898 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) Puttnam, N. A., Baxter, B. H., Lee, S., and Stott, P. L., Application of attenuated total reflectance infrared spectroscopy to toilet articles and household products. II. Quan- titative analysis, Ibid., 177 9-16 (1966 ). Schwarz, G. W. G., Possibilities and limitations of shampoo analysis, Ibid., 17, 737-44 (1966). Epton, S. R., New methods for the rapid titrimetric analysis of sodium alkyl sulfates and related compounds, Trans. Faraday Soc., 44, 226 (1948). Barr, T., Oliver, J., and Stubbings, W. V., The determination of surface active agents in solution, J. Soc. Chem. Ind., 67, 45-8 (1948). Yoshikawa, K., Nishina, T., and Takehana, K., Thin-layer chromatography of deter- gents. I. Simultaneous analysis of commercial liquid shampoos and liquid dishwashing detergents by TLC, Yukagaku, 15, 65-72 (1966) Chem. Abstr., 64, 11445 (h), (1966). Fairchild, (2. M., and Kabacoff, B. L., Analytical chemistry of zinc pyrithione, VI, pre- sented at semi-annual meeting of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, New York, May 8, 1969. (27) Graber, M. B., Domsky, I. I., and Ginn, M. E., Thin-layer chromatographic method for identification of germicides in personal care products, J. Amer. Oil Chem. Soc., 46, 529-31 (1969). (28) Jones, J. H., Newburger, S. H., Champion, M. H., Kottemann, C. M., and Gross, F. C., Gas chromatography in cosmetic analysis, Proc. Joint Conf. Cosmet. $ci., 75-89 (1968), Toilet Goods Assoc., Washington, D.C. Chem. Abstr., 70, 109096 (g), (1969). (29) Gross, F. C., and Jones, J. H., Determination of propylene glycol in cosmetics by gas chromatography, J. Ass. Offc. Anal. Chem., 50, 1284-6 (1967). (30) Fairchild, C. M., Analytical chemistry in the cosmetics industry, Anal. Chem., $9 (10), 22A-24A, 26A, 28A, 30A, 32A, and 34A (1967). (31) Jones, J. H., General colorimetric method for determination of small quantities of sul- fonated or sulfated surface-active compounds, •/. Ass. Offc. Agr. Chem., 28• 398-409 (1945 ) Chern. Abstr., $9, 3951 (q), (1945). (32) Kecskemethy, L., Szamoskozi, Z., Weber, C., and Bozoki, G., Qualitative and quan- titative analysis of perfumes by uv spectrophotometry, Olaj, Szappan, Kozmet, 17, 23-6 (1968). (33) Ginn, M. E., and Church, C. L., New columnar and mixed-bed ion exchange methods for surfactant analysis and purification, Anal. Chem. $1,551-5 (1959). (34) Ross, L. U., and Blank, E. W., Error in the determination of the active ingredient in de- tergent products, J. Amer. Oil Chern. Soc., $,}, 70 (1957).

dr. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 23, 899--911 (December 6, 1972) Application of Physical Chemistry in Product Development HOSNY Y. SAAD, Ph.D., and E. GRIFFIN SHAY, M.S.* Presented December 13, 1971, New York CYty Synopsis--Basic physical-chemical theories are related to FORMULATION PARAMETERS. Designing a product on the basis of these principles aids the chemist in understanding the mechanisms involved, and enables him to modify and alter the physical features and chemical properties of the product to be marketed. The effects of ELECTROKINETIC PHENOM- ENA and of CRITICAL MICELLE CONCENTRATION on a variety of product types are discussed in a manner which provides guidance for future work. The physical-chemical princi- ples of EMULSION formulation are discussed and related to emulsion separation, creaming, and graininess. Particle size, pigment wetting, particle-particle aggregation, and adhesion are related in a physical-chemical manner to typical COSMETIC PRODUCTS. Shelf-life determinations and performance characteristics are demonstrated to be associated with several of these prin- ciples. INTRODUCTION The scientific cosmetic field is now being faced with its biggest challenge in its long history. The state of the art now is still fluctuating between trial and error development approaches and glimpses of scien- tifically based approaches. This situation should not, however, be too distressing. By analogy, the pharmaceutical industry had to face this same challenge in the late 1950's, when the industry and its scientists came to realize that good, stable, aesthetic products could no longer be developed by simply basing them on art and practical know-how. The pharmaceutical industry recognized the need for adapting and reshaping, to meet its own needs, the overabundance of basic chemical information that was available in the literature. * Avon Products, Inc., Suffern, N.Y. 10901. 899