746 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Maruzzella and his co-workers (1) have demonstrated the antifungal and antibacterial properties of an extensive list of perfume materials ranging from frankincense and myrrh of Biblical times to sophisticated new aroma- tics created in our laboratories. Perfumes were not long confined to use at religious ceremonies or funeral processions. The nobility (and any others who could afford them) found that these fragrant unguents added a certain charm to their persons, and the practice of using redolent substances soon spread to the commoners (2). Thus, from their early sacred as- sociations, perfumes became secular items. While cosmetics in early civilizations were confined to the female sex, not so with fragrant preparations. In many periods, perfume was more widely employed among the males, and in many areas its use was the exclusive prerogative of the most masculine, athletic, and war-like of men. Today we find history repeating itself. Once again men have discovered that fragrance adds to their good grooming, and they are vying with women to make themselves more fragrant. Sales in men's toiletries, such as after- shave lotions, colognes and other products designed to leave pleasant scents on the user have outstripped sales of perfumes for women in the United States (3). The popularity of fragrance throughout the ages has been based on its appeal to the user or beholder through his sense of smell. Not many have realized, however, the contribution that the fragrant portion of our toiletry items makes in functional areas as opposed to its purely aesthetic effects. The discovery of the relationship which exists between micro6rganisms and disease, which occurred around the beginning of the 19th century, brought forth a more extensive use of essential oils and their isolates, specif- ically for the purpose of controlling microbial growth. At first only crude and natural materials were employed. As various processes were perfected, and as knowledge of chemistry and perfumery adw•nced, the respective constituent oils were obtained and separated into component parts (4). Among the earliest to recognize and describe antimicrobial activities of essential oils were Schonbein in 1840, as noted by Cade (5), Miller in 1892 (6), and Freudenreich in 1889 (7). The antibacterial properties of perfumes were first demonstrated in 1924 by Dyche-Teague, who applied the phenol coefficient technique to a mixed bacterial culture obtained from nasal secretion (8). In the same year Bryant confirmed these findings, using a pure culture of E. coli (9). While sets of experimental data may be accurate in themselves, the test conditions differ widely thus no accurate comparison between their results can be made. Some experimenters have used pure oils, while others employed extracts of natural products with and without added essences and even mixtures of unknown composition. For these reasons, the literature on the germicidal and antiseptic properties of essential oils is often confusing and of little

EFFECTS OF AFTER-SHAVE LOTIONS ON SKIN FLORA 747 value for comparative purposes. Likewise, formulations highly active against one species of micro6rganism may be far less effective against another. This also applies to various strains of the same test organism. The process of shaving even under the most ideal conditions involves significant skin trauma. The careful selection of a shaving instrument and a shaving preparation cannot always be depended upon to leave the face feeling refreshed and comfortable. After-shave lotions, an important part of a man's good-grooming kit, have been used, promoted and evaluated mainly on the basis of fragrance. Some lotions, of course, do contain moisturizers and other active ingredients to supplement and complement the shaving preparation. An ideal after-shave lotion should soothe minor cuts and abrasions, reduce the possibility of infection, and give the user an over-all sense of well-being. After-shave lotions usually are alcoholic, although, less frequently, emulsified versions have appeared. The popular after-shave lotions contain between 40 and 60% ethyl alcohol by volume, and in the United States specially denatured alcohol formulas #39 C and 40 C are the most widely used. Emolliency is imparted to after-shave lotions usually by the use of humec- rants. Low concentrations of polyols, such as glycerol, propylene glycol or sorbitol are generally employed. The use of bland antiseptics in all types of shaving preparations has been recommended as a prophylactic measure (10). Nonirritating and nonsensitizing antiseptics which are compatible with the formulations and are not inactivated by soap and other surfactants can be used. The use of topical antibiotics in preparations of this type should be discouraged because resistant strains of bacteria are likely to arise which may acquire cross-resistance to antibiotics of similar chemical structure used systematically. Finished formulations containing any antiseptic must, of course, be thoroughly tested for safety and effectiveness. As an aid in soothing the skin, a mild topical anesthetic, such as benzyl alcohol, may be added to the formulation. The most important portion of an after-shave lotion, and the hardest one to test, is the fragrance. What constitutes a suitable and intriguing perfume and, more important, which fragrance will find immediate and continuing consumer acceptance, are far more diMcult to determine than sensitivity, freedom from irritation and microbiological activity. In order to isolate the antimicrobial action of the perfume and to be sure that the measured effects were due to the fragrant portion of the lotion, a series of solutions were prepared containing the basic ingredients used in after-shave lotions in various combinations. Also measured were the effects obtained by adding antiseptics to these solutions, and a series of commercial after- shave lotions selected from among the top brands in this country and Europe were tested.