408 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE elemental and molecular mapping of cross sections of, 275 fiber packing density of, 351 hydrafion, 265 interfiber adhesion forces in, 351 keratin, 379 luster, 264, 289 near-infrared spectroscopy, applications in, 183 oxygen radicals from photoirradiated hair, 169 penetration of hydrolyzed wheat proteins in, 193 photodegradation of, 103 physical characteristics of, 322 spectral assessment of, by photoacoustic spectroscopy, 263 straightening, 379 supercontraction of, 379 Hair care cationic polymer for hair-styling products, 263 Hair cuticle as controller of bending stiffness, 37 elution of S100A3 from, 15 surface cuticle cell, collapse and fusion of, 103 Irradiation of human hair, 169 synchroton, 73 UVA, 318, 319 Liposomes polymer-stabilized preparation of, 50 Lipstick ceramic microspheres in, 32 titanium dioxide-containing silicone polymer in, 329 Melanin profile, 205 synthesis, 227, 318 Miceliar solutions of linalool, 209 of linalool and citral, 209 Microcapsules composition of, preparation conditions, 239 production by emulsification, 239 Microemulsions of linalool, 209 Microscopy atomic force (AFM), 334 confocal laser-scanning fluorescence, 193 for investigating adsorption of polymers onto hair, 275 lateral force (LFM), 334 scanning probe (SPM), 334 Milk lotions and cream determination of estradiol and ethinylestradiol in, 265 Moisture masks characterization of, 1 color of, 1 efficacy of, 1 film-formation time of, 1 pH of, 1 power law models of, 1 safety of, 1 viscosity of, 1 water-holding capacity of, 1 N-ethanol-2(myristyl/ palmityl)-3-oxo(stearamide/arachidamide) (PC-9 s) characterization of, 253 intermolecular hydrogen bonding among, 253 safety test of, 253 synthesis of, 253 Nails (see also Fingernails Toenails) keratin network in, 367 permeation and increased temperature, 367 pH studies, 367 thumbnail vs great toenail, characteristics of, 367 Odor(s) (see also Fragrances) processing of, 141 sensitivity to, 141 stimulus, 321 variation in perception of, 141 Odorous molecules disperse systems as topical vehicles for, 209 Organic compounds balsam of Peru, 267 botanical skin anti-irritants, 338 lignan glycosides in germinated sesame seeds, 317 mineral-algal-botanical complex, antiwrinkle effects of, 27 Oxidation photochemical, effects of relative humidity and spectral energy distribution on, 103 radicals from photoirradiated human hair, 169 Pigmentation cell-based assay for screening of raw materials, 71 evaluation by multispectral image analysis, 2O5 Pigment(s) dispersion of, milling process in, 324 surface-treated, performance of, predicted by contact angle measurements, 60 Polymer(s) (see also Copolymers) barrier properties of a phospholipid hydrogel membrane, 264 cationic, for hair styling products, 263

SUBJECT INDEX 409 conditioning, 275 direct fluorescent labeling and polymer deposition, 56 distribution on fibers, 351 hybrid, 321 hydrophobically modified, interaction with surfactants, 49 interactions with surfactants, 49 JR-400, spreading on hair fibers, 351 oligosaccharaide-carrying, 206 silicone, titanium dioxide-containing, 320 as stabilizers of liposomes, 50 zirconium polymer distribution, 69 Powder cream formulation, 328 pressed, 328 Preservatives bronopol, stability of, and decomposition products of, 332 Retinol stability enhancement of, 52 trans-retinol palmitate stabilized by microencapsulation, 239 Sebum solutions, 351 and stick-slip phenomenon in hair swatches, 351 synthetic, 351 treatment of hair, 351 Skin (see also Stratum corneum) affinity of "fine clustered water" for, 206 aging, 40, 65, 206 antioxidant ingredients, effect on, 42 fibroblasts, 318 hydration, 27, 265 and mildness of disposable wipe products, 153 permeation by LG106W, 227 roughness evaluation, 27 sensitive, 267, 320 texture, measurement of, 206 transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in, 153, 253 wrinkles, facial, 27, 127, 138 Skin barrier function barrier integrity, 343 and creams containing 4% and 8% glycolic acid, 343 and PC-9 s, 253 and a phospholipid polymer hydrogel membrane, 264 repair, metabolic strategies, 65 Skin care anti-aging compounds, 317 anti-irritants, 338 antiwrinkle effects of mineral-algal-botanical complex, 27 and desquamation, 205 emollients, 330 emulsifiers, 330 and foundation makeup deterioration, 318 LG106W as a skin-whitening agent, 227 linoleic acid as a skin lightening agent, 318 milk lotions and creams, 265 oligosaccharide polymers, effects of, 206 Spectrometry secondary ion mass (SIMS), 275 Spectrophotometry diffuse reflectance, measurement of hair luster by, 289 Spectroscopy infrared, and chemical imaging of hair, 73 for investigating adsorption of polymers onto hair, 275 near-infrared, and hair research, 183 photoacoustic, spectral assessment of colored hair by, 263 Stratum comeurn (see also Skin) barrier integrity, 343 desquamation, mechanism of, 205 function, enhancement of, by a phospholipid polymer hydrogel membrane, 264 and glycolic acid skin creams, 343 morphology of, 320 thickness of, 343 Sunlight UVA exposure and wrinkles, 318 Sunscreens diethylhexyl as photostabilizer of, 46 and sunburn cell formation, 343 sun protection factor (SPF) measurements, 303 Surface science interfacial tension, 63, 209 surface tension, 63, 91,209 Surfactants dimethicone copolyol, structure-function relationships of, 91 hydrophobically modified polymers, interaction with, 49 model system, 54 oil-linalool, mixtures of, 209 TR-X-100 as promoter of uniform spreading of polymer on hair fibers, 351 Texture optical evaluation of, 265 skin texture, measurement of, 206 Toenail(s) thickness of, 367 water permeation parameters of, 367