450 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS hair disulfide bond reduction, 75 skin epidermal cells, 153 Lactic acid solubility parameter, 319 stratum corneum rheological properties, 177 Lanolin emulsions, 255 Lanthionine hair, 39 Lauric acid solubility parameter, 319 Lauryl alcohol solubility parameter, 319 Lead citrate hair preparation for scanning transmission, 53 Leucic acid stratum corneum hygroscopicity, 177 Levarometry dermis aging, 335 Linolenic acid solubility parameter, 319 Linseed oil solubility parameter, 319 Lipids skin surface, 153 intercellular membranes, 53 ESCA, 287 Lipoic acid hair bond reduction, 75 Lipophile phase emulsions, 255 London dispersion forces solubility non-polar attractions, 319 Lotion rheology suspensions, 393 Low torque torsional method stratum corneum mechanical properties, 335 Lubricants solubility parameter cosmetic formulation, 319 Lyral in vitro assay phototoxicity, 425 Lysinoalanine hair, 39 Magnesium aluminum silicate suspensions dispersion, 393 Magnesium carbonate suspensions flocculation, 53 Magnesium stearate surface tension values, 393 Mandelic acid hair ultrastructural, 87 stratum corneum hygroscopicity, 177 Mannitol salt agar soap antibacterial activity 231 Matrix cosmetic ingredients, 223 intramacrofibrillar keratin components, 53 keratin swelling, 17 Measurements emulsions occlusivity, formation capacity, viscosity, conductivity, 255 ESCA: lipid removal, 287 fluorescence intensity, 125 hair dye uptake, 31 ultrastructural changes, 53 oxidative hair damage, 61 torsional behavior, 87 triboelectric charging, 189 penetration aspirin, 393 skin roughness, anisotropy, skewness, curtosis, 105 surface roughness, 153 propagation velocity, attenuation of shear waves, 169 displacement, 335 stratum corneum mechanical properties, cyclic stress response, sorption isotherm, hygroscopicity, 177 MEK solubility parameter, 319 Melissyl alcohol solubility parameter, 319 Membrane keratin amino acid analysis, 17 Metal work function electron movement, 189 Methane solubility parameter, 319 Methanol/methylene chloride solvent polarity NDELA determination, 223 Methodology absorption-extraction rate of dyeing, 1 agar patch antibacterial activity, 231 buehler sensitivity of HTC versus webril patch, 159 desorption rate of dyeing, 1 tape stripping antiperspirant activity, 435 colormetric method of sulfhydryl analysis oral malodor, 297 digital signal processing reconstruction of skin, 105 dye extraction diffusion, 1 electron microscopy hair structure, composition, 53 fluorometers spectrodensitometer, luminescence spectrometer, 125 fourier transform infrared spectroscopy oxidative hair damage, 61 gas bearing electrodynamometer mechanical properties, 335 heat trypsinization stratum corneum, 177 high pressure liquid chromatography NDELA, 213,223 solubility parameter, 319 low torque torsional mechanical properties, 335 microspectrophotometric rate of dyeing, 1 reflectance dye uptake, 31 regression amino acid analysis, 17 shadow making isocamphane, 381 shampoo detergency finger, sponge, bulk process, 271 single fiber tensile kinetics reduction, 75 skin profilometry topography, 143 spectrometer sunscreen evaluation, 125 spectrophotometric assay imidazolidinyl urea, 413 spectrum analyzer phase difference, relative amplitude, 169 starch iodine antiperspirant activity, 435 torsion-pendulum hair, 87 ultraviolet emission in vitro assay, 425 Methoxy ethanol solubility parameter, 319 Methoxypropanol solubility parameter, 319 Methoxypropanol acetate solubility parameter, 319 8-methoxy psoralen in vitro assay phototoxicity, 425

