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j. Cosmet. sci., 51,263-265 (July/August 2000) Abstracts Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists Japan (as published in Vol. 33, No. 2, 1999)* Development of a New Cationic Polymer for Hair Styling Products and Its Application • Tomoyuki Kawasoe*, Tomoko Watanabe*, Tetsuya Kanbe '3, Tomiyuki Namba '4, Masaaki Uemura '3, Uhei Tamura '3, Kenji Torii '5, Yoshihiro Okuda '6, Junichi Matsumoto '6, Yujiro Uchiyama '6, Depart- ment of Customer Satisfaction Research '2, Product Development Center '3, Basic Research Center '4, Kuki Factory '5, Shiseido Co., Ltd., Osaka Organic Chemical Ind., Ltd. '6 A typical synthetic resin thickener is comprised of a crosslinked polyacrylic acid. It is generally prepared by crosslinking polyacrylic acid with allyl saccha- rose. This carboxyvinyl polymer is one of the most popular thickeners for cosmetics. It shows high abil- ity of gelation, good transparency and pleasant odor. Since this carboxyvinylpolymer structure is anionic, it can be blended with nonionic and anionic poly- mers. However it is incompatible with cationic and amphoteric polymers. This is a disadvantage since cationic and amphoteric polymers yield good textile setting and water repulsion properties of hair respec- tively. Therefore, we carried research towards devel- opment of a new thickener compatible with both cationic and amphoteric polymers. As a result, we developed a new cationic polymer which is compat- ible with cationic and amphoteric polymers. Fur- thermore, it exhibits good thickening properties and high salt tolerance. This new cationic polymer is not only a good thickener but also yields excellent adhesive and setting properties of hair. Styling gel formulation with this new cationic polymer yielded a stable product without stickiness, flaking and with excellent transparancy on hair. Key words: new cationic polymer, non flaking, new- type hair styling gel, non stickiness, gel agent, high These abstracts have been edited only minimally by the Journal of Cosmetic Science. They appear here ba- sically as they appeared in the Journal of the Sodety of Cosmetic Chemists Japan. viscosity, salt tolerance, moisture resistance, cosmet- ics, transparancy. Spectral Assessment of Colored Hair by Means of Photoacoustic Spectroscopy Akiko Ogata**, Natsumi Komure**, Yoshio Tsu- jino**, Teruo Hinoue*** Research & Laboratories, Yamahatsu Sangyo Kaisha, Ltd. ** Department of Chemistry, Graduate School of Science, Osaka Uni- versity*** Reproducible measurements have been desired in the spectral assessment of colored hair, because a rough surface and a heterogeneous internal structure of the colored hair causes the light scattering, which leads to deterioration of reflectance spectra of the colored hair. Since the photoacoustic effect indi- rectly detects optical absorption with an acoustic instrument such as a microphone, it is expected that photoacoustic spectroscopy (PAS) is little affected by the light scattering and thus provides the repro- ducible absorption spectra even for the colored hair. In this work, we measured PA spectra of the colored hair and compared them with the corresponding reflectance spectra. As a result, it was shown, as expected, that the PA spectra were obtained with good reproducibility and were little affected by the light scattering in comparison with the reflectance spectra. PAS is therefore applicable to the spectral assessment of the colored hair. On the other hand, the depth-profiling was attempted on cellophane samples with a laminar structure, and the colored hair by measuring the PA signal intensity at a con- stant wavelength as a function of the chopping fre- quency. The depth-profiling was successfully per- formed for the cellophane sample but not for the colored hair because of its circular cross sectional shape. Further improvement is necessary for the depth-profiling of the colored hair. Key words: spectral assessment, colored hair, pho- toacoustic spectroscopy (PAS), microphone, chop- ping frequency, light scattering, PA spectra, reflec- 263