HAIR DAMAGE WITH S100A3 ELUTION 23 Intact cuticle (I) Grooming Perming Actual cuticle (•) I UV-exposure . S100A3 -'• ........... ' ' - Daily Damaged (lifted) cuticle washing Denatured cuticle (•v) (•) e Cross-I inked S100A3 e Denatured S100A3 Figure 5. A model of hair damage emphasizing the loss of S100A3 from cuticle. Smooth-edged scales are present in the hair shaft emerging from the scalp (I), but cuticle can be chipped away at the edges of the scales through normal grooming (II). Environmental stresses, namely UV radiation, affect the disulfide bonds or conformation of the S100A3 molecule located in the bottom part of the endocuticle (III). S100A3 is gradually eluted in daily washings of hair, which leads to the delamination of cuticle (IV). Treatment with permanent waving lotion alone can lead to the elution of S100A3 without environmental stresses. of normal grooming, cuticle fragments can be chipped away (26). The S100A3-rich layer becomes the outermost layer of hair readily exposed to hair treatments. STAGE III Environmental factors, including UV-radiation, can affect the disulfide bonds or con- formation of the S100A3 molecule. At this stage, the cross-links of cysteine residues of S100A3 are cleaved, and S100A3 becomes a soluble protein that differs from other insoluble hair constituents. Therefore, this chemical process would cause latent but considerable damage to the S100A3-rich layer. STAGE IV During daily washing, S100A3 would be gradually released from the hair that had been exposed to environmental stresses. Application of permanent waving lotions can elute S100A3 from the natural hair of stage II without undergoing stage III transformation, because the disulfide bridges are not resistant to the reductant and oxidant. Loss of S100A3 from endocuticle could result in scale lifting.

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