HAIR DAMAGE WITH S 100A3 ELUTION 25 Zn2+-binding protein S100A3: Spectroscopic investigations of its transition metal ion complexes, and three-dimensional structural model, Blochim. Biophys. Acta, 1448, 264-276 (1998). (19) R. Wickerr, Disulfide bond reduction in permanent waving, Cosmet. Toiletr., 106, 37-47 (1991). (20) E. Tolgyesi, Weathering of hair, Cosmet. Toiletr., 98, 29-32 (1983). (21) I.J. Kaplin, A. Schwan, and H. Zahn, Effects of cosmetic treatments on the ultrastructure of hair, Cosmet. Toiletr., 97, 22-26 (1982). (22) C. Dubief, Experiments with hair photodegradation, Cosmet. Toiletr., 107, 95-102 (1992). (23) S.S. Sandhu and C. R. Robbins, A simple and sensitive technique, based on protein loss measurements, to assess surface damage to human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44, 163-175 (1993). (24) M. Oku, H. Nishimura, and H. Kanehisa, Dissolution of proteins from hair. I: The analysis of dissolved proteins from bleached hair, J. Soc. Cos. Chem. Jpn., 21, 198-203 (1987). (25) S. B. Ruetsch and H.-D. Weigmann, Mechanism of tensile stress release in the keratin fiber cuticle: I,J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 47, 13-26 (1996). (26) J. A. Swift, Fine details on the surface of human hair, Int. J. Costnet. Sci., 13, 143-159 (1991).
j. Cosmet. Sci., 51, 27-36 (January/February 2000) Antiwrinkle and skin-moisturizing effects of a mineral-algal-botanical complex Z. MA'OR, G. MESHULAM-SIMON, S. YEHUDA, and J.A. GAVRIELI, Dead Sea Laboratories Ltd., Dead Sea 86983 (Z.M., S.Y.), and IMI (Tami), Institute for R&D Ltd., Haifa 26111 (G. M. -S., J.A.G.), Israel. Accepted j3r publication December 15, 1999. Synopsis Tests were carried out to compare the skin-smoothing and moisturizing effects of two cosmetic preparations, following two applications a day over a period of four weeks. The skin roughness parameter, Rz, was determined at the beginning and end of the study. The skin hydration was evaluated eight and twelve hours after cream application. At the end of four weeks, the cream enriched with 5% of Triple D Complex TM, composed of Dead Sea Mineral Skin Osmoter TM, Dunaliella salina algae extract and desert plants, had caused an average reduction of the skin roughness parameter by 43%. This effect was almost twice the improvement that was observed when a control cream was tested. From skin hydration results it can be concluded that the Triple D Complex TM may also be considered as an active moisturizing agent. The role of Dunaliella salina biomass enriched with Dead Sea minerals, as an active component of the complex, was examined separately. Several parameters that may affect the mineral biosorption and desorption were evaluated. The relatively low biosorption of calcium and magnesium into the algal biomass and the minimal tendency to release minerals from the biomass at the pH of skin leads to the conclusion that the role of these algae as a vehicle for the tested elements is limited. Similar results in skin smoothing, obtained in two distinct studies, using Dead Sea Mineral Skin Osmoter TM and Triple D Complex TM, suggest that Dead Sea minerals play a major role in the proven antiwrinkle effect. INTRODUCTION Chemists all over the world are eagerly searching for new active agents to benefit the skin health and beauty industries. The global trend toward using natural ingredients is focused on components that are extracted from the botanical world, and from marine algae, commonly known as seaweeds, which have been widely used over the centuries for their nutritional and therapeutic properties. Seaweed is one of the richest natural sources of vitamins and minerals, possessing sea mineral salts in high concentrations and also trace elements. It has been demonstrated that similar minerals from the Dead Sea can act as agents in the reduction of skin roughness, and have a beneficial effect on the natural moisturizing factor, NMF (1-3). It has been shown in several publications that skin may alter its metabolism and its inner enzymatic activities when exposed to a graded concentration of minerals, especially 27
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