80 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS but forerunners to the use of the organo functional silanes which by their reactive nature will be much more effective with fewer of the undesirable properties. A better understanding of the role of lipoids, vitamins and hormones will allow for greater and more effective usage. Greater concentrations of products containing hormones will be possible by the use of vehicles which will keep all physiological activity at a local level, thereby giving more beneficial cosmetic results. Allergic sensitization will be cut to a minimum by either the incorpora- tion of antihistamine products or other compounds developed in the pharma- ceutical trade for such treatment. This work incidentally will develop more specific methods for evaluation of the irritating potentials of cosmetics. Once again resorting to cosmetics which will be classified as drugs, there is little doubt, regardless of the current block on the over-the-counter sales of cortisone, that such materials and particularly antibiotics will play an ever- increasing role in cosmetic creams. Such topically applied products will be extremely effective due to the vehicles limiting their absorption to the upper layers of the skin. No systemic activity will thereby result. These more active germicidal products will further aid in the remedy of skin diseases. Also, we undoubtedly are moving into an era of more beauti- ful women. Dietary knowledge will ease the work of the cosmetic chemist. Better hygiene, nourishment and medical attention will prevent the develop- ment of the poor skin of years past. Many persons have problems of hyper-pigmentation. These, too, will be solved. Already we know of the action of the monobenzylether of hydro- quinone (3). This compound, while effective in preventing the formation of melanin, has been often found troublesome in creating allergic dermati- tis. I am confident that through the investigation of the physiology of skin pigmentation, other agents will be found that are innocuous. How- ever, here again, it is possible that a base may be devised to offset any allergic sensitization. Another effective product for the prevention of hyperpigmentation was reported in the yourhal of Investigative Dermatology (4). This article states that the use of 8-methoxy psoralen taken internally shows evidence of regulation in skin tanning. Our Mrs. Veronica Conley in Today's Health (5) has pointed out the toxic side effects of this drug which is ex- tracted from the Egyptian plant--Ammi Majus Linn. Here again, we have a lead toward the development of a cosmetic product, classified also as a drug, that, if applied topically in the proper vehicle, would offer a new basic improvement. It is interesting to note that oral administration of the drug decreases the erythemic response of the skin to ultraviolet rays whereas topical use increases the reaction.
LOOKING INTO THE FUTURE 81 This year, as you know, Dr. Walter Shelley was awarded our SOC•ET¾'S Second $1000 Special Award. This is good evidence of the regard we hold for deodorant-antiperspirant work. Surely with such basic work being accomplished, we are in for some new approaches to an age-old problem. More effective, longer lasting bactericidal agents will be developed. Shel- ley has shown that by the use of neomycin (6), antibiotics can be incor- porated giving longer deodorant activity. It may be that such products can be formulated also into bathing compounds thereby giving more effective deodorization than that presently achieved by hexachlorophene and soap. Ion exchange resins also offer opportunity for further study. A great deal of basic work is being done on the problem of antiperspir- ants. It is my hope that soon we will have published some good method that our industry can use for the evaluation of such products. Surely this will appear in the not too distant future, and we will then be able to measure on a controlled basis the comparative value of the many new salts being introduced. It would appear that polyvalent metallic salts have reached the optimum level of astringent activity. If this be so, possibly it would be well to give further study to the use of anticholinergic drugs reviewed by Kalish (7) and Klarmann (8). Properly compounded in a base limiting the area of activity, a new approach to arresting the excretion of perspiration is achieved by the control of the nerves which activate the sweat glands. Now that we have dealt with the physiologically active ingredients"and their relations to skin treatment and care, I would like to add a few thoughts regarding the field of cosmetics which to date has been the "breadSand butter" end of our industry. I speak specifically of make-up. Recently, July 31, 1956, to be exact, I was interested in reading in a United Press article (9) that I was not the only one concerned with the problem of how women will look in the future. Reading further, my suspicions were confirmed, it was stated that our fellow member, "Dr. Joseph Schultz envisions the day when a boy will fall for a girl because of her green hair and blue lips. Maybe her complexion will be orange, etc. Dr. Schultz, President of Lanolin Plus, also believes women someday may wear semi-permanent makeup, which would last indefinitely. It would make them easier to look at in the morning." Whereas I do respect Dr. Schultz's opinion, particularly in relation to women, and I do defer to his sage advice and his methods for stimulating thought, I do not quite go this far .... Undoubtedly women as well as men will be more colorful, but I do not believe that in the foreseeable future there will be much change in the basic coloring patterns. As with the other items for the skin that I mentioned, I believe the greatest changes will be in marketing products that are less irritating, more convenient to use with greater permanency of effect.
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