448 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS mechanical response frequency, 335 swelling, 251 curling, 251 Equations antimicrobial activity, 313 binding energy of electrons skin, surface composition, 287 cystine interchange, 363 dye diffusion solution of, coefficient, effect on temperature, fractional dye uptake, partition coefficient, affinity of, 1 fluorescence Beer Lambert law, 125 Kubelka-Munk reflectance of dyed fiber, dye concentration, 31 moving boundary model dithiol reducing agents, 75 n-nitrosamines relative weight response, quantitative analysis, 213 occlusivity in emulsions, 255 percutaneous absorption rate of change of permeant using computer model, 237 rigidity hair fiber, torsion modulus, 87 skin topography peak factor criterion, 143 displacement, 335 solubility parameter cosmetic formulations, 319 stratum corneum shear waves, 169 sunscreen substantivity, 355 suspensions physical stability, 393 triboelectric charging electron transfer process, charge build-up, equilibrium charge density, keratin work function, charge decay, 189 Erucic acid solubility parameter, 319 Erythema guinea pigs in vitro assay, 425 irritancy assay topical vehicles, 303 response delayed contact hypersensitivity reaction 159 ESCA skin lipid removal, 287 Ester p-methoxy cinnamic acid, 125 sebum composition, 271 surfactant emulsions, 255 Ethanol absolute weathering effects on hair, 61 solubility parameter, 319 solvent extraction of structural lipid, 298 sunscreen substantivity, 355 Ethanolamine NDELA determination in cosmetics, 223 solubility parameter, 319 Ether anhydrous weathering effects on hair, 61 solvent extraction of structural lipid, 287 stratum corneum extraction, 349 surfactant emulsions, 255 Ethoxyethanol acetate solubility parameter, 319 Ethyl acetate solubility parameter, 319 Ethyl dihydroxypropyl sunscreen substantivity, 355 Ethylene glycol solubility parameter, 319 Ethylene/vinyl acetate copolymer solubility parameter, 319 Ethyl ether solubility parameter, 319 Ethyl lactate solubility parameter, 319 Extension hair, 39 Fatty acids sebum composition, 271 Filaments hair, ultrastructural, 87 Flocculation dispersion suspensions, 393 Fluorescence skin sunscreen evaluation, 125 Foam surfactant solubility parameter, 319 Force coil skin mechanical properties, 335 Formaldehyde imidazolidinyl urea titration, chemical analysis, 313 colorimetric assay, 413 Formalin resistance cosmetics, 413 Formic acid hair swelling, 39 effect on keratin fibers, 53 Fourier analysis skin spectral, 105 hair oxidation, transform infrared spectroscopy, 61 Fracture hair smooth, step, angle, fibrillated, split ends, 39 Fragrance in cream, 143 G2 stratum corneum treatments with, 349 Gaussian distribution polymer energy states, 189 Geraniol solubility parameter, 319 Glutamic acid keratin amino acid analysis, 17 Glycerin humectant sorption, 39 in cream, 143 rheology suspension, 393 solubility parameter, 319 Glycerine hair bleaching, 61 oxidation, 363 Glycerol skin mechanical properties, 335 Glyceryl laurate solubility parameter, 319 Glyceryl stearate solubility parameter, 319 Glycine keratin amino acid analysis, 17 Gly-tyr high keratin component, 17 Grisiofulvin salts flocculation, 393 Guinea pigs dermal delivery system delayed contact hypersensitivity, 159 in vitro assay phototoxicity, 425 Hair amino acid analysis human, TTD, x-linked, la meltar icthyosis, 17 bands oxidation, peptide, amide, 61 binding, 373 disulfide bond reduction, 75 dye diffusion, pH, temperature, concentration, solvent composition, 1

SUBJECT INDEX 449 uptake, 31 fracture behavior Negroid, Caucasian, 39 keratin hydrolysates disulfide exchange reaction, 363 mechanical behavior ellipticity, extension, stress, 39 oxidation degradation, 61 torsional behavior, 87 treatments cream relaxer, thioglycolic acid, humectants, 39 triboelectric charging surface modifications, 189 ultrastructural organization, keratin, non- keratin, 53 changes, weathering, shampooing, 53 Hammet correlations triboelectric charging, 189 HCL hair torsional behavior, 87 HC Red 3 dye diffusion, 1 Heat see temperature Helical coil configuration hair setting, waving, 87 Heliotropine in vitro assay phototoxicity, 425 Heptane solubility parameter, 319 Hexacyanoferrate oxidant dyes, 31 Hexadecyl surfactant, 189 Hexamethyldisiloxane solubility parameter, 319 Hexane solubility parameter, 319 solvent shampoo detergency, 271 Hexyl alcohol solubility parameter, 319 Hexylene glycol solubility parameter, 319 Hill top chamber dermal delivery patch testing, 159 H-iodoacetic acid hair SH groups, 39 H202 concentration dye uptake, 31 HPLC-TEA system quantitative analysis of NDELA, 213 cosmetics NDELA formation, 223 Humectants emulsions occlusivity, 255 hair treatment, monoethanolamine, thioglycolate fracture behavior, 39 propylene glycol hydration, 303 skin mechanical properties, 335 Hydrocarbon liquids suspension, 393 sebum composition, 271 Hydrochloric acid disulfide exchange reaction, 363 Hydrocortisone steroid chromatographic conditions, 303 Hydrocortisone 17-butyrate steroid chromatographic conditions, 303 Hydrogen bonds keratin, protein, 17 plasticization, 177 solubility parameter, 319 Hydrogen peroxide dye uptake, 31 hair oxidation, 6l, 363 Hydrogen sulfide oral malodor component, 297 Hydroxy acid stratum corneum rheological properties, 177 Hydroxybutyric acid plasticity, 177 2-hydroxycaprylic acid stratum corneum plasticity, 177 Hydroxyethyl cellulose sedimentation viscosity, 393 Hydroxypropionic acid plasticity, 177 Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose thickening agents cosmetics, 393 Hygroscopicity stratum comeurn theology, 177 Image analysis electron microscopy ultrastructural changes of hair, 53 Imidazolidinyl urea antimicrobial activity, 313 cosmetics resistance, 413 Indentometry dermis aging, 335 In vitro assay phototoxic potential, 425 measurement of anionic surfactants, 251 percutaneous absorption, 237 sunscreen substantivity, 355 In vivo agar patch method skin, 231 skin mechanical properties, 169 sunscreen substantivity, 355 tensile measurements, 335 vasoconstriction topical vehicles, 303 Irritancy steroids, 303 Isobutyl stearate solubility parameter, 319 Isocamphane theory of Arnoore shape, odor 381 Isocetyl alcohol solubility parameter, 319 Isopentane solubility parameter, 319 Isopropanol NDELA determination, 223 sunscreen substantivity, 355 Isopropyl cream, 143 solubility parameter alcohol, lactate, myristate, palmitate, 319 Isostearic acid solubility parameter, 319 Isostearyl alcohol solubility parameter, 319 Isotropic oily phase emulsions formation capacity, 255 Keratin components 53 amino acid analysis, 17 fiber surface modification, 189 hydrogen bonds plasticity, 177 oxidative dyeing, 31 structure crosslinks, swelling, 17 sunscreen substantivity, 355 KH2PO4 buffer solution aqueous dyeing, 1 Kinetics