236 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS unteers from the New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania area. This population had variable exposure to cigarette smoke. Active smokers were selected on the basis of self-reported histories of heavy smoking (at least one pack a day for over five years). There were forty-five panelists in this sample. Passive smokers were defined as those individu- als who worked or lived with heavy smokers for twenty years, but never smoked themselves. There were thirty panelists in this group. Non-smokers were defined as those who had never smoked and were not exposed to tobacco smoke other than casually such as in a public place. Twenty-five non-smokers were evaluated. All subjects were in normal health, with no evidence of acute or chronic disease includ- ing dermatologic or ophthalmological problems. Subjects exhibiting current sunburn or uneven skin were excluded from the study. The measurement sites were carefully se- lected to be devoid of warts, nevi, moles, sunburn, suntan, scars, and other abnormalities. The volunteers were provided with a mild soap to be used a week prior to the test. They were instructed not to use any skin-care products or moisturizers. The panelists answered a questionnaire to provide a history of sun and cigarette smoke exposure. For sun exposure the panelists graded themselves as having "mild," "moderate," or "severe" sun exposure over past years. Fitzpatrick skin types (10) were determined on the basis of evaluation by a clinical technician. In Part I of the study, the following measurements were obtained: EPIDERMAL BARRIER CONDITION Measurement of epidermal barrier condition in terms of TEWL was made on the cheek area of the face. Measurements were obtained with an evaporimeter (Servomed, Sweden), which allows for determination of water flux just above the surface of the skin (11,12). Prior to water loss measurements, the volunteers remained in the test area at 70øF and a relative humidity of 40% or less, with no air drafts, for 30 minutes to allow for skin equilibration. The panelists were asked to refrain from drinking caffeine-containing beverages prior to coming to the test facility. All measurements were obtained in triplicate from three adjacent sites. SKIN DRYNESS Degree of skin dryness was determined by analyzing the amounts of corneocytes removed on a sticky tape (D-Squame, Cuderm Inc., Dallas, TX) This methodology has been described previously (13). For each subject, measurements were made in quadruplicate. The sticky tapes were analyzed for skin dryness using a digitized image analysis system (I.B.A.S., Zeiss). The D-Squame was placed on a Chroma Pro 45 light box, and its image was obtained via a CCD Panasonic camera. The image was digitized as a 256 gray level image with a resolution of 512 x 512 pixels. The gray value information was extracted from the processed image. The field parameters measured were median and mean stan- dard gray values and its standard deviation. Field area and mean gray values estimate the total number of corneocytes present and the area they occupy. From this information, integrated optical density (IOD) was computed. IOD is indicative of the amount of stratum corneum removed on one sticky tape, an indication of skin surface dryness.

EFFECT OF CIGARETTE SMOKE ON SKIN 237 SKIN WRINKLING: IMAGE ANALYSIS OF SILICONE REPLICAS Two sets of silicone replicas were obtained around the eye area on each side of the face. The replicas were analyzed by placing each replica at the same point beneath a Sony M3A color camera and illuminating with a Nikon fiber optic light source at a fixed angle of 35 o. The camera was interfaced to the image analysis system, and the blue image of each replica was analyzed. Skin wrinkles were measured from the total area of the shadow produced from the ridges. In Part II of the study, other variables such as chronological aging and sun exposure were compared with the effect of cigarette smoke to further investigate the effects of cigarette smoke on skin. RESULTS PART I One hundred panelists were evaluated, and results were averaged from each group for each of the measurement parameters. Epidermal barrier condition. Non-smokers demonstrated a significantly lower degree of TEWL when compared with both active and passive smokers (p 0.001). No significant difference was observed between the degree of TEWL in active and passive smokers (Figure 1). Skin dryness. The amount of stratum corneum removed from the skin surface as deter- mined by image analysis of the sticky tapes was significantly different between both active and passive smokers when compared to non-smokers (p 0.05). The difference between active and passive smokers was not significant (Figure 2). Wrinkling. Significant differences in the amount of skin wrinkling were observed when comparing active and passive smokers and non-smokers (Figure 3). Active smokers appeared to exhibit twice as much wrinkling as non-smokers (p .001). 17 16 •.15 -r- 14 0 12 '•11 • •o uJ 9 i- 8 7 Effect of Cigarette Smoke on Skin Barrier Functions I Active Smokers Passive Smokers Non Smokers Figure 1. Skin barrier functions measured via transepidermal water loss.