68 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS vices in reviewing labels and advertising matter have been much appre- ciated by T.G.A. members. Hal formed the Scientific Section of T.G.A., the first scientific group devoted solely to consideration of cosmetic problems. He also did everything he could to make possible the foundation of the S.C.C., and his efforts were a factor in the subsequent success of this Society. He has consistently sought cooperation between T.G.A. and S.C.C. for their mutual benefit. The Handbook of Cosmetic Materials, by Greenberg & Lester, much utilized by cosmetic chemists, was published as a result of very extensive organizing and expediting efforts on the part of Hal Goulden. He wrote the sections on manufacture for the six booklets on cosmetics distributed by T.G.A. to many thousands of U.S. schools. These booklets have introduced countless youths to our industry and its products. Hal has continuously preached research, research, and more re- search to industry executives. In innumerable cases he has pointed out the need for better laboratory facilities. He has shown management the need for competent chemists and the reasons for rewarding thek efforts. He has a strong belief in a great future for the cosmetic in- dustry, firmly based on scientific effort. This belief has been contagious and has been a remarkable and rare contribution to the art and science of cosmetics. For all these reasons, I am most happy in leading the Society of Cos- metic Chemists in its recognition of Harold DeWitt Goulden as a worthy recipient of the Society's Medal.

FIFTEENTH MEDAL AWARD 69 Of Concern to the Cosmetic Chemist H. D. Goulden* You will agree, I am sure, that science has played an increasingly important role in the development of the cosmetic industry. The scien- tific method has largely replaced the empiricism of the past. Science has become so important that management of the larger companies find it convenient, if not essential, to "house" the company's chief scientist in their executive offices, where he is readily available for con- sultation. I would like to discuss a few matters that are of concern to the cosmetic scientist. There seems to be very little doubt that new cosmetic legislation will be enacted. The question is merely--when? One cannot forecast what this legislation may be, but recently proposed legislation makes certain trends apparent. Such legislation is so interwoven with science that the best interests of the industry will be served if all proposed legis- lation is carefully considered by the scientist. Let me illustrate by example: Recently proposed legislation, among other things, made it quite clear that a New Cosmetic Application would be required before a new cosmetic may be marketed, and such an application must contain a full list of the articles used as components of the new cosmetic and must con- tain a full statement of the composition of the cosmetic. It is not un- reasonable to expect that some did not particularly object to the pro- posal. Most know what ingredients they are using to make a particular cosmetic therefore, they know its composition. But do they? Let us study this in greater detail. A simple lipstick formula was selected, and the chemical constituents in each of the ten ingredients, where known, were listed. Such a simple formula actually contained over 120 individual known chemicals and many unknowns. A perfumer friend supplied a simple perfume for- mula. Similarly, the components of each ingredient were listed where known. This raised the grand total to more than 250 and an undeter- mined number of unknown constituents. Can one forecast what will hap- pen when such a mixture is processed into a lipstick ? It is apparent that a * The Toilet Goods Association, 1270 Avenue of the Americas, New York, N.Y. 10020