264 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE tance spectra, optical absorption, reproducibility, depth-profiling, cellophane Properties of the Partially Hydrophilic Silicone Gelling Agent Toshio Nomura**, Kiyomi Yokoohji**, Koji Sakuta*** Fundamental Research Laboratory, KOSE Corporation **, Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. *** A partially hydrophilic crosslinked silicone was syn- thesized by the addition polymerization of a meth- ylhydrogenpolysiloxane and a polyoxyethylene dial- lylether. The crosslinked silicone obtained can swell in dimethylpolysiloxane (silicone oil) forming a gel, and a large amount of water can also be successfully taken into the gel to form a stable W/O type emul- sion. The W/O emulsion prepared using the syn- thesized crosslinked silicone was confirmed to have larger water droplets, and to contain a larger amount of water when compared with the emulsion prepared by the conventional silicone type W/O emulsifier (polyoxyethylene methylpolysiloxane copolymer). The larger water droplets of the emulsion is well understood by the fact that the synthesized crosslinked silicone consists of dispersed particles with practically no soluble components, and there- fore has a lower ability of decreasing the interfacial tension between water and dimethylpolysiloxane (silicone oil). The stability of the emulsion in spite of its large water droplets is supposed by the fol- lowing facts: 1) The interfacial film can be effec- tively formed by the dispersed crosslinking silicone which orientares between water and dimethylpoly- siloxane (silicone oil), because of its hydrophilic and hydrophobic moiety. 2) The crosslinked silicone en- tangles its polysiloxane chains in dimethylpolysilox- ane-the outer phase of the emulsion, forming the network. Therefore the dimethylpolysiloxane (sili- cone oil) existing around the water loses its fluidity and stays in a gelling state. And the viscosity of the gel shows little temperature-dependence because of its polysiloxane chain structure. Hence, the water, the inner phase of the emulsion, will not coagulate and the emulsion is stable in a wide temperature range. Key words: gelling agent, crosslinks, silicone oils, gels, water in oil, emulsion, dispersed particles, in- terfacial tension, network, temperature-dependence, theology, particle size, phase diagram Development of a Device to Measure Human Hair Luster Yutaka Tango, Koichi Shimmoro Fundamental Research Laboratory, KOSE Corpora- tion Evaluating human hair luster is important to de- velop hair-care products. Many methods to measure human hair luster have been proposed so far. How- ever, they have some disadvantages: some methods need to cut subject' s hair and some need a long time period. To solve these problems, a new device to measure human hair luster is developed. This new device has some excellent features: It can measure human hair luster accurately without cutting hair. The measurement is not affected by subject's hair- style and/or color. The device needs extremely short time period. The relationship between sensory data of human hair luster and the measurement has a highly correlative coefficient, so the measurement by this new device is effective for evaluating human hair luster. Key words: hair, luster, color, hairstyle, dichromatic reflection model, specular reflection, diffuse reflec- tion,gonio photometric method, direct measure- ment, small device, light emitting diode, photodi- ode Barrier Properties of a Phospholipid Polymer Hydrogel Membrane and Its Enhancement of Stratum Corneum Function Kazuko Jimbo**, Nobuhiro Ando**, Kazuhiko Jshihara*** POLA R&D Laboratories, POLA Corporation** Department of Materials Science, Graduate School of Engineering, The University of Tokyo*** The stratum corneum functions not only by holding water but also by maintaining barrier properties that control transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and prevents permeation of foreign substances. Shaku et al. reported on the double functions of poly [2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine(MPC)]. Our investigation led to discovery of an additional beneficial property of poly (MPC) that acts as a bar- rier and prevents excessive transepidermal water loss of the skin and permeation of foreign substances into the skin. We carried out experiments to deter- mine if poly (MPC) hydrogel membrane with these barrier functions would be beneficial for troubled skin with weakened baffler function. We found that the skin condition of the subjects who had skin troubles before treatment experienced significant improvement after using the experimental sample containing poly(MPC), and that the average surface area of corneocyte used to test barrier function was significantly increased. It appears that the weakened corneal baffler function was repaired by the forma- tion of a hydrogel membrane on the skin, and the stratum comeurn was restored to its healthy normal state. It is suggested that the hydrogel membrane formed by poly (MPC) functions like the corneum and acts as an effective barrier to prevent absorption of foreign substances and to regulate the transepi- dermal water loss.

