadability of the cream was tested using the parallel plate method.28 Two glass slides
(20 × 5 cm) were placed on a tripod support. The upper slide was movable, while the lower
slide was secured to the stand. Then, 3 g of the cream was applied at one end of the lower
slide. The cream was compressed between the two slides to a consistent thickness by placing
a weight of 100 g on the slides for 5 minutes, and the surplus cream was scraped off the
edges. The upper slide was then tied with 50 g of weight. The tripod was tilted to a 45°
angle from the end where cream was applied. The duration in seconds was recorded until the
top slide traveled a distance of 10 cm getting separated from the bottom slide. Spreadability
was measured by the time (in seconds) it took to separate the two glass slides by 10 cm. The
shorter the period was, the better the spreadability was. The following formula was used to
calculate the spreadability: S (g.cm/s) =m × l/t, where S =spreadability, m =weight tied
to upper glass slide, l =length of glass slide, and t =time taken to separate them.
To assess the extrudability, the method of Karthika and Jayshree, 201326 was followed.
The cream was filled into standard capped collapsible aluminum tubes, and the ends of
the tubes were sealed. The weight of the tubes was measured, and the tubes were fastened
in place between two glass slides. The cap of the tube was removed, and a weight of
500 g was placed over the glass slides. The amount of cream that had been extruded
was weighed. The percentage of cream extruded was calculated, and one of the following
grades were assigned: 90% Extrudability =Excellent, 80% Extrudability =Good, 70%
Extrudability =Fair, and 50% Extrudability =Poor.
Viscosity of the cream was measured with a Brookfield viscometer (Brookfield Engineering,
Middleboro, MA).29 The correct spindle was selected (spindle no. 64), and the operating
conditions (rpm, torque) were set up. Then, the viscosity (cP) was measured directly at a
speed of 5 rpm by keeping the torque constant.
Table I
Composition of Bc
Components Weight (g)
Isopropyl myristate 7.5
Cetostearyl alcohol 1.25
Stearic acid 12.5
Propyl paraben 0.05
Liquid paraffin 15.0
Triethanolamine 4.7
Glycerine 9.0
Water 50.0
Total 100 g
340 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
MEASUREMENT OF UV PROTECTION EFFICACY
In vitro. Spectrophotometric determination of SPF was done using a UV–Vis
spectrophotometer (Bio-Rad Laboratories, Hercules, CA), and SPF of the cream was
calculated using a Mansur equation.30 In addition, a UVA ratio, a Boots Star rating (as
prescribed by European Cosmetics standards),31 and critical wavelength tests (as prescribed
by the FDA and Colipa)32 were carried out to determine UV protection efficacy of formulated
cream. The tests were carried out on day 0 and the 30th day of the study period.
STABILITY EVALUATION OF THE CREAM
Stability of the cream was assessed on day 0 and the 30th day of the study period.
Centrifugation test. The cream was centrifuged at 3,500 rpm for 10 minutes, and the cream
was observed for the phase separation.33
Thermal stability test. A 20 mm-wide and 5 mm-thick strip of cream was applied on the
internal wall of a beaker with a capacity of 100 mL. The oil separation from the cream was
evaluated for 8 hours at 37 ± 1°C and 60% to 70% relative humidity.34
pH measurement. A total of 1 g of the cream was dispensed in 9 mL of distilled water to
determine the pH at 27°C using a pH meter.35
Rancidity test. A total of 10 mL of melted cream was mixed with 10 mL of concentrated
HCl and 10 mL of phloroglucinol solution and agitated for 1 minute to perform the
rancidity test.29 If there was no formation of pink color, the material passed the rancidity
test, showing its oxidative stability.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
PREFORMULATION STUDIES
Assessment of antioxidant activity of carotenoid extract. In this study, antioxidant activity of the
carotenoid extracted from R kroppenstedtii was assessed by DPPH and FRAP assay. Figure
2A and 2B depict the concentration-dependent increase in DPPH scavenging activity by
ascorbic acid and carotenoid extract, respectively. The IC
50 of carotenoid extract was found
to be 530 ± 0.6 µg/mL, whereas the IC
50 value of the standard ascorbic acid was found to
be 3.1 ± 1.67 µg/mL. The RSA of the carotenoid extract was not comparable with that of
standard ascorbic acid, which could be due to interfering substances in the extract.
The FRAP of the carotenoid was determined from the calibration curve of ascorbic acid
(Figure 3), and it was found to be 56 ± 0.006 µg/mL in the ascorbic acid equivalent per mg
of the crude extract. The ferric ion reducing ability may improve with purification of crude
extract for future studies.
UV rays are among the major contributing factors of premature skin aging and sunburn.
UVA rays penetrate deeply into the skin, causing breakdown of elastin and collagen fibers.36
This therefore leads to wrinkling and aging. UVB rays, on the other hand, do not infiltrate
the skin deeply, inducing erythema on the skin’s surface.12 UVA rays and UVB rays both
generate a buildup of ROS. Antioxidants, such as carotenoids, can effectively neutralize
free radicals before they cause harm to the skin. A carotenoid-based sunscreen can thus
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