274 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS (36) (37) (38) (39) (40) (41) (42) (43) (44) (45) j.G. Dominiquez, J. L. Parra, M. R. Infante, C.M. Palejero, F. Balaguer, and T. Sautre, A new approach to the theory of absorption and permeability of surfactants and keratinic proteins: The specific behavior of certain hydrophobic chains, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 28, 165-182 (1977). A. Dillarstone and M. Paye, Antagonism in concentrated surfactant systems, Contact Dermatitis, 28, 198 (1993). U. Zeidler, Influence of surfactants on the swelling of epidermis, Proceedings of 15th IFSCC Congress, 393-397 (1988). G. Sauerman, A. Doerschner, M. Hoppe, and P. Witterm, Comparative study of skin care efficacy and in use properties of soap and surfactant bars,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 37, 309-327 (1986). R. I. Murahata, R. T. Quinn, and M. B. Finkey, Effect of pH on the production of irritation in a chamber irritation test, J. Am. Acad. Derre., 18, 62-66 (1988). J. H. Hassing, J.P. Nater, and E. Baleumink, Irritancy of low concentration of soap and synthetic detergents as measured by skin water loss, Dermatologica, 164, 314-321 (1982). L. Antoine, J. L. Contreras, and D.J. Van Neste, pH influence of surfactant-induced skin irritation, Dermatosen, 37, 96-100 (1989). W. Abraham, "Surfactant Effects on Skin Barrier," in Surfactants in Cosmetics, 2nd ed., Surfactant Science Series, M. Rieger and L. Rhein, Eds. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1997), Vol. 68, p. 480. G.V. Scott, C. R. Robbins, and J. D. Barnhurst, Sorption of quaternary ammonum surfactants by human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 20, 135-152 (1969). R. A. Cutler and H. P. Drobeck, "Toxicology of surfactants," in Cationic Surfactants, E. Jungerman, Ed. (Marcel Dekker, New York, 1970), pp 527-614.

j. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 48, 275 (September/October 1997) Book Review COSMETIC MICROBIOLOGY, A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK, edited by Daniel K. Brannan. CRC Press, Boca Ra- ton, FL. 323 pages, hardbound. In 1990 Parsons wrote an interesting paper: A microbiology primer for the non- microbiology manager. • Now Dan Brannan has expanded some of these ideals into a book that really meets the title, a practical handbook for anyone interested in cos- metic microbiology. It is geared for the formulator or anyone who produces cos- metics and needs an understanding of mi- crobiology, plant sanitization, and preser- vation. A microbiology education is not needed to understand this book. The topics include a history of cosmetic microbiology the biology of microbes the microbial environment of the manufactur- ing plant preservative efficacy, microbial content, and disinfectant testing valida- tion of methods preservative develop- ment mechanisms of action of cosmetic preservatives consumer safety consider- ations associated with the microbial pres- ervation of cosmetics and laws and en- forcement. The longest chapter is written by Dan Cosmetics & Toiletries, 105(3), 73, 1990. himself, on the biology of microbes. Here is a really good introduction to bacteria, yeast, and molds, how they grow, and a complete description of each of the types that we frequently encounter in cosmetics. The chapters on methodology review and compare many frequently used meth- ods, including the USP, CTFA and ASTM methods. Especially useful is a good dis- cussion on preservative neutralizers. The different types of challenge test methods are reported in easy-to-understand text. The guidelines for manufacturing plant equipment for sanitization, cleaning, and training the workers is worth the price of this book alone. This is the first publication that indi- cates the proposed mechanism of action of the major preservatives. Many times this information can explain why preservatives work in some systems while failing in oth- ers. The chapter on regulations covers only the US. It would be helpful to include the EU regulations, which include a "positive" listing of preservatives. This book is a welcome addition for any formulator, cosmetic manufacturer, or chemist. When added to other recent books on preservatives for cosmetics, it re- veals that cosmetic microbiology is no longer "black magic," but rather a clear, although not always predictable, sci- ence.--DAVID C. STEINBERG. 275