344 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS Emo!!ients 13 Enamel Nail, 331 Epidermis 215 Evaporimetry 179 Expert grader, 101 Extraction solid-phase, 207 Flow-through diffusion cell systems, 251 Fluid receptor, 251 Flux at saturation, 251 steady-state, 251 Fo!!icular biopsy 101 Formaldehyde 331 free nail enamel, 331 Formulation cosmetic, 69 factors, 93 TSFR resin, 331 Fragrance compounds, 49 Frantz diffusion cell, 93 Friction instrument, 13 Skin, 13 FT-IR Microspectroscopy 285 Gas chromatography 49, 207 analyses, 49 flame ionization detection, 49 mass spectrometry, 49 Gel cleansing 21 Glycerol 161 Grader expert, 101 Gum Xanthan, 1 Hair 169, 179, 195 bleached, 229 conditioners, 179 275 conditioning agents, 275 damage, 251 growth, 195 human hair cycle, 285 moisture, 179 normal cyclic loss, 195 spray polymers, 169 spray resin, 169 surface, 275 Hairspray 169 Junctions, 169 High-performance liquid chromatography 69 Hexadienol 85 HPLC High-performance liquid chromatography, 69 Human 131 model, 101 skin, 215 Hydrocarbon 251 Hydrocortisone 85 Hydroxyethylcellulose hydrophobically-modified, 229 Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose 229 Hygrometry 179 Ibuprofen 85 Image analysis, 101 Individual differences, 131 Instrument Friction, 13 meter, 13 Instrumental data, 13 Interaction vehicle-skin, 251 Interleukin-1 alpha 307 Iron 215 Irritation subjective, 131 Isopropanol 251 In vitro 93,251,307 diffusion, 93 Knot adhesion test, 169 Lameliar liquid crystal, 21 Lanolin 219 Linalool 49 Linalyl acetate 49 Light polarized, 101 Lipids 13, 149,219, 237 compositions used to prepare liposomes, 149 intercellular, 219 synthetic, 149 Liposomes 93, 101, 149 multilayer, 93 preparation of, 149, 237 Liquid Crystal, 21 Liquid crystal lameliar, 21 Make-up remover, 21 Lotions 161 Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, 1 Make-up liquid crystal remover, 21 remover, 21 Markers radiolabelled, 93 Massage oil, 49 Mass spectrometry 207 Membranes artificial 237 development, 237 Menthol 131 Methyl salicylate 131 Microscope 101 Mildness 187 Mineral oil light, 251 Model human, 101 skin, 37, 307 Moisturizers 13 Moisturizing action, 219 Monitoring selected-ion, 207 Mouse hairless, 93,251 skin, 85,251 Nail enamels, 331 formaldehyde free enamels, 331 hardeners, 331 quick drying enamels, 331 self-adhesive enamels, 331 strengtheners, 331 toluene free enamels, 331 water based enamels, 331

SUBJECT INDEX 345 Naproxen 85 NEPLAST 331 Nitrocellulose 331 Noncomedogenetic 101 n-Propanol 251 Oil 13 encapsulation, 113 lavender, 49 light, mineral, 251 massage, 49 relaxing effects, 49 sedative effects, 49 Oils 13 Oxygen radicals, 85 215 Penetration 219 Perception tactile 13 Percutaneous absorption, 37 Permeability caffeine coefficient, 251 Permeation caffeine, 251 studies of skin, 37 skin, 251 Pharmacokinetics 49 Phase anagen an FT-IR microspectroscopy study of hair matrix and shaft, 285 catagen an FT---IR microspectroscopy study of hair matrix and shaft, 285 diagram, 21 telogen an FT-IR study of hair microspectoscopy of hair matrix and shaft, 285 transition, 21 Phospholipids 93 Photodamage 85 215 Photoprotection 85 Physical property, 275 Pig skin 93 Plasma concentration, 49 Piasticizers 331 Polarized light 101 Proteins quaternized, 259 Potentiometric titration 259 Polyhydric alcohol, 21 Polymer Acrylic, 169 cationic adsorption, 229 Polyquaternium-10 229 Product performance, 13 Propylene glycol 161,251 Psychophysics 131 Quality control, 69 sensation, 131 Quantification of volatiles in human blood samples, 49 Quaternary ammonium compounds 259 Quaternized proteins 259 Radiation, ultraviolet, 85 215 Radiolabelled Markers 93 Receptor fluid, 251 Rehydration vesicles, 93 Saturation flux, 251 Self-emulsification 21 Sensation 13 quality, 131 Sensory analysis of skin, 13 assessment of skin, 13 ServoMed Evaporator, 161 Shampoo 275 dimethicane, 195 efficacy test, 179 non-dimethicane, 195 Silicones 275 deposition onto hair, 275 Simulation computer, 37 Skin aging, 85 215 barrier function, 161 binding, 37 dry, 297 friction, 13 hairless mouse, 251 human, 215 model, 37, 307 mouse, 85 251 permeation, 251 pig, 93 sagging, 85 simultaneous studies, 37 strata, 93 surface biopsy, 297 texture, 21 wrinkling, 85 Solubility caffeine, 251 Solvents 161 Spectrometry mass, 207 Spectroscopy derivative UV, 69 SPF sun protection factor, 307 Stratum Corneum 93 219, 297 Steady-state flux 251 Stripping tape, 219 Substantiation claim, 13 Substantivity 259 Sun sun protection factor (SPF), 307 Sunlight 85,215 Surfactant branched silkl, 21 electrode, 259 nonionic, 21 Tactile perception, 13 Tape stripping, 219 Telogen phase, A FT-IR microspectroscopy study of hair matrix and shaft, 285 Test armwash, 187 Consumer,, 13 flex wash, 187 home use, 187 Knot adhesion, 169 Shampoo efficacy, 179