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J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 23, 887-898 (December 6, 1972) Methods Used in the Analysis of Shampoos R. F. SCHUBERT, B.S., and P. H. KO, B.S.* Presented October 11, 1971, Joint Symposium of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and the Association of O•cial Analytical Chemists, Washington, D.C. Synopsis--Modern SHAMPOOS are designed not only to clean the hair and scalp, but to impart conditioning properties, fragrance, luster, and other attributes to hair. As a consequence, the ANALYSIS of a shampoo becomes a complicated exercise in separation and identification of components, calling on many of the disciplines of modern analytical chemistry. The literature on shampoo analysis is reviewed and some older schemes of analysis are dis- cussed. A proposed scheme for the analysis of a modern shampoo using a combination of SOLVENT EXTRACTION and ION EXCHANGE SEPARATION is presented. INTRODUCTION Schwartz and Perry (1) and others state that the main requisites of a shampoo are: (a) it must clean the hair and scalp (b) it must leave the hair lustrous (c) it must leave the hair soft rather than harsh and dry (i.e., it must provide conditioning) (d) it must rinse off easily and com- pletely enough not to interfere with subsequent treatment (e) it must not be irritating and (f) it must be esthetically pleasing in odor, physical form, visual impact, etc. To achieve these properties, many popular brands of shampoos are based on mixtures of synthetic detergents or syn- thetic detergents and soap (2, 3). Soap in such mixtures is generally not present as a detergent, but rather as a conditioner. The physical forms of shampoos found in the market place include clear liquids, liquid creams (or lotions), pastes, gels, aerosols, and powders * The Gillette Company, Personal Care Division, Merchandise Mart, Chicago, Ill. 60654. 887