SUBJECT INDEX 451 Methyl alcohol solubility parameter, 319 Methylcellulose thickening agent cosmetics, 393 Methylene chloride solubility parameter, 319 solvent polarity NDELA, 223 Methyl isobutyl ketone solubility parameter, 319 Methyl lactate solubility parameter, 319 Methylmercaptan oral malodor, 297 Methyl oleate solubility parameter, 319 Methyl paraben cosmetics resistance, 413 in cream, 143 solubility parameter, 319 Methyl salicylate solubility parameter, 319 Microfibrils keratin swelling, 17 Microrelief skin geometric characteristics, 143 Microscopy hair, 75 Moisturizers stratum corneum• 177 Mono-dinitrophenyl-cystine hair cystinc interchange, 363 Monoethanolamine matrix NDELA determination, 223 Monoethanolamine thioglycolate humectant hair treatment, 39 Monothiol acid disulfide bond reduction, 75 Morpholine matrices NDELA determination, 223 Mouse in vitro assay phototoxicity, 425 Muscone solubility parameter, 319 Myristic acid solubility parameter, 319 Myristyl alcohol solubility parameter NaCI oxidative dyeing keratin, 31 Na2HPO4 buffer solution aqueous dyeing, 1 Nail amino acid analysis, 17 Naphthalenesulfonic acid hair torsional behavior, 87 1-naphthol dye uptake, 31 N-ButyI-N'Nitrosoguanidine chromatographic characteristics HPLC-TEA analysis, 213 NDELA quantitative analysis, 213 cosmetic ingredients, 223 Neomycin sulfate allergen delayed contact hypersensitivity testing, 159 Negroid hair fracture behavior, 39 Neopentane solubility parameter, 319 N-ethyl-n'nitro-n-nitrosoguanidine chromatographic characteristics HPLC-TEA analysis, 213 N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro.p-phenyl- enediamine HC Red 3 dye diffusion, 1 Nitrocellulose solubility parameter, 319 Nitrogen assay imidazolidinyl urea, 313 skin lipid removal, surface composition, 287 N-methyl-n-nitrosourea chemical characteristics HPLC-TEA analysis, 213 N'N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylene- diamine dye uptake, 31 N-nitrosamines, 213, 223 N-nitrosodibutylaminc chromatographic characteristics HPLC-TEA analysis, 213 N-nitrosodiethanolamine, see NDELA N-nitrosodiisopropanolamine chromatographic characteristics HPLC-TEA analysis, 213 N-nitrosodiisopropylamine chromatographic characteristics HPLC-TEA analysis, 213 N-nitroso-3-hydroxypiperidine chromatographic characteristics HPLC-TEA analysis, 213 N-nitrosoproline chromatographic characteristics HPLC-TEA analysis, 213 N-nitrosopyrrolidine chromatographic characteristics HPLC-TEA analysis, 213 N-nitrosopyrrolidone chromatographic characteristics HPLC-TEA analysis, 213 Nonoxynol dye deposition, 31 solubility parameter, 319 Nonylphenol solubility parameter, 319 Nutrient agar skin antibacterial activity, 231 Occlusivity emulsions, 255 Octadecanol triboelectric charging, 189 Octadecyl sulfonates surfactant, 189 Octadecyl trimethyl ammonium surfactant, 189 Octane solubility parameter, 319 Octyl dimethyl sunscreen substantivity, 355 Octyl dimethyl PABA: solubility parameter, 319 Octyl dodecanol solubility parameter, 319 Octyl palmitate solubility parameter, 319 Odor isocamphane, 381 Oil emulsions occlusivity, 255 in cream olive, 143 in vitro assay phototoxicity, 425 seburn composition olive, coconut, 271 skin fluorescence intensity, 125 Oleic acid shampoo detergency, 271 solubility parameter, 319 Oleth solubility parameter, 319 Oleyl alcohol solubility parameter, 319 Olive oil solubility parameter, 319 Osmium tetroxide hair kinetic reduction, 75 OSO4 hair preparation for scanning transmission, 53 Oxidation dyeing keratin fibers, 31 hair damage, 61 polyethylene solubility parameter, 319 ring structure dithiane, diothiolane, 75