Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Great Britain DIPLOMA EXAMINATION Brunel College PAPER I (Wednesday, 24th June 1964.) Candidates should answer FIVE questions only one question from each section. Each answer must be commenced on a separate sheet of paper or book. Where possible, express relationships and reactions in equations with a full explanation of symbols used, and give simple sketches where appropriate. SECTION A 1. With particular emphasis on the nature and importance of side chains, describe the way in which the polypeptide chains of hair keratin can be built up from simple compounds. To what extent and under what conditions are the cross linkages modified during a permanent waving process ? 2. A coloured substance is of value in hair colourants only if it can be attached to the hair. Discuss the various methods which can be used to ensure satisfactory uptake with reference to (a) the chemical constitution of the dye molecule and (b) the environment of the dye molecules. To what extent can the present dye products be considered as ideal hair colourants. .3. Discuss with specific examples the formulation of the following hair- dressing products :-- (i) Liquid brilliantines. 4S

46 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (ii) Two layer lotions. (iii) Water in oil emulsions. (iv) Aerosol hair sprays. SECTION B 4. Discuss the uses of the separate ingredients in the face powder formula given below. Suggest any improvements which you think could be made to this formula. of /o Talc 15.0 Kaolin 65.0 Precipitated chalk 5.0 Titanium dioxide 4.5 Magnesium stearate 5.0 Magnesium carbonate 1.0 Perfume 0.5 Iron oxide colours 4.0 5. You are given the job of setting up a department for the manufacture of lipsticks. Discuss the items of equipment required, and considera- tions of services, storage and layout. 6. Discuss considerations of safety-in-use of lipsticks. What studies are required in order to estimate the toxicity of a raw material for use in lipsticks ? SECTION C 7. Why is it necessary to have more than one propellant available for pressure packs ? Illustrate your answer by describing how the right balance of propellants would be arrived at in formulating a pressure packed hair spray. 8. What factors would you take into account in determining the shelf life of a brushless shaving cream to be packed into a collapsible tube ? How would you assess these factors ? SECTION I) 9. Give an account of the structure and properties of the bacterial spore with particular reference to those features which make it resistant to the action of antiseptics.