SURFACTANT-SKIN INTERACTIONS 85 (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25) (26) (27) (28) (29) G. Imokawa, S. Akasaki, P. Kuno, M. Zama, M. Kawai, Y. Minematsu, M. Hattori, N. Yoshizuka, A. Kawamata, S. Yano, and N. Takaishi, Functions oflipids on human skin,J. Disp. Sci. & Technol., 10 (4-5), 6174541 (1989). M.D. Womack, D. A. Kendall, and R. C. MacDonald, Detergent effects on enzyme activity and solubilization of lipid bilayer membranes, Acta Blochem. et Biophys. Acad. Sci., 15, 205 (1980). E. Ralston, L. M. Hjelmeland, R. D. Klausner, J. N. Weinstein, and R. Blumenthal, Carboxyflu- orescein as a probe for liposome-cell interactions: Effect of impurities and purification of the dye, Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 649, 133-137 (1981). L. D. Leserman and J. Barbet (Eds.), "Purification de la Carboxyfluoresceine," in Liposome Methodology in Pharmacology and Cell Biology, INSERM Symposia Series, Vol. 107, 1982, pp. 135-136. H. Schieren, S. Rudolph, M. Finkelstein, P. Coleman, and G. Weissmann, Comparison of large unilamellar vesicles prepared by a petroleum ether vaporization method with multilamellar vesicles, Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 542, 137-153 (1978). S.C. Kinsky,"Preparation of Liposomes and a Spectrophotometric Assay for Release of Trapped Glucose Marker," in Methods in Enzymology, XXXII, Biomembranes, Part B, 1974, pp. 501-513. D. Deamer and A.D. Bangham, Large volume liposomes by an ether vaporization method, Blochim. Biophys. Acta, 443, 629-634 (1976). J. C. M. Stewart, Colorimetric determination of phospholipids with ammonium ferrothiocyanate, Anal. Blochem., 104, 10-14 (1980). H. V. Ammon and U. K. Charaf, Effects of bile acids and fatty acids on unilamellar liposomes (in preparation). R. L. Rietschel, R. M. Adams, H. I. Maibach, F. J. Storrs, and L. E. Rosenthal, The case for patch test readings beyond day 2,J. Am. Acad. Dermatol., 18, 42-45 (1988). H. O. Kim, R. C. Wester, J. A. McMaster, D. A. W. Bucks, and H. I. Maibach, Skin absorption from patch test systems, Contact Dermatitis, 17, 178-180 (1987). K. A. Walters, The effects of nonionic surfactants on skin permeability, XIVth I.F.S.C.C. Congress, Barcelona, Vol. II, 1986. M. Szogyi, F. Tolgyesi, and T. Cserhati, Correlation between ion permeability and structure of model membranes modified by tensides, Studies in Physical and Theoretical Chemistry, 24, 29-35 (1983). J. Leighton, R. Tchao, J. Verdone, and J. Nassauer, In Vitro Toxicology, a progress report from the Johns Hopkins Center for Alternatives to Animal Testing, Vol. 3. A.M. Goldberg, Ed. (Mary Ann Libert, Inc., 1985). G. Levy, K. E. Miller, and R. H. Reuning, Effect of complex formation on drug absorption, J. Pharm. Sci., 55, 394 (1966). M. S. Wortzman, R. A. Scott, and P.S. Wong, Soap and detergent bar rinsability, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 37, 89-97 (1986). C. Prottey, D. Oliver, and A. C. Coxon, Prediction of measurement ofsurfactant action upon human skin under realistic conditions, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 6, 263-273 (1984). B. Rondot and R. M. Handjhani-Vila, A new in vitro method for the assessment of ocular irritancy caused by surfactants. XIVth I.F.S.½.½. Congress, Barcelona, Vol. 1, 1986, pp. 113-119. W. Kastner and P. J. Frosch, Skin Irritation of Various Anionic Surfactants in the Duhring-Chamber Test on Volunteers in Comparison With In-Vitro and Animal Test Methods, Lecture at "Fettwissenschaft," Vienna, 26 September 1979.
J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 42, 87-96 (March/April 1991) Colloid titration' A method to quantify the adsorption of cationic polymer by bleached hair JACQUELINE M. HUTTER, MARY T. CLARKE, ERNST K. JUST, J. L. LICHTIN, and ADEL SAKR, Aqualon Company, Wilmington, DE 19850 (.J.M.H., M.T.C., E.K.J.), and University of Cincinnati College of Pharmacy, Cincinnati, OH 45267 (J.M.H., J.L.L., A.S. ) Received September 12, 1990. Synopsis Colloid titration was validated and used to measure the adsorption of cationic polymer by hair. Cationic polymer uptake by bleached hair was measured indirectly by determining concentration differences in treatment solutions following immersion of hair tresses. Uptake of Polyquaternium-10 cationic hydroxyethylcellulose determined by colloid titration correlated with previously published results for a Polyquaternium-10 measured by radiotracing. Adsorption of cationic hydroxyethylcellulose depended on the degree of damage caused by bleaching hair bleached under harsh conditions showed higher levels of cationic polymer adsorption. Sorption of Polyquaternium-10 increased directly with polymer treatment time and cationic solution concentrations. INTRODUCTION Cationic polymers are widely used in hair product formulations for their ability to modify the condition of hair. Positively charged groups on the polymer are attracted to the negatively charged hair surface and adsorption occurs. An adsorbed polymeric film on the hair surface can lead to improved body and combability. These modifications serve to improve the apparent condition of hair (1). The efficacy of a cationic polymer conditioning treatment is directly related to the amount of polymer deposited on the hair surface from treatment solutions. Most methods for detecting the presence of cationic polymer on hair involve analysis of the hair surface for adsorbed agent (1) and include measurements such as wettability (2), electrophoresis (3), streaming potential (5), and a dye test (6). These tests yield only relative information about the surface conditions of hair quantitative assessment of adsorbed species is not possible. Jacqueline M. Hutter's current address is Helene Curtis Industries, 4401 West North Avenue, Building 3E, Chicago, IL 60639. 87
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