ABSTRACTS 265 Key words: poly (MPC), contact angle, non- hydrophilic, non-lipophilic, hydrogel membrane, barrier function, troubled skin, transepidermal wa- ter loss, permeation, pseudo-stratum corneum A New Method for Optical Evaluation of Tex- ture Manabu Fuse, Koichi Shimmoto Fundamental Research Laboratory, KOSE Corpora- tion A goniophotometer has ordinarily been used to evaluate color and texture of subjects. However, this method gives vast effort and a long time to measure, since incident and reflective angles must be changed in many times. Moreover, since only one point of subject can be measured, it is actually impossible to obtain two-dimensional information which are needed to evaluate texture. To overcome these dis- advantages, the new and unique method to evaluate color and texture of subject simultaneously is pro- posed. By recording images with multiple optical filters and a CCD camera, reverse calculating of ob- tained strength of reflective light can realize to mea- sure spectral reflectance whole over the subject's sur- face simultaneously. A new device has been con- structed based on our theory and tested on foundation painted on a sphere. The device could measure spectral reflectance at over 16000 points on the subject's surface at once. Moreover, changing high compositions of power spectrum given in spe- cific wavelength using FFT could evaluate texture of subject. Clearly, the proposed method offers signifi- cant advantages over conventional methods. Key words: direct measurement, color, texture, spectral reflectance, optical filter, CCD camera equipment, methodology, fast Fourier transform, goniophotometric method, reverse calculation Determination of Estradiol and Ethinylestradiol in Milk Lotion and Cream Hiroshi Tokunaga, Younson Chung, Tadasi Uchino, Masanori Ando, National Institute of Health Sci- ences The detennination of estradiol and ethinylestradiol in cosmetic milk lotion and cream has already been established in the Standard Method of Analysis for Hygienic Chemists with Commentary, 1995. But the harmful reagents against the human body such as chloroform and dichloromethane are used in the analytical procedures. In order to elim- inate the harmful reagents and simultaneously protect the determination of estradiol and eth- inylestradiol from the interference of parabens in most cosmetics, we estimated a new and convenient method. The milk lotions or creams were condensed onto the water bath and then estradiol or ethinyl- estradiol in the residue was extracted with ethanol. The extract was analyzed by the high-performance liquid chromatography using the ODS column (TSKgel ODS8oTM, 4.6 x 150 mm), the mixture of water, acetonitrile and methanol (3:1:1) as a mobile phase and the fluorescence detector (excitation and emission wavelength: 290 and 310 nm). By the use of the analytical method above we made sure that estradiol and ethinylestradiol could be determined without interference of parabens as conservatives or other ingredients. Key words: estradiol, ethinylestradiol, determina- tion, milk lotion, cream, HPLC, analysis, ODS, parabens, fluorescence detector Study on the Affinity of "Fine Clustered Water" for the Skin and the Human Hair *• Shinji Tsusaki '2, Kenichi Kakino '2, Kinya Tak- agaki '2, Makoto Kaneko '2 Toshiharu Kuwahara '2, Toshimitsu Hattori '2, Kazuhiro Matsushita '3 Ayaaki Ishizaki '4, Tokiji Kawamura '5 Seven Seeds Co., Ltd., '2 Department of Medical Zoology, Saitama Medical School '3, Department of Food Sci- ence and Technology, Faculty of Agriculture, Ky- ushu University '4, Department of Applied Chem- istry, Faculty of Engineering, The University of To- kyo .5 Our most interested phenomena are how the cluster size of water influences the extent of hydration of the skin and the human hair. In this study, two water samples ("fine clustered water" prepared by Hattori's method and commercial purified water) were used. •70-NMR spectra of these water samples were examined. Line widths of the •70-NMR sig- nals were 60 and 113 Hz for "fine clustered water" and commercial purified water, respectively, imply- ing that the averaged cluster size of "fine clustered water" is smaller than that of commercial purified water. The amounts of water hydrated to the skin and the human hair were measured by gravimetric method and •H-NMR spectroscopy. The results suggest that "fine clustered water" brings about an increase in the extent of hydration of the skin and the human hair, compared with the case of commer- cial purified water. We may assume that the differ- ence in an averaged cluster size between two water samples affects the extent of the osmosis and the hydration. It may be expected that such character- istics of "fine clustered water" contribute to the bet- ter moisture effect of the skin and the human hair. Key words: hydradon, skin, human hair, "fine clus- tered water", commercial purified water, moisture effect, •70-NMR, 1H-NMR, gravimetric method, osmosis