COSMETIC INGREDIENT COMEDOGENICITY 219 o=

220 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Figure 3. Comedogenic Grade 4. Enlarged follicles containing copious amounts of loosely arranged horny material resulted from applications of Grape Seed oil. (x 70) existence of large coinedones resulting from applications of potent acnegens, such as coal tar. Although this scoring system is similar to others (7-8), Mills and Kligman (12), using a four-point scale to evaluate comedogenic effects of detergent products, assigned a "ten" grade to effects produced by coal tars. In agreement with Kligman and Katz (15), we found naked eye assessment to be unreliable and judged comedogenic activity solely by microscopic evaluation. Table IV Comedogenic Activity of Esters of Fatty Acids Chemical Comedogenic Test Sample Trade Name Supplier Grade Decyl Oleate Ceraphyl-140 Van Dyk & Company, Inc. 3 Isodecyl Oleate Ceraphyl-140A Van Dyk & Company, Inc. 1 Octyl Palmitate Ceraphyl-368 Van Dyk & Company, Inc. 2-3 Isopropyl Palmitate Westwood Chemical 3 Myristyl Myristate (50% in Mineral Oil) Ceraphyl-424 Van Dyk & Company, Inc. 0-I Isopropyl Myristate (50% in Propylene Glycol) Wickenol IO1 Wickhen Products, Inc. 3-4 Glyceryl Stearate Tennessee Eastman Com- (50% in Mineral Oil) Myverol 18-05 pany 2 Kessler Division of Armour Isocetyl Stearate Chemical Corporation O-1 Propylene Glycol Isostearate Emerest-2389 Emery Industries, Inc. 3-4 Isopropyl Isostearate Emerest-2310 Emery Industries, Inc. 4 Isopropyl Linoleate Ceraphyl-lPL Van Dyk & Company, Inc. 4-5