358 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS aration with respect to cooling property, and others exist which are su- perior. The results obtained by altering the formula, although by no means showing a significant increase of cooling action, nevertheless show that with adequate scale experimentation the USP formula could be mod- ified to give good cooling action. (Received October 21, 1971) REFERENCES (1) Sulzberger, M. B., Wolf, J., and Witten, V. H., Dermatology--Diagnosis and Treatment, Year Book, Chicago, 1961, pp. 571,574-5. (2) Pilsbury, D. M., Shelley, W. B., and Kligman, A.M., Dermatology, Saunders, Philadel- phia, 1957, pp. 890-1,898. (3) Masters, E. J., Cleansing Creams and Lotions, in Sagarin, E., Cosmetics--Science and Technology, Interscience, New York, 1957, pp. 81-2, 84. (4) Barnett, G., Emollient Creams and Lotions, in Sagarin, E., Cosmetics--Science and Tech- nology, Interscience, New York, 1957, pp. 102-9. (5) Ibid., pp. 109-10. (6) Burton, A. C., Physiology of Cutaneous Circulation, Thermoregulatory Functions, in Rothman, S., The Human Integument, American Association for the Advancement of Science, Washington, D.C., 1959, pp. 77-87. (7) USP XVIII, Mack Publishing Co., Easton, Pa., 1970, p. 143. (8) Martin, E., Remington's Pharmaceutical Sciences, Mack, Easton, Pa., 1965, p. 537. (9) Typical Cosmetic Formulations Ilustrating the Use o[ Atlas Sorbitol and Sur[actants, Atlas Powder Co. (Chemical Div.), Wilmington, Del., 1967, p. 25. (10) Ibid., p. 26. (11) A Guide to Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Formulation with Atlas Products, Atlas Powder Co. (Chemical Div.), Wilmington, Del., 1954, p. 30. (12) Ritschel, W. A., Zur pharmazeutischen Mikrobi•ologie bei der Entwickzung yon Externa am Beispiel des a,a-Dicydopencylessigs•iure--diSthylamino--Sthylester--bromoctylats (Ug 767). Arz.-Forsch., 18, 142 (1968). (13) Typical Cosmetic Formulations Ilustrating the Use oj• Atlas Sorbitol and Surj•actants, Atlas Powder Co. (Chemical Div.), Wilmington, Del., 1967, p. 5. (14) List, P. H., Braun, H., and Varnhold, H., K/ihlsalben und ihre K/ihleffekte, Deut. Apoth. Ztg., 109, 685 (1969). (15) Tronnier, H., f)ber die Wirkungsweise indifferenter Salben und Emulsionsysteme an der Haut in A bh•ingigheit yon ihrer Zusammen-Setzung, Editio Cantor, Aulendorf, West Germany, 1964, p. 91.
]. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 23, 359-370 (May 23, 1972' The Thermomechanical Analysis of Natural and Chemically Modified Human Hair W. T. HUMPHRIES, M.S., D. L. MILLER, Ph.D., and R. H. WILDNAUER, Ph.D.* Prese•ted February 7, 1972, North American Thermal Analysis Society, Waco, Texas Synopsis--THERMOMECHANICAL ANALYSIS (TMA) measures the VISCOELASTIC and DIMENSIONAL PROPERTIES of HAIR and can be utilized as a technique to monitor damage and CHEMICAL MODIFICATION. The thermally induced viscoclastic and dimen- sional changes are presented for hair from --50 to 325øC. The results for untreated hair differ significantly from samples which have been crosslinked, oxidized, reduced, supercon- tracted, and cxposed to various organic solven[s. The TMA data are complemented by DIF- FERENTIAL THERMAL ANALYSES and THERMOGRAVIMETRY to identify heat and weight changes associated with these dimensional and viscoelastic changes. INTRODUCTION It is widely accepted that the mechanical properties of hair, which are important in its acceptable cosmetic performance, are strongly influ- enced by their immediate physical and chemical environment. Much ex- perimental evidence has accrued suggesting the role that the morphologi- cal and macromolecular organization plays in the unique mechanical properties of hair and wool (1). These data have been of both fundamen- tal interest and practical value in providing a basis for the present ad- vances in hair care which allow selective alteration of many hair proper- ties as well as an improved understanding of the mechanism by which Department of Skin Biology, Johnson & Johnson Research, New Brunswick, N.J. 08903. 359
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