JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS 511 of the 16 chapters. Ten of them have historical-geographical mean- ings going back to antiquity, the remaining six chapter headings read like a pot-pourri extracted from all existing publications on perfumery and its application: Chapter XI, "The Lure of Perfumes and Odours" (12 pages). XII, "The Production of Natural Perfumes" (11 pages). XIII, "The Classification of Odours and the Use of Synthetics" (12 pages). XIV, "Perfumed Toilet Waters" (13 pages). XV, "An ABC of Perfume" (19 pages). XVI, "The Choice of Perfume and the Art of Make-Up" (13 pages). The first ten chapters make in- teresting reading, particularly for the scholar who is anxious to delve into ancient history. They tell the story of how women and men have attempted throughout the ages to "beautify" themselves by the use of odoriferous substances (wrongly called "Perfumes"), further by ap- plication of anything that could be spread on the skin, or into which the hunnan body could be immersed. Some twenty excellent reproduc- tions of antique woodcuts and re- liefs, showing vases, perfumed gloves, tapestries, pots, vessels, perfume jugs, scent bottles, man- uscripts, medieval perfume shops, ancient distilleries and perfumers' laboratories, augment the reader's historical enlightenment in the field of "beauty," perfumes, cosmetics and all that goes with them. Some of this has become known by books previously published, particularly by the historical part of Poucher's volumes and C. J. S. Thompson's "Mystery and Lure of Perfume." Some hundred or more poetic cita- tions dealing with perfumes and beautifying agents are spread over the entire b6ok and reveal a great deal of search of the literature of many nations, done by the author, a former British schoolmaster, lec- turer, journalist, book author and public relations man Why the author felt that he had to add a f•w "technical" chapters to this beautiful historical survey remains a mystery. Much of the information contained in these chap- ters is extracted (and poorly copied) from Poucher's books. Misleading information could certainly have been avoided, such as the constant use of the term "perfume" for what is known as an essential oil, the use of "alcohol solvent--the Am- bergris Extract" (page 26) for what is known as "Tincture Ambergris," or sentences such as "From Geraniol is obtained the perfume of rose- geranium," or "even the odor of musk can be artificially reproduced" ("approximated" would certainly be more accurate). Or, "The wood of Bols de Rose trees is the source of the finest Linaloe Oil ("Linalool" is meant). Under the heading "An A, B, C, of Perfume" (Chapter XV) the author states that a thou- sand or more materials are used in modern perfumery but that the chapter must be restricted to "some of the more important of them." The mix-up of information given therein certainly is complete, as you see such materials mentioned as Avocado oil (for protecting the skin), Quince, Rice Starch, Traga- canth, Talc, Tea, Tobacco or Asa- fetida gum, in the company of Champaca, Jasmin, Jockey Club, Lotus, Coumarin, Exaltolide, San- dalwood, Patchouli and Bergamot (but no Lavender Oil), among many others. The very strikingly designed colored jacket of this book bears a note which reads "Whether you are the Perfume Buyer of a Depart- ment Store, a Historian in search of Information, or merely looking for entertainment, ESSENCE OF BEAUTY cannot fail to be of ab- sorbing interest. To which I would
512 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS like to add: That I pity the buyer of a department store who believes he is getting up-to-date information on perfumes he deals with, that I advise the Historian to close the book when he reaches the technical part, and that I recommend read- ing all of the chapters if you are merely looking for entertainment.-- OL•WR L. MARTO•, Shulton, Inc. STATEMENT REQUIRED BY THE ACT OF AUGUST 24, 1912, as amended by the acts of March 3, 1933, July 2, 1946 and June 11, 1960 (74 Stat. 208) showing the ownership, management and circula- tion of THE JouRsAL or THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS, published five times a year at Easton, Pennsylvania, for October 1, 1960. 1. The names and addresses of the publisher, editor, managing editor and business managers are: Publisher, Maison G. deNavarre, 404 Lothtop Road, Grosse Pointe Farms 36, Michigan, editor, same, managing editor, same, business manager, same. 2. The owner is: (If owned by a corporation, its name and address must be stated and also im- mediately thereunder the names and addresses of stockholders owning or holding 1 per cent or more of total amount of stock. If not owned by a corporation, the names and addresses of the individual owners must be given. If owned by a partnership or other unincorporated firm, its name and address, as well as that of each individual member, must be given.) Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Inc., a Delaware Corporation, 2 East 63rd Street, New York 21, New York. 3. The known bondholders, mortgagees and other security holders owning or holding 1 per cent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other securities are: (If there are none, so state.) None. 4. Paragraphs 2 and 3 include, in cases where the stockholder or security holder appears upon the books of the company as trustee or in any other fiduciary relation, the name of the person or corporation for whom such trustee is acting also the statements in the two paragraphs show the affiant's full knowledge and belief as to the circumstances and conditions under which stockholders and security holders who do not appear upon the books of the company as trustees, hold stock and securities in a capacity other than that of a bona fide owner. 5. Tho average number of copies of each issue of this publication sold or distributed, through the mails or otherwise, to paid subscribers during the 12 months preceding the date shown above was: (This information is required by the act of June 11, 1960, to be included in all statements regardless of frequency of issue.) 1700. M. G. deNavarre (Signature of publisher) Sworn to and subscribed before me this 20th day of September, 1960. Albert E. O'Neal (Seal) (My commission expires November 5, 1963)